Got this '54 here, used to be a fine one I take it. Just fired it up for the first time in, oh, 20 years. It has a '66 396 that uses a Ford oil filter. I put a Wix 51515 on it. Ran a few seconds, oil on the ground, pushed the o-ring out of the filter. No problemo, tightened the filter down harder, blew the filter apart, just after I saw the oil gauge peg and then drop to zero. I used to know this stuff, isn't there a bypass spring somewhere?
yeah there should be a bypass valve, usually on the side of the oil pump. i had one that used to do that regularly, drop a rev when cold and bang! goes the filter.
Need to gauge it up and check the oil pressure If it is to high then check the relief and make sure it is not hung BUT DON'T STRETCH SPRING IF it starts low and starts to build higher and higher some thing is plugged good luck
Probably the pressure relief valve is gummed up with old sludge and varnish. If you can take it out and wash it off with brake clean or carb cleaner it should be good as new.
Did you run the car 20 years ago??? Early 396's took a canister and most were converted to use a standard Chevy pattern filter.... Ya sure it's got the proper filter?
No, I recently got the car. I bought a Chevy spin on, threads too large. Took it back, they said probably a canister engine converted to Ford filter and gave me that. Went right on. Checked JEGs, they sell two spin on conversions for BBC, one uses Chev filter, the other Ford. The bypass is in the pump, right?
I had a 292 Ford do that when I was in High School It turned out to be the relief valve in the oil pump had stuck shut .it would peg a 100 pound oil guage while cranking then blow the filter off at the seam as soon as it started took the oil pump apart and found the problem. the previous owner had added an oil stop leak and the next day it started blowing filters Mike
You've got a relief valve problem. Well I think you do. Like stated earlier bet the valve is stuck. There is no doubt there is to much oil pressure. It takes a couple hundred psi to blow a filter like that.
I would reccomend some B&G 109 to clean it out but you have to be able to run it for 20 minutes or so. Dont sound like thats possible though, hope the pan isnt to hard to get off so you can get to it easy. Rod
As above relief valve problem (in the pump),and a lot of the early adapters from canister to spin on used Ford filters.
Use a Fram HiPo filter. Expensive but it is good to 110 lbs. After a bit it should pop the check valve which I assume is stuck.
That pressure puts a huge amount of torque load on the cam and distributed gears not to mention risking twisting the drive shaft in two. I would not risk the damage you might do including the pump. They are just now made for that much load and pressure.
Hmmmmm..... Now if this was a Fram filter, there'd be people lining up to get their "Fram sucks" posts in. You Fram bashers need to pay attention here!!!
I had the same exact problem with my 454. Tried all sorts of filters, no luck. Relief valve problem. I changed the oil pump, problem solved.
I wouldn't play games, take the pan down and either take the pump apart, check the gears, and cover for wear, and free up the check valve if it's not to bad,or put a new pump in it if for some reason it freed up now who's to say it won't stick down the road at the most inconenient time.You may have heard of Murphy.
Had this happen on my flathead. Of course the temperature was about 10 degrees and the oil was 50 wt. Blew two Fram filters apart. Searched the internet on oil filter specs and found out which ones had the highest bursting rate. No problems since the change over.
My Model A used to do this, I switched to a K&N filter. It just seemed like the gasket was contained better.
Thanks for the replies fellas. Now that I think back, when I was priming it with a drill (no pressure gauge at the time) it got super hard, then eased up and I heard a gurgling sound from down below. I betcha that was the relief valve opening and sending oil back into the sump. It's probably sticky and does work once in awhile, or when pressure gets high enough. I should pull the pan..... ain't hot rodding fun!
i think most everyone is right on with their opinions. but I'll throw in this (since you don't know how it's been built)-it sounds like this happened before the engine was warmed up-we are all assuming that there is a cold oil bypass valve in there, but what if it's been deleted? I am not running them in my Car-you might want to verify this, as it could do this very thing-
What is wrong with just installing either a stock can filter on it or a newer GM spin-on adapter and be done with it?? Personally, I like the can because I have to clean it out at each oil change and when I do, I know what's going on in my engine. pdq67
As stated, the relief valve is not opening. You can remove the pump and clean it, but given the marginal cost of a new pump ($15-25) you are better off just replacing the pump. If you keep trying to start the engine the way it is you risk blowing a seal and then you will have some work.
Had a big block mopar do that - I was leaning over it setting the timing when it exploded - good thing the oil was just warm and not hot! It was the relief valve stuck - put another pump on and it was all good.
If you run it with that much pressure you will run the risk of spinning a bearing if not already done! Fix or replace the oil pump, way cheaper.
As noted in this post, something is sludged up and not releasing. Internal restriction from gum sitting so long. Pull the pan, pull the pump, and throw a 40-60 dollar pump on that engine. This way you know you have a new pump (which can never be a bad thing). I would rather pay 60 bucks in parts (also pick up an SW pressure gauge no electric sending unit BS) and two or three hours in labor, inspection and replacement time, than trying to rebuild a true 66 big block. Its not worth spinning a bearing, running dry in a spot for a minute, etc. Man, I wish I had that motor. Love me some BBC. Nothing like an engine that will shake parts off the shelves in the garage when fired with open headers (personal experience).
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