Has anyone here used any of the Finish 1 FP415 High Build DTM primer? I tried it recently and had awful luck with it. I have used Finish 1 etch primer and the FP410 Urethane primer and have had quite good luck with them so I thought I'd give the 415 a try. It goes on good and has pretty good coverage, but when I went to paint... everything went to hell. The paint on these pieces raised like crazy. I did this several different times changing all the variables I could ultimately getting it narrowed down to the 415 being the problem. I called my Sherwin Williams rep and told him everything I had done and all the variables I had changed. After talking to the rep he agreed that my problem was the 415 but had no idea why it was behaving the way it was. I ended up stripping the parts bare and etching/sealing/painting them leaving the 415 out of the equation and they look great. Has anyone else had a similar experience with this primer or did I just get a bad batch?
Having done many overall refinish jobs in over 40 years of car work,I honestly think Sherwin Williams products are only adequate when painting one's house.....
My Dad has had his own body shop for 34 years(doing bodywork for 41 years) so I have been around alot of different refinishing products. This is only the 2nd time in 15 years that I have had anything bad to say about a Sherwin Williams product. The last time was when we first started using Sherwin Williams and their clear at the time was mediocre. Prior to Sherwin Williams we used about 70% Martin Senour products. I am told Sherwin Williams and Martin Senour are the same product with different labels. For paint and clear I like Dupont but, as far as primers are concerned, Sherwin Williams has been great.
I have used the Finish 1 410 primer and the FC720 clears with no problems. The shop I used to work at used nothing but Sherwin Williams and for the most part had no problems other then bad color matches when blending. On my own projects I like to use Omni urethane primers and epoxys. DTM primer works good for smaller repairs like scratches or door dings but anything larger I still like to use a uerthane filler primer over a etch or epoxy primer.
If you read any of their tech sheets, you will find that most of their DTM primers are only good for areas smaller than 5"x5" without requiring the use of an etch primer anyway. Most of their DTM is also non-iso. I use 410 on my race cars and it works great. I even spray it over scuffed bare metal, but I don't have to worry about longevity because the paint gets knocked off after a few races anyway. What did you spray on top of it?
Acme and Martin senour are cheap second line sherwin Williams. Use p30 primer from s/w it is much better. The shop I work as uses it but as far as base goes I prefer ppg. You can't even wet sand ultra 7000 base if you needed to unless its smaller then a 5in area I believe the tech sheet says. The p30 is a good 2/k surfacer. BUT on my personal stuff I like SPI primers and clears along with ppg base.
I've read the data sheet about 100 times it seems. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/media/pds/English/AS2817.pdf I did not initially have any spots of bare metal bigger than a quarter. The first time I prepped the surface, put on the 415, let it dry for 24 hours, sanded with 400, and sprayed it with lacquer since it was only interior parts on a driver. After the first time the paint raised, I stripped some parts to bare metal and then I did use etch primer(also Sherwin Williams). Sprayed 415, then basecoat(Ultra 7000) and it raised. Once again, stripped parts, etch primer, 415, sealer(Dimension), Ultra 7000, raised AGAIN. Finally said enough of this crap. Stripped everything, etch primer, sealer, Ultra 7000, Dupont Clear. Looks great! The reason that I started this thread was to determine if it was just a bad batch and they should be replacing it for me, or if the Finish 1 DTM is just crap and I need to figure out where to get rid of the 2/3 of a gallon I have left.
Prior to this I have not used a DTM primer. I knew there were going to be a few small bare spots and aerosol etch seems to be a joke. I figured the DTM would save me a little hassle. As I said, I've had great luck with other Sherwin Williams products.
I would say its just crap. They make so many different primers its hard to keep track of them all. I've been experimenting with martin-senour simply because I get it at such a discount. DuPont is still the best. Is ultra 7000 like crossfire or tec-base? I would never spray lacquer over anything but lacquer primer. In your case I would have just used an epoxy primer and painted it. At least you figured it out though.
I believe it is like tec-base. We have used SW over MS for a long time also because of cost. I probably should have used an epoxy, but I was trying to get by on the cheap for this project. I don't believe finish 1 has an epoxy and like I said I've had good results with their other products. Live and learn I guess.
How are PPG products as far as cost nowadays? That is why we had limited use of PPG for alot of years. Our local place was way higher cost than Dupont and Martin Senour.
All the high end base lines are expensive anymore, but wait till you use water Bourne. As far as ppg dp90 goes if its the LF series which I bet it is, over priced and once you try the "laquor thinner" test you wouldn't wanna use it again.
Take a rag with laquor thinner on it and rub the dp primer, will remove it. I tried this to 8 month old primer so it was cured. I used it for years myself with out issues but when do you want something with the chemical resistance of a 1k enamel protecting your metal? When it was just regular DP I was excellent primer but then they came out with lead free. I would still use it if someone brought it to me but not by choice.
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