How would you clean it up? Blast or strip

Looking at my pics Would you have it sand blasted? Experianced Blaster he can use sand or soda. Or chemical strip and sand with a D.A. Thanks in advanced for looking

 

soda gets my vote... i've heard mixed results from chem dipping...

 

Soda won't remove the rust. Sand will.

 

For what you have, dipping is a very viable option. Where it gets 'iffy' is with whole cars because the 'dip' gets into EVERY nook and cranny and is near impossible to remove. Also, when there are many many layers of paint and or filler, it takes a LONG time to soak, (weeks). But for pieces that are unbolted like that, you may enjoy the cleanliness it leaves without ANY chance of warping the metal

 

I have no idea where I can get one dipped near me I'll have to do some more research.

 

I prefer sandblasting for complete removal of rust and expose the swiss cheese . It takes a trained hand to not warp the larger pieces, but most experienced shops can do it.

 

there is a place in chicago, and i BELIEVE another in St. Louis...

 

I have a love/hate relation with sandblasting but if you want it clean there is no way to do it any better than sand IMHO! HRP

 

i say soda blast, worked well for me!

 

DIY strip those since you have the body blown apart into managable panels. Molasses. Look it up on here

 

X2 on giving that rust a molasses bath- it'll do wonders when you have the paint off and costs next-to-nothing.

 

www.redistripco.com in Roselle. They know what they are doing with old sheetmetal! They do LOTS of car bodies.

 

Make a "bath tub" out of heavy plastic layed over a form of 2X12'S and use a mixture of molassas and water (8 to 1) then pressure wash after a week or so. Dry imeaditly.

You will not believe how good it works. (nor how bad it smells)

An old swimming pool liner works great, get one at a pool supplyer or a kids plastic pool will work, but being round, you will have to use more liquid.

Once you have it dry, spray all the inside seams with primer and let it drip into all the crevases. Dont worry about the drips or runs.

 

Have it blasted with recycled Glass. Better than sand and safer to. just my .02

 

We've blasted hundreds of 20's and 30's bodies and parts with no problems what so ever. We use a very fine crushed garnet that is basically dust at low pressure. If the customer brings in something that is paper thin or is flat like some truck hoods then we would recommend dipping.

 

I vote for blasting - I want to see all the sins and fix them once and for all

 

<---- wants to know more about the molasses technique.

 

NRDave,

All you want to know about molassas dip and more.

http://www.google.com/search?q=mola...7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=

 

Blast

 

Ain't that's what the baby Mole smelled,,Mole Asses! HRP

 

The molasses looks good but way to cold here for that option. I just found someone that will blast it with soda and hit the rusty stuff with crushed glass 88 miles away. I sent him the pics and we'll see what he says. The other closest I could find was 188 miles away, so I am crossing my fingers.

 

I'm gonna try this baby mole ass stuff.... I say blast I wish I had the money to do it!!!

 

Anyone tried opti-blast type 2 urea plastic media? Read a story in the march street rodder about it as an alternative to both sand and soda. Removes rust but not as damaging as sand can be due to lower pressure (50-55psi).

 

You could also use soda ash(washing soda) with a graphite anode in water solution connect to bettery charger.Ck fordgarage.com. go down to tools and restoration.Cheaper than molasses.Great info site!

 

Okay They want $600.00 to $ 700. to blast it. I 'm to cheap would rather spend the money elswhere . So I am building a box and going to try Electrolysis. I've read quite a bit on here and found a 50 lb bag of sodium carbonate at the pool and spa place for $35.00. If it works well I can do it for some friends also. When I get it started I'll post some pictures it will be a copuple days. I have to wait until it warms up a little.

 

Wow I would not mind 700 or so. Around here folks been quoting 1800 to strip the car and that is before they even see it.

 

A point of interest....which I realize may open a can of worms, but a friend had his 38 Chevy soda blasted. Several months, maybe a year after painting, while blowing dust off with an airhose, the clear came off also. Now, let me say that I don't know how the metal was cleaned before sealing, etc. I've been painting since the early 70's and never had an adhesion problem. I also never soda blasted a car body. One of the leading blaster mfrs claims that no paint mfr will warranty their paint on a vehicle after soda blasting.

 

I`ve tried the Molasses rust removal and it was great! I went to the feed store and bought some agricultural molasses . (they feed it to animals) Cost about $ 20.00 for 2.5 gallons . The only tip I could add is to get some POR Prep and Ready to spray on to stop the flash rusting. This method works, is low tech, low cost,and makes your lawn happy.

 

If you have a compressor and a inexpensive Granger sand Blaster you can do it yourself..maybe not as quick as a big commercial setup but us something anyone can do themselves.

Granted,it's a lot of work but I try to do as much as I can. HRP