any one ever repair an engine block

thanks gashog,i had a similar problem with a transmission on an import and jb weld fixed it,but that was aluminum,

 

Glad to help. I have a Ford service manual that outlines JB weld/PC7 repairs for non load bearing block repairs. I think the key is surface prep/roughening & cleaning and following manufacturer recommendations on thickness and curing.

 

That's wild I have the one just like that only on the other side I believe, I have to check. What I did was drill and tap it ( my block was apart) and put a 1/4 inch pipe plug in. What I think happened is someone had oil in the bolt hole while assembling it and ran the bolt in, because a long time ago I was putting a smallblock together and I was running a main cap (center) bolt in with a ratchet but spinning quickly, and I heard a pop, went crazy looking to see what happened and when I finally saw it it had blown a piece out just like that, but it didn't go anywhere so it didn't matter.

 

Hi, we build flatheads and a lot of other old nostalgia engines for a living so we deal with a lot of cracks. There is a company we use there product and it is called "stitch and lock". It is a permanent metal on metal threaded pinning process and can be made to be literally invisible. It does not have any puttys or glues etc. It is a system though that requires special taps and pins. It is heavy industrial grade system and we have used it to fix a 409 with an 11 inch freeze crack on one side and a 13 inch one on the opposite side and it is invisible and all metal. Might check it out. We have used the system on hundreds of various cracks and blowouts. Good luck.

 

I second Pink-44's option on the locking pin system. Two friends have 440 Mopar blocks and both cracked at the freeze plugs vertically. They checked with some local performance engine builders and they use the SEAL-LOCK method on their blocks with good results. They bought a kit from SEAL-LOCK, I believe out of Michigan, and did the repairs themselves. Seems the most critical part is not breaking one of the special tapered taps as they are pricey. After breaking one, the started using a regular tap to start the process and then switched to the taper tap as soon as the regular tap got started and this seemed to help a lot. No more broken pricey taps. I believe SEAL-LOCK has a video on their website showing the process. One of the guys has driven his car on a couple of 1000 miles trips and everything seems to be fine. If you google SEAL-LOCK you should get the info. Good luck.

 

just watch a video from http://www.youtube.com/user/LOCKNSTITCH?feature=watch on the lock and stitch process,very interesting

 

i used moroso sealer on an external cracked head.it slowed the leak,but thats it.you could have a shop braze repair the block.