I'm in the middle of a '50 Chevy gasser build and looking to build a budget 327/350 engine to run with for the summer. I have an abundance of engine parts and mostly everything needed to put this thing together is in my garage somewhere. Either way all heads are in the same condition and need valve stem seals. All the blocks need cleanups and rebuilds. I'm just having trouble in my head figuring out what to build to keep this car looking like it should and getting as much power as possible out of it. My main concern is which block and which set of heads to use. Here's what I have in the shop: '68 327 complete full rotating assembly (2) good 010 350 blocks full rotating assembly complete 350 out of a '91 9C1 police package cop car. (great for nothing) but could use the short block, it does have the hole on the side for a machanical fuel pump. '68 327 / "290" heads 1.72 valves and 68cc plenty of "882" heads, best ones have 1.72 valves 76cc Good flowing set of "081" 1.84 valve 58cc heads but they are center bolts So.. the 327 is correct for the time period but not great heads and low displacement engine. The center bolt heads will look like ass but will give best hp and tq by building a high comp engine. Do I use them and buy the adapters to run perimeter valve covers and bolt to the top of one of the 010 blocks? Or 327 heads on top of one of the 010 blocks?
Ya, I realize they will look the same whether a 327 or 350 block. I am leaning toward the 010 block, but why not the block out of the 9c1? Its got 100k but virgin and stock still. Everything I have built in the past has been for the stock car and had to stick to rules. This one is no rules but I want it to look like it should and run with a push.
Hunt some performance heads down for the 327. I didn't pay much attention but summit has iron heads for 600 ish each. Trade some stuff around .
Take your best 350 block and load it with the 327 parts. Then take the 1.72 68CC heads and have them cut for 1.94 valves and skip happily down the road with a great 327. Then throw the rest of that stuff on the classifieds and put gas in your tank. Price it to sell not keep. Good luck, Tim
I know "Budget build" is relative to who's budget. But my budget for the full engine is about $1500- $2000. High performance heads for the 327 are $1200 I'm not looking for a crazy race engine but hoping for mid 300+hp range with it using the parts I have available.
Do any of the 350 blocks have 4 bolt mains? I'd build a high reving 327 and have those "290" ported heads cut for 1.94 valves. On second thought do the above to the "081" heads and buy the adapters.
No because none of the 327 blocks were 4 bolt mains. Another thought is cut the "081" heads for 1.94 valves and buy the adapters for the old style valve covers and put them on the '91 350 cop car engine.Top it off with a set of finned valve covers and a cool induction system like a tunnel ram or GMC 671 blower and nobody will notice the block and heads are'nt period correct.
I actually have a set of old Cal Custom fins in the shop ready for the engine. Probably should have mentioned that.
nothing wrong with two bolt mains---better than factory four bolt if you stud them---if you do use a four bolt make sure you have the main webs checked for cracks---use as many forged parts as you can afford...
I am trying to build this out of what I already have available, so I will be using one of the two bolt blocks. Does anyone have a pic of the adapter plates installed on an engine? Googled it but coming up with nothing.
Trust me I know budget goals Period correct goals Performance goals Build out of junk goals So these HP 327 heads are $1200 & ready to roll ? Vs. Parts and labor on old heads. It won't be 1200 but it won't be free Reconditioning, cut, bigger new valves , springs, porting and you'll still be stuck with huge combustion chambers. These cambers might not be bad if you are going with domed pistons to up your compression. So what's the real cost of them? 1200 minus your machine shop quote. And minus whatever you can peddle or trade your other heads for. And minus cost difference between domed and flat tops. And are those 1200 heads the Mac daddy end all be all best for your goals sans budget ? The adapters for the center bolt covers is a great option if period correct goal is an illusion type goal that can be fuzzy.
Well, too bad your 327 is the larger main variety, you could offset grind the 350 crank to the early connecting rods, and bore the block out for 365 or 370cid. otherwise, keep one good block (since they're all large mains), sell the other parts and buy a 383 stroker kit. you'll still need heads tho...and you probably don't want your centerbolt valvecovers to fake an early Olds... I still say, tho, go stroker and save up for good heads to eventually put on the engine.
A small block is a small block no matter how you dress it up. I'd take one of the 010 blocks, find a 400 crank to throw in it, cut the 68cc heads for some 2.02/1.60 valves, and get a nice roller cam setup to match your vehicle weight / trans / desired sound. Throw a period correct induction setup and valve covers on it, and no one will know that it's a fire-breathing stroker and not a 283 or 327. 2-bolt mains will hold up fine to around 400hp, as long as no power adders are involved. I think you could build a healthy 350 horse engine with the parts you have and stay within your budget.
Way overthinking it. I'll give you advise on a build if you send me the large journal 327 rotating assembly.
Build one of the 350 as a 350, it will make more torque which is what you need to get your car moving. Cylinder heads are going to determine how well your engine is going to run. You can buy a set of steel aftermarket heads for $620 -$750 pair ready to bolt on that will flow better than any head you currently have. By the time you have new guides installed, cut for bigger valves, valve job, hardened seats (if needed), plus buying your new valves and springs, seals and retainers you will have close to the amount of the new heads and still have an old poorly flowing set of heads. Sell most of what you have to help pay for for the new.
Just cover the center valve cover bolts with fake plug wires and tell people it's a rare factory/experimental "hemi" SBC.
So: -Clean up and clearance 010 Block with $800 budget 383 Kit -Cut 290 heads for 2.02/1.6 $200 or so? -Valves and seals $200 -Ditch stock intake and swap meet something $100 -Misc Gaskets etc. $400 -Cam/ Lifters $300 $2000 or so isn't bad
That's what I would do... Head swap later (as budget allows) is easy and can be done in-frame... not so easy to go back and add extra cubes later.
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