home made tools and equipment...

I don't collect axles, but I do like your idea. I'll probably see if I can mount my redneck rig on a HF moving dolly for the times that I will be moving an axle around inside the shop on the concrete. On rough ground like a salvage yard or gravel drive I'll use the two wheeler.

 

I really like this. It's a pain to move a rear end on a plain 2 wheel dolly.

 

great ideas..subscribed

 

I have a lot of rear ends but I still looking for that one in onemintcaddy,s avatar

 

You and me both.

 

I thought that a Quickchange was the ultimate. Butt I was mistaken!

 

Car dollys. My dad & I made these out of old disk harrows about 25 years ago. Steel wheels. They've been borrowed and had many cars on them and no issues yet.

 

Great idea there.

A little off-topic, but I think that's the same exact axle I'm using in my 56 pickup.

 

This is my home made crane. Now that I'm old and wornout I needed some help lifting heavy items in my shop. This will life a SBC into a pickup bed. Works greats

 

Now Thats The Cats Ass Hay! I'm going to go cut the pipes off the base saying Ass Hols Garage and make some dollys now.

Man That's Cool.

 

What do us old farts do with 44 pound dumb bells when we no longer can lift them We make stand bases out of them

 

rotisserie for truck tube steps,how to manage these things for painting.

 

cool idea i'm going to be restor
ing my 57 chevy next year i wonder if something like this would work or would the bel air be to heavy.

 

bandsaw save,had to cut a piece of rectangle -the other way.

 

this would work great but on the Hummer H3 they bolt up in the middle i wish i had took a picture of the stand i made to hang them on to repaint the set i done.

 

gonna need something a little bigger,lots of awesome car sized versions on this thread.

 

The simple things.

If you would have seen me last night holding a piece of tubing and trying to cut it you would all think I'm an idiot. (Now you do)

 

http://www.homemadetools.net/categories
rustyoldmodels go here and look at rotisseries

 

See here for a link:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8581173#post8581173

If you want some inexpensive dimple dies, you might already have the tools you need. I realized I did. Don't ask me how this came to mind, but here is the idea.

Look at the next few postings to see all of the pictures.

I used a large 3/4-inch-drive socket from a set I got from Harbor Freight as the male die. Here's the HF 3/4" socket set. $60 on sale, but $48 with the 20% off coupon found in the newspaper and car magazines. See the picture of the Harbor Freight knockout punches. $25 on sale, but less with a coupon.

I used the female die from a set of metal knockout hole punches used by electricians. I had both the hydraulic set ($80 on sale from Harbor Freight) as well at the manual set, pictured in a post, below. The hydraulic set is quick and easy if you want to do a lot of them, but a manual punch is fine for just a few.

The great thing about this method is that you don't have to do it in a large shop press. Some pieces are too large. I used light-gauge sheet metal, but I imagine that the dimple could be made in at least 18-gauge.

Here is the method I used to do easy dimples in sheet metal. The hole to the left in the picture is the first test hole that I made just to make sure it worked.

See the picture for the size of the punches I used. The small die is for cutting the hole, and the larger die is for the dimple. I used a step drill for the bolt or shank that holds the male and female dies together. To punch a hole, if you are not familiar with these punches, go by the directions in the set you have.

I inserted the bolt through the hole in the sheet metal and assembled the two dies, one on each side. Then I cranked down the bolt until the hole was punched.

You can see the manner in which I assembled the punch die set to make the dimple. I used a large socket as the male die.

For the dimple, I used the a slightly larger female punch die than the die that I used to cut the hole. I used a socket with an angled shoulder that just fit inside the larger female die, but too large to fit through the hole in the sheet metal.

To hold the assembly together on the punch die bolt/shank, I used a small male die as a retaining nut that fit into the large socket since it is threaded and fit the threads in the punch shank. In the picture, you can't see the small male die because it is inside of the socket, threaded on the bolt/shank.

The last picture shows how the socket's angled shoulder fit the dimple.

For other sized holes, there are several more combinations of dies and sockets that will work. All you have to do is experiment.

Hope this helps someone. Thanks to all who post their ideas for all of the great inspiration that you have given me.

 

Here are more pictures of the dimple dies.

 

(Just learning how to upload pictures.)


More pictures:

 

Last pictures of how to do simple dimple dies:

 

I have this little wooden box that I use to keep small allen wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. handy. No matter how neatly I put things away, as soon as I would move the box everything would jumble.

Then I had a brainstorm. I grabbed a couple of those calendar magnets that seem to multiply on the shop refrigerator. Put them in the box upside down, and they provided just enough magnetism to hold things in place.

I also keep some really small screws in that box (eyeglass screws, like that) and now they stay in place where I can easily get them.

 

Best thread for five years straight.

 

I have been working on coverting my horizontal band saw to virtical saw. I used an old table saw table and was able to salvage the tilt option. Have working on the blade speed now I think it needs to be faster.

 

If you are converting a wood saw to cut metal, it needs to be slower.

 

Slower

 

I restore antique Ducati Motorcycles, and in doing so, I sometimes Hand-rewind Magnetos and alternators for higher output-

In order to test these to make sure they work properly, you need and engine with a spinning crank to do so. First step is to press apart the crankshaft and remove the connecting rod and bearing and press the crank back together using a suitable size weight in place of the rod so i doesn't shake itself apart! then using a set of "donor crankcases", I removed the normally open bearings and pressed in a set of sealed ones for the crank to run in, oil free.
Next was making a way to spin the crank to test the output of the magneto under "running conditions", this was done with a pulley on the end of the crank that normally would have driven the oil pump, and an old GE washing machine motor with a plate bolted where the Cylinder would normally go and an old door hinge to manually engage the belt drive!
Just for fun I modded a timing cover so I could run an centrifugal advance unit and points and I attached a coil and "test" spark plugs.
I was able to get DOUBLE the output of a stock Magneto, and after experimenting with thinner and thicker gauge wire, with more or less wraps than stock- also eventually developed a 12v upgrade unit from the weak-assed 6v Italian electrics, all with my home made test jig-

 

"Home made" Silent airbrush compressor using a Monkey-Wards fridge freon compressor and a Harbor Freight air tank with extra bungs welded in-

I cut off the normal handle on the top (side) and turned the tank on end and welded new "feet" to the bottom and angle iron mounts for the "pump"
Finished off with some Appliance Epoxy white Rattle cans from Home Depot!
works GREAT for over 5yrs now runs quiet, and allows me to use airbrush indoors-

 

Simply genius...