I have a couple of winters center sections that I would like to use on my build , but do not know if they will work. They are out of a sprint car and used to run "open axels" and I want to know if I can bolt on axel tubes out of a vintage ford and then just get some 31 spline axels made to fit ??? Or if it is more envoled than that. They also have the provision on the bottom to disenguage the rear end wich is kinda cool.
dick spadro can help you witha quick change that will fit your bells dont think your idea of a set up is gonna work championship rears and V8 rears they just might be 2 different animales
The Winters Champ center sections can be used but you will need to have adapters from Winters for the early Ford bells. The whole process can be expensive unless you go with the aluminum side bells and 3" axle tubes. They look great also. You will need a differential rather than the spool they normally use. Purchase a used one on ebay and save big bucks. Ron's Rear Ends in LA can fix you up with what you need. Post a photo of the center section and I will tell you what you need. Check the archives for the many articles that are available on the HAMB.
I don't think winters makes a center section from a race car that fits the v8 center section. the midget rear is the same as a model A-1932 rear and the sprint car rear is the same as 3/4 ton ford truck
Lynn (Pewsplace) knows what he is talking about. Like he said, post up the pics and help is available.
If you have the big Winters quick change section, the easiest way to run it on the street is to use the Winters, Frankland style aluminum bells (which might already be on your center section.) You can press 9in aftermarket axle tubes on the bells, then have axles made to fit. (The brake backing plate flange will come mounted to the end of the axle tubes.) There is more stuff to know, but that is the basic idea. If you hit the search button, there are a bunch of good threads on quickies. Read up and you will find they are not a difficult as you might think. Good luck and holler if you need anything. -Abone. Here is what the big Frankland, Winters and large Halibrand rears look like going together. Assembled with 9in tubes. And, under the car.
Most of my questions have been answered and thanks for the photos of the center section going together, not my #1 choice as far as looks are conserned since my plan is for one of the 2 that I have to be totally exposed but I couldnt beat the price on these (traded welding up 2 of them for 2 damaged ones that I weldedup for myself!!!!)
this is what a champ size (halibrand in this case) rear looks like when fitted with the adapters to go to the ford banjo tubes. it still uses the 3/4 ton ford differential.
So a quick rundown I need adapters from???? And what year ford truckrearend am I looking for?? what else am I missing?? I
I got this old Frankland 10A-80 from my dad's old dirt tracker from the 70's. I know it has a steel spool, what's the best to get for the street? Is it a big job to change tube ends and get rid of the wide five for a regular chevy bolt pattern?
What you want to do is not all that hard. But there are a couple of ways to do it. If you are willing to do a little detective work, I can guide you through the process, and show you the most cost effective way to do it. Pull the axles out and see if they are 12 or 31 spline and if they are the same length. Measure the length and post a picture. We'll go from there.
I know they are 12 spline from old broken axles he had. As far as the length goes, I will need to narrow it anyway to fit my 38 chevy. No measurements have been done yet, just in the planning stage. My main concern was finding a diff to replace the spool on a reasonable budget. This will determine if I will go with using the QC or not. I also have access to a machine shop, to help on costs.
I don't think the diff sizing has changed at all. Lots of those in pavement circle track cars, so you can get all sorts of limited slip stuff for them. I'd go with a 31 spline Ford (probably all you will find nowadays). You can cut the ends off and go with a Grand National (or GN) floater hub that will give you a 5 on 4 3/4 or 5 on 5 standard bolt pattern. I don't believe there are any standard hub adapters available for the wide 5 snout as the bearings are too large.
the back plate on a c a e has the fins criss crossing like two spiders ! are those adapter plates 11 bolts pattern , or 12 ?
Frank, The center section in the photo is definetly Halibrand, the adaptor plates definetly are not. Since I have one like it, and it says CAE, I'm pretty sure these are too. They are 12 bolt. Winters only has 11 bolt plates and they are pricey. PM me for a quote.
Don't be afraid to get a 12 spline differential. There is a very doable axle conversion. Tube ends for 'late Big Ford' can be welded to your tubes to use push in axles. If you want a floater, that can be done on the cheap with used parts. But, drum brakes will be a challenge. I'm debating which way to go on my '37 Chevy right now. I'll let you know what I decide. By the way, overall width looks like it will be around 64" (depends on wheel width and backspace)
I want to remove the floater and probably go with the big ford bearings, I think this is the easiest and cheapest. Since I have access to a machine shop, this should be fairly easy ( I think). It's finding a diff reasonablely priced that might be hard, especially getting it here in canada. I think even a stock open 3/4 ton diff would be sufficient for a mild cruiser ( if that's feasible).
Find some oval racers. Pavement cars have used these for years. 12 spline differentials are usually pretty reasonable. The axles are the same price, 12 or 31 spline. You need big bore bearings with the 12 spline. I'll try to get a picture on here tomorrow. I have a rear end going together with this set up right now. Saved my customer big bucks since he could use his Gleason TorSen differential.
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