Still plugging away at it: the drivers side inner fender well/rear wheel well had some rust damage (the most on the car) and needed repairs. We were able to repair all of it by hand with out the useof any major metal working tools. The rear wheel wheel isn't completely perfect because the one patch that it needed was right on the bead. We didn't want to buy an entire new panel justto cut out that one piece and use it; would've been throwing money out the window. The piece was made by hand and welded in. Here are a few progress pictures: All fixed: Tialand error fixing this spot (What a PITA!!) Next step in theprocess is attaching the new rear subrails. Does anyone have any pictures of theirs, attaching them, etc?
Does anyone have any advice and/or photos of their steering set-ups in their 32 frames with the Nailhead motor? Need some help with brainstorming. It's going to be a tight fit and want to make sure it's right. Thank You!
We don't want to go cowl steering; too expensive for our budget. We want to be able to fit it in where it's supposed to go but have no clue on where to start. Any ideas/brainstorming would be greatly appreciated
There are lots of ways to do cowl steering for cheap, I know theres a few threads on here using common boxes. Look in the tech archives.
I havent had the time to do a lot of research but wouldn't it require a lot of work to install cowl steering? Ill go on a hunt for those DIY threads.
Thank You! Body will be coming off the frame soon to start finishing that up. The rear subrails are tacked in right now, floors will be finished when the body goes on the frame for the final fit. We've decided to just go for it and use the 425 Nailhead & trans that had the 2 rusty cylinders. Going to send it out soon to get that fixed up while we use the running 401 for mock-up.
Quick Update on the build please feel free to share your thoughts on the posts below; could use some advice. Please click on the photos to make larger; having issues with photobucket today Lots of work has been done lately including the mini channel on the body to make it sit properly on the frame. Took only an hour to do it and now we can't even notice that it was done. I was going to take a picture of the work but decided you probably couldn't tell something was done to it. The firewall has been a work in progress. Lots of fabricating and time but it's coming together. Final welds will be made after we can garner some help to put the body back on the frame to test fit around the Nailhead valve covers. It's coming along nicely though; pretty pleased with it! The floors are going to be left as one of the final things to do. We need to replace the wood behind the visor on the body; it has rotted in the corners. Not sure how we are going to do that yet; looks like someone tack welded the visor the car. That is the only piece of original wood in the body that will need replacing. That is not high on the priority list right now Currently working on the front end. We got the 45 fin buick drums for free with a Riviera we bought for the 401 Nailhead (Running and driving). We got ahold of early (but later than the model A) Ford front axle in excellent condition. Not sure of the year of it but maybe you can identify the backing plates in the photo below. The drums will need to be machined and we'll have to do more research on what brakes to use, etc As for the rear spring; its a PAIN IN THE ASS. Still fighting it to this day. We moved the spring brackets farther out which gave more angle to the shackles like we wanted, but it's still not enough (we think). View the photo and let me know what you think. We have run out of room to move the spring brackets any farther out. Not sure what to do at this point. Thinking about switching to coils for the rear suspension because we don't want the car to ride like a battle wagon. This is how it sits without the body. The shackles are just about 2cm from touching the backing plate to the rear brakes. Let me know what you think:
You have a little more angle to your shackles that ours. Was hoping to have that much angle ^^. Your spring seems to have a high arch to it and its not as wide/long as the one we have. Maybe we need to find another spring thats not as long and would provide more angle to the shackles.. Look how close to the axle the frame is sitting in the photo right now. Was figuring the spring would have more "spring" to it??
The firewall is almost complete. Have some filling to do around the edges of the recessed piece but we're thrilled with it. We wanted this car to retain some of its originality. The body was a surivor and just about rot free. It was as close to original as you could probably find. Since we had to cut up the firewall to make room for the Nailhead; we kept the original metal that was cut from the firewall. It was then cut to fit the new shape of the firewall and used to complete the now recessed firewall. Before making any final welds, we put the body back on the frame and made sure that there was adequate room around the Nailhead's distributor cap. The original blister in the firewall leaves adequate room for the distributor cap with room to spare. The welds will be cleaned up and smoothed out and in the end; it will be clean and pretty and smooooth. Some might think this looks quirky but we think that it looks as if it was this way right from the factory. We cut out a large chunk of original steel to cut the firewall and wanted to recycle it back in to the car and I have to say, I think the body has kept its originality this way; it looks really good when the body is on the frame; unfortunately I dont have a photo of it sitting on the frame...yet so you will have to settle with these shots: What do you think>?
