Looking for a good rack and pinion conversion for my 57 Mercury Turnpike Cruiser. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance to all.
I clicked on Reply and then just sat here shaking my head and decided Not to say anything. The Wizzard
Re rack and pinion on 57 Ford product, I too would have to ask why. If the problem is that the car does not steer well, then my reccomendation would be to fix what ever the problem is and leave it alone. Ford products of that era are really good drivng cars when everything is right. There are parts available to fix anything you might need. Usually the big issue is power steering leakage, again that can be addressed. Also front end conditon, alignment, and very important tires. Tires alone can make a night and day difference in the way a car drives. And then lastly there are these marveleous "kits" to change over to r&p. Well like most things you exchange one set of problems for another. 99.9 % of those kits use a gm j-car(cavalier) rack unit which was marginal under the 2500 lb pos it came on. And they want you to steer a car almost twice that size with it. They are also leak-prone. But the worst problem is that they do not have enough travel so you end up with reduced turning radius. Then you have to usually do some Rube Goldberg double-triple u-joint fiasco from the column to the rack which looks like crap, and doesn't feel good either. Then there is steering geometry, which if isn't perfectly on the money will be a bump-steering nightmare. Have I said enough? Probably too much, but I have been working on these cars close to 40 years and I can say they drive nice when they are right, and a r&p unit is not going to make it feel like a sports car. It's still a two ton tank. And a beautiful one at that. JMO.
I'm changing my OT ponycar over to R&P as soon as I can afford it. Spent $1200 replacing parts only to have it back in the same condition 6 years later.
R & P with a stock 17 1/2" steering wheel. That should be fun. I've been to the web sight before. I like how they just bolt everything in, especialy the Heim joint where the clutch linkage pivot ball mounts. I happen to be using those in 2 of my 57's. Now what? My advise is to find someone that actually has one installed and go for a ride with them. If you can, drive it on a Country road like you would drive your own car. Then decide. Not everything new that just bolts in is a good deal. The Wizzard
Actually thats not too bad. There are companies who sell kits to fit your existing spindles. Or you can do a junkyard swap, '73-'79 full size Ford, Merc, and Lincoln. Your Merc should be a 5 on 5 bolt pattern as are the cars I listed. If it is 4.5 on 5 then try '77-'79 t-Bird. Works real well, sometimes requires a different tie rod end that is readily available, or ream out the tie rod hole with a tapered reamer. Make sure you get everything including the proportioning valve.
I built my own R&P system on my 57 Chevy wagon. I fab'd the cross bracket using 1-1/4" DOM tubing and 1/4" plate using the stock steering box and idlerarm frame holes. I used a 95 Sunfire power rack and a 71 BB power steering pump. I must add that I bought short steering arms to get a shorter turning radius. I made my own tierod connecters out of hex steel to mate the rack rod to the 57 tierods. Hot rodding is and has always been about doing things that are different of unheard of. What crazies put a Hemi in a street car in the 50 and had fun!!!!!
henry's57bbwagon looks great, I just can't decide what to do. I may try the original steering and then if I don't like the results go back with a rack. The steering on the merc is hydraulic assist now. I am not going back original with engine. I am putting a 351 roller out of an e250 van with the e4od tranny. I like the stock look with driveability.
Kinda interested to see how this turns out. I have two 57 fords and need lots of guidance in life thats for sure
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