I just recently purchased a 59 Chev Wagon and first thing I want to do is convert