Which hose sends water toward the heater core? A) Hose from top of water pump. B) Hose from intake. Thanx
Don't quote me on this but, I don't think it matters. Its just a heat exchange. As long as water flows and doesn't leak it should work. All you are trying to do is heat the core up and then draw air through. At that time the heat from the core transfers to the air your are drawing through it and it the brings warmed air into the cab. Maybe I am wrong. Dan
To my way of thinking, there would be positive pressure in the intake water neck, and a negative pressure at the point that water is returned to the stream of flow. So the water flows from the intake water neck thru the hose, then the heater core, then back thru the other hose and reenter the main flow at the water pump. Dave
Actually, I should have asked a more complete question. I am looking to install a shut off valve to stop the flow going into the core. I want to keep the passenger compartment cooler in the summer. I know either hose will stop the flow, but I think I would rather not have pressure into the core. I don't want to promote a leak.
Bob, I believe I would put the shutoff between the inake manifold outlet and the heater core, up stream of the passenger compartment. I've done it that way in the past and it worked well. Dave
the entire cooling system will be at the same pressure regardless of where you put the shut off valve. the pressure is coming from the coolant warming up and being contained by the rad cap, not by the water pump. i'm sure one way or the other works better, but i can't say i'v ever paid any attention when hooking up coolant lines.
The pressure will be very close everywhere in the system. The suction of the pump makes a slight pressure differential (lower) that causes the flow. None of this will cause or prevent a leak.
The flow is intake to heater core then back to pump. You can get an H pipe style heater control that is vaccum operated and keep the flow going thru the system. I got one and if you need it PM me.
Hey 1743, go from the intake side for the "correct" fit for the valve I don't know why thats were I see it most. If your a trial & error guy go to either.
I dont know if anyonestill makes one but I have used a valve that screws into the intake and the heater hose attaches to it. Pretty simple fix.
You should be able to find mechanical heater valvethat has 5/8 lines in and out that you could put in the line. Either hook a cable to it or just flip the lever with the season.
shutting the water off at the intake will keep it a little cooler until the thermal mass of the water back heats what is in the core.
DOM I'm about to install heat in my 31 so we will see what works, If I could hook up two ball valves from the depot, (one on each line ) it would just be a matter of twisting the valves on and off spring or fall so it does not heat up the core under the dash. Sounds easy enough. I'm still trying to come up with a fan. This is what I have Core from advanced $21.00 10' of Stainless braided 5/8 hose from advanced $37.00 A few stainless fittings from advanced $20.00 A 5/8 90% fitting to come out of the intake Summit $30.00 Just need the ball valves and a home made steel box to put the core in. I plan on venting it to the windshield also for defrost.
Carl I don't thinl you'll ever notice what little heat comes in on what is normally the "back door", which is the hose that runs from the heater core to the water pump on SBC. The '53 Ford I bought in '59 had a valve operated by vacuum on the inlet side of heater core, and you never noticed any heat coming in from the downstream side. Only problem was the valves were notorious for rupturing the diaphram in the valve and spew coolant all over! I installed a valve that was hand operated to replace it. If it were me, I'd just install the valve between intake and heater core, then if next summer you did experience heat in passenger compartment you could install the other valve then. One less valve and less chances of a leak!
Thanks for the input, I will start looking for a manual valve. It will all come together in the next week or so, Deb loves riding with me so it will be nice to keep it going all winter long.
check out the vintage air site and follow their drawing . when i installed their system i hooked the heater shutoff valve on the wrong hose and couldnt get the a//c to cool the car without the heat on. swapped the valve on the hoses and everything worked fine
I was on the vintage site and the heaters are more then I care to spend and when you add the extars that I want in the motor compartment it gets up pretty high. As for the AC in my car, all I have is 6 holes above the windsheld. Kinda like the old 2-60 air. The space I have is very tight so putting the system together from scratch I think may be the best way for me. Besides I'm a cheep ass and have more time then money. I like to play in the shop with Moma, She helps a good bit also. Its our quality time. I hope to get it rt on the way it flows, we will see.
The flow is from intake manifold to water pump. GM always had a restriction (1/4" hole) on the manifold side. That is also where the shut off valve should be. If anyone thinks the pressure is the same as the radiator cap, your wrong. The coolant pump makes pressure, thats how it moves the coolant, and with a restriction such as a thermostat the pressure behind the thermostat will rise above ambient. So your running down the pike at 200* rad cap has 14 psi, the coolant pump is pressurizing above that say 15 psi (or more) now you have 29 psi in the heater core. Say good bye heater core.
I put a generic cable operated shutoff valve in the hose from the intake manifold to the heater. It works.
I run these ball valves from Home Depot in my stuff. They are in the PEX plumbing section. Rated for a whole bunch of pressure and good quality. Regardless of the 3/4 inch size on the tag, they fit the 5/8 hose coming from the intake perfectly. I guess PEX and heater hose use different ways of measuring.
Ohhhh, See how things can come together? I love it and will be heading to the depot. Gata use up those gift cards you know. Looks clean to. I will be hiding that up under the dash.
So I found this heater box and fan system in a conversion van at the junkyard yesterday. I'm hoping to plumb it up today. I'm going to put the Home depot valves in also.
Heater is in, plumbed up and duct installed. Hope to give it a try Tuesday or Wednesday night. It fit great under the dash and didn't take but two 18 packs. I'm going to repair the dash also while its out and repaint it. By the weekend should be back on the road. The home depot valves worked out great. I will post a picture of the motor plumbing after it's cleaned up.
I've had ball valves in the line before but didn't think about putting them in like that. The heater control valve for Ford F100's from 65/69 and 66/72 Broncos is 5/8 in and out and cable operated Ford part number is C3UZ28495A It should work pretty well in most cases where you want one you can control from inside the car.
I put a brass spicket shut off valve on mine. Line from the intske to the core. Shut it off in the summer works great. What they been doin in semis for a long time. All my buddys blow me shit about it. Lol.
I'm keeping everything out of the engine area as I don't even want the hoses up there but I guess they have to be there to have heat. I might remove them when it gets hot out. I'm glutton for punishment.
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