Is there any known source that documents the proper procedures to line up doors, hoods, etc. and get all the gaps even?
If there is I'm not aware of it,,it takes a lot of work with washers,files,and cutting and build up welding to get them all the same while mocking up the car,, Take it apart,paint it and put it back together,,guess what,,you still got a lot of work to do because all the previous work you did don't come out perfect. HRP
what kinda car? does it have fixed quarters ie welded on? generally its best to start at the back and work your way forward (because here the quarters can't be moved) ...unless you've got a pre '35 or so...then you need to get the rad shell lined up and the hood fitting to both the rad shell and cowl...then work rearward...generally...
Im with HRP lots of ratchet work, test fitting, shimming, checking, and adjusting. All this before you have to take it off and move it again. Some what of a slow process sometimes but it will make or break the look of a nice car with uneven gaps everywhere.
Hey Joe, What vehicle/era are you talking 'bout? Pre-war has its' own set of issues, fitment wise, post war can be all over the road! Composite ( wood & metal ) construction, conventional framed vehicles, or unitized construction all different issues. As a general rule, the cheaper the vehicle when originally sold, and the greater number sold, usually equaled a marginal fit up of sheetmetal panels. " Do not reach greedily for the Kool-Aid "
Post war, conventional frame, fixed quarters. Looking for any book, video, website with pictures, etc. that focuses on methods used.
Bottom up. But that's debatable. No, generally every freaking thing is sort of loose and fluid when you start. I did a k 5 blazer , you'd be amazed at what a few body shims on the mounts in the right or wrong place will do. Minor frame sag or bushing collapse makes the job rough. So does not having things tightened evenly. Empty door shells hang differently after they are loaded. Weather stripping changes things too.
Not saying this is the correct way however this is the way I did it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320267&page=7
My '55 Chevy shop manual shows how to make adjustments and set up gaps. It has exploded views, and describes where and how to start and finish. It also lists what the proper gap tolerances should be for every panel.
told by one of the top fabricators around that once you have hinges, etc functioning as best that you can get them then cut off or add material as needed. the factory didn't worry about precision fit. adjusting something like a hood can be very frustrating. push on one corner and the other pops up. time to do some metal work to get kinks, etc out. none of this is fast or easy.
If you are replacing quarters and can't user them, start with another fixed point, such as a fixed cowl or firewall
There was a thread that was recently posted that showed how to adjust the body gaps and fitment. Procedures were direct from the dealer service manuals in the 50s. Maybe someone else remembers and can post up a link.
I did my trade in a body shop and everything is different. I started by getting the doors to fit the body so everything lined up and lines flowed into each other, then moved to trunk. The hinges sometimes need a little tweaking. With doors I would strive to get even gaps to rear fenders and a similar even gap to front door. Tapered gaps detract from the fit and finish as you do notice them once everything is together Once you hang the front sheet metal the fun begins getting fenders to line up to hood and get the cowl and door gaps even to match the body gaps. It does is frustrating and very time consuming. I've even had to MIG weld door edges and file them down to correct OEM or previous work. Window frames can be persuaded with a rubber mallet. Best of all DON'T SCRATCH IT. Mask up edges to protect with a few layers of tape and have a friend help where necessary as some items are bulky and awkward by oneself. I've never seen any actual specific publication on doing it, some very general comments on aligning things but that's it.
The best place to start is a factory shop manual. a reproduction is fine. Mine has a great picture of a factory frame work that clamps to the door and allows you to actually twist the door while still bolted to the car.
I can offer 2 tips that may help you. The usual place to start fitting is front of rocker to door, then door to body, then forward and back. #2 is keep a clear head and do not get frustrated. Forget the curvey shapes of panels and think of the side panels as sheets of plywood on the side of a building. Easier to think about how thay have to move. Sometimes adjust works sometimes you need to bend metal. If you can find an experienced body man to help it will go much better. Steve
Here is a Rod and Custom article on panel gapping It is on a 49 chevy. I used the info for my 51 and have gotten it quite close. you need to adjust , adjust and adjust some more. Then if you do someting new like add some weather strip rubber, you might have to go back and do it again.
It gets easier if you break it down to separate steps. First hang the doors to the body then the fenders to the doors and the hood to the fenders. Doors must have tight hinge pins. Remove the latch so the door hangs free. Fit the door to the frame with an even gap first (door to hinge bolts) then move the door in or out to fit flush (body to hinge bolts). When the door fits nice put the latch back on, peek in the door gap to get it lined up heighth wise. Shut the door and note how far out it is, move it in that much so it fits flush. Now go on to the front end. If the body is twisted because you messed up the floor, rockers etc you are in shit. So before you weld them solid check the doors fit. Brace the body when working on floors and rockers.
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