I am pulling my 235 Chevy motor from my 1954 Chevy Bel Air. I did a compression test and a coolant test before I pulled the motor. Based on the results I didn't bother to do a leak down test. At this stage the motor is pulled apart enough that I can't run more tests. I want to share the results of the test with the forum to get some feedback. Based on the results I don't plan to rebuild the engine. Curious what others think. Keep in mind that at some point I'll probably swap out the 235 for a 350 SBC and 700R4 so I'm trying to avoid putting much money into the motor. Also, I am OK with cars but engine rebuilds are something I would pay someone else to do. So.... Here are the results of the dry compression test. 1 - 95 2 - 100 3 - 110 4 - 100 5 - 110 6 - 110 Wet compression test results. 1 - 115 2 - 120 3 - 120 4 - 120 5 - 130 6 - 125 Spec says that compression should be 135 Engine ran good before I started to pull it. Small amount of white smoke on startup. Spark plugs look OK. Top half of engine was rebuilt 100 miles before I started to pull the engine. Unknown miles on bottom half of engine but based on a visual inspection from my mechanic the cylinder walls looked good. I did a coolant test and it didn't show any gas escaping into the coolant. I'm feeling like I can skip the rebuild on the lower half of my engine and run it like it is. Anyone think I'll regret this choice?
Keep running it until it scatters, and don't waste money rebuilding it. I picked my running 235 up for $100, just get another one and run it until it blows as well.
I just went thru the top of a 235, head was cracked, so we got a good head went thru it and put it on, now I'm kicking myself for not putting rings, the cylinders looked great so I left it alone, now its sucking some oil. If you have the head off already,it sounds like you do, then put a set of rings in, you'll be happier later.
Run it and save the dough. The compression on each cylinder is not way too much different from each other. These engines will run for ever as long as it has oil in the crankcase .
Run the 235. sbc and autos are for people with one leg and no imagination. A tripple carb 235 will look way cooler than a sbc when you open that hood, aand built right it should be as dependable.
Rings, rod shells and a valve job will give you an engine that will run for years. Like Dane and Aussie said. I wish I still had the original 235 for my '54 Bel Aire HT. A cam and dual carb/dual exhaust is cheaper than a 350, and much cooler.
So I pulled the engine and cleaned all the gunk off. Engine is ready to be media blasted and painted. Found a big long crack running lengthwise along the bottom of the block just an inch above the oil pan. It was leaking coolant out of the crack. Glad I pulled the engine and found the crack. I'll have it welded up and block should be good for a few more years.
Probably froze up one winter. Those sometimes close up nicely with an application of a block-saver product and it runs forever. Welding up the crack is way more involved. Bob
I will get pooped on for this, but some block sealer on the inside and JB-Weld on the outside, and you are done.
Since you have the engine apart, is there any evidence that coolant might be anywhere else it doesn't belong (ie in the oil pan)? A careful inspection is in order. That might not be the only crack in that old block.
Good advice, although the project to save the block may spiral out of control fast. I would be taking the bare block to the local machine shop to have it cleaned and inspected, let them make the call. Bob
I did decide to go ahead and try the JB weld trick. See http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=839872 Hope it works. Thanks for all the feedback everyone.
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