Jag ifs questions

Hey guys...just curious will a 89 xj6 be a good donor car for front end and rear end swap for a 1953-56 f100???? Ive read into it a little and see that most people have done a 79-86 jag....any info is appreciated

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!

 

I think the 89s are a bit wider. Don't quote me though
Just measure twice and cut once

 

If it was an XJ12, the little sports car you would be in like flynn. They kept for the most part the same suspension through '95 or so. But in the XJ6 as stated above you are better off looking for the '86 and earlier stuff.

 

NO!!!!

The XJ40 (1987 up) are NOT what you want. The rear ends are a bag of trouble. Friend of mine bought one new, and after 4 new diffs in 46k miles under factory warranty, when the fifth failed he sold the car and bought a Beemer. 1986 and earlier XJ6/12 or up to 1996 end of production XJS. 1994 model thru end of productin XJS had outboard brake IRS - a major improvement on serviceability and accessibility. Als many 1979-86 XJ6?12s had 2.88 ratio. You probably want to avoid these and look for the 3.54 Powrlok (posi).

Widths: IFS 59" hub to hub, IRS 61 3/4" hub to hub....

 

Thanks for posting that info Weasel. I've been hunting for it for a while.

 

Sorry, your dead right Weasle, I meant XJS not XJ12.

 

so its a no go on the 89 xj6?

 

I had a Jag suspension tech thread on here until it got closed for being non traditional - I seem to recall a lot of Jag suspension in the 1960s commencing around 1964. I had only posted the tip of the iceberg from my Jag resources, factory archives, exploded diagrams etc - all useful stuff that was meant to help the community. All appeals from a number of hambers to the mods to reopen it fell on deaf ears. I don't know if it is still searchable but the title was "Pussyfoot - it's a Jag Bag for me" If it is still around use the search feature as it should give you a lot of invaluable information....

 

Correctamundo....

 

hey thank you guys for all the help. I found your thread

 

Jag suspension non-traditional ???? Very traditional in my book - thousands of resto-rods could not be wrong..........

 

Never quite figured out the 'why' part of the delete... I had already subscribed to the thread so hopefully it doesn't get removed from the archives.

.

 

Thats why it would be nice to have split forums so the trad only hot rod guys would not get upset by kustoms threads a lot of kustoms cars being built now are restro mods without all the billet and huge wheels.

Not every thing needs a stright axle and wide whites.

Jake

 

Re the deleted thread.
It was was closed not deleted as some have mentioned.
It's still available here.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=744795&highlight=pussyfoot

You just can't add to it, so it's not lost/deleted.

 

I am not trying to derail this thread but merely to point out that I had posted some (but a fraction of what I have archived) information that might give answers and help you make an informed decision and figure out if Jag suspension - both IFS and IRS - will work for you. It gives you the information on hub to hub width, how to get the best brakes - the inboard solid rotors of the IRS are not the best - a PITA to work on if you do not have a hoist. The information is still there if you care to check it out. I am not inclined to open up a new thread on the subject and risk having it closed again.

I have said it before but it bears repeating. If you want the best riding best handling suspension with all the correct anti dive and anti squat geometry built in for a fraction of the price of a new aftermarket Pinto/Mustang II nothing beats a Jag. You should be able to pick up the whole shebang: front and rear 4 wheel disc brakes, power steering for well under a grand and maybe half of that or less - just be sure to check the diff ratio, check for a Powrlok (posi) many of them have it, and pick up the driveshaft too - the Jag runs a flange from the diff to which the driveshaft is bolted. Everything is mounted to a subframe or cross member which you weld into your existing frame and you're done. You'll need either to fabricate or buy a cross member for the IRS - Snow White Ltd. - www.snowwhiteltd.com is my preferred choice. Given you have everything you need and you have everything prepped you can have both front and rear installed in a weekend....

Snow White Jag IRS cross member:

 

Thanks for all the info to weasel and everyone else. I just picked up a Jag IFS to put in my 59 chevy truck. Looks like it will be snug but with a little trimming it should fit.

 

Wouldjabelieve- I just bought a pretty clean complete '75 XJ6 from the original owners, something went wrong with it years ago so it wouldn't start and he never got it fixed, been parked inside ever since. Now is the dilema-do I put it all in the '52 F1, or cut the early Heidt's MII setup out of the '40 pickup and go that way. Kinda leaning towards the '40, as one of the cabs has the firewall and floor already trimmed out, and I can't wait to try and fire up the Jag six and see how it runs- I think you see where I'm going with this
Those nice Jag wheels are even starting to look good to me- could always put some wider hoops on those centers...

 

86 and earlier sedans have round headlights. Easy way to ID them. I put a 86 XJ6 IFS and IRS into my 52 GMC pickup project. Bought the whole donor car for $500. You should be able to find similar, seems to be a lot of Jag with broken or dead engines.

The V-12 versions have limited slip diff, whereas the 6 cyl are mostly open diff. Good score if you can find a V-12 donor.

 

How much is that jewel? I don't see any prices listed.

 

Just picked up a complete 94 XJS rearend 3:54 with power loc starting to stock pile a drive train now just got to get the 57-59 F-1 put it in.

 

Hate to burst your bubble...but... the 1994 Power lock is "low bias" and it acts more like an open diff under any sort of power. Prior to 1993 the Jag powerloks were high bias and had a more slip limiting setup. The good new is you can drop in an aubur limited slip. That's what I did. I figured this all out when I removed an late 70's 3:31 for a 1994 3.54 and ended up with more wheel spin. I thought the diff was worn out until I came across a Jaguar TSB that detailed the low bias limited slip design change was made to improve smoothness.

 

$315 I think for the mounting kit....