An update from myself. I haven't posted in awhile. I have been working religiously on the build. I'm going to use the 425 Nailhead. I hemmed and hawed over it but I've decided to have the rusty cylinders sleeved. I have had other's tell me to run the engine as-is but I want to be free to drive it far: problem-free. I'm using the running 401 for mock-up stages right now and when the 425 is finished; I'll just sell the 401. I'm still deciding where to send the 425 for engine work-if you know of a good shop in the CT area. The chassis is almost a roller. I was able to finish putting the front end together and getting the spring hung right. Unfortunately after it was all said and done: I realize that I am missing leafs out of my spring . It does sit nice as-is though: My project over the weekend was getting the steering set-up. I am going to run a vega box because it will fit nice next to the nailhead without causing any grief. I have yet to determine what I am going to use for a steering column or steering wheel. I have also been working hard on the firewall: I decided to recess the original metal that I cut from the firewall instead of using a flat piece of pre-cut new metal. I have a lot of cleaning up to do on the welds (which is trying my patience) but it's coming along and I think it gives it some character After I get those welds smoothed down; My plan is to fill most of the original holes in the firewall. I have not determined what I am going to do about the front spring. I guess I will have to think on it or just go out and buy a new front spring.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a steering column to use? I have a 50's Jeep straight shaft steering column that I am going to use to mock-up and get the vega box where it should be but i am not sure where to go for the final column. Also deciding on a steering wheel.
Spent Saturday night measuring and putting in the Pontiac tailights. We had to replace the original sheet metal here because of rot along the lower edge. It was cheaper and less time consuming to just replace it. The original seat is back in the car with a wood floor pan for the moment. Currently have an old Willy's Jeep steering column and wheel in it for mock-up for the vega box. The mount for the Vega Box was made yesterday and it should be ready to be mounted in the next day or so. Still looking for the right column and wheel for it. The rear spring is likely going to be re-arched to give us the angle on the shackle that we need and the appropriate ride-height.
Column can be made from exh pipe and 2 flanged bearings from hardware store, add a aftermarket turn signal switch, and perhaps the Jeep inner shaft....or just use a early floor shifted pickup column like from a mid 60s chevy. (Around 63 to 72 floor shift look similar, big truck would work also.) Then you will have a fairly clean simple column with a chevy spline, and a built-in TS switch, if that is what you want. Old style would be a Ford column with steering-lock & drop bracket from 32 to late 40s . I used a 42-48 Ford column& drop, with a 65 chevy pickup inner shaft, so I could get the chevy spline for a 40s chev wheel Your front bones look like they might hit the tires on full turns. Have you tested that yet, to see if the orig Ford spindle stops are close to touching, before the tire rubs? It's looking real good... I'll have to stop by on my first road test
Thank You! The spindle arms were rubbing hard on the axle but Joey spent the time to bend them to prevent any rubbing because it was pretty ugly. I'm not sure about the tires; he's been turning them and working with them and I believe they do not touch. But I will try it tonight just to make sure . He is trying to get the steering box in so that he can attach everything properly and know how its going to steer. Thanks for the steering help! The TS switch column idea sounds great; I know he really wants the switch on the column. We took the decklid off of the car last night. Getting ready to finished the rear floors while we wait on the machine work for the rest of the steering parts. Slowly motoring along on it; it would nice to be able to drive it this summer!! Stop in anytime, we are working on it almost everynight
Started the floor pans last night. I wish I could post the video here off of my phone that shows how Joey decided to tackle this task. He placed it over a propane tank on the floor and rolled it until it had the correct arch to it. We used clamps and good old fashioned muscle to get the correct lip on the back edge. It's just about there and then we can put cross members in and final-assembly on the rear floor
Finally garned up the courage to whack the roof off of it! The A is now chopped! Was originally planning on 3.5 inches but decided to cut back and only go with 3. The 3 inches looks great and still leaves adequate enough headroom and visibility out the front. Spent all day Sunday measuring and measuring some more, and measuring again . Used tape to create a good visual line to cut against. Worked out really handy. When the roof was put back on the car, it fits really well, like we never even cut 3 inches out of it. Did 99% of the cuts with a sawzall. Welding the lid back on has started, sorry I dont have any photos of that yet.
the build has been sitting dormant since spring. Summer is such a busy time of year; too much going on. We're back to it now! Rear suspension has been fixed, getting ready to finish-weld everything for the frame. Preparing to finish the steering, etc. Big plans to get a lot done this fall/winter!
I am sure you have the spindles identified by now but did not see a post telling you they are 37-41 Ford. 37-41 have a round base and 42-48 Ford have a near square base. The picture looks like they are round. Also didn't see anything on breaks. I have 37-41 spindles and put Speedway Motors disc kit with 11" rotor and pre-78 GM caliper. Only issue with this setup is you have to counter bore the back side of the bearing adaptor to 1.600" 3/16" deep and champher the ID to allow for the stock spindle radius. This is necessary to get the castle nut screwed on enough to insert the cotter key. All looks good and helpful to me as I need a new floor as well as firewall in my 31A Tudor. BC31A
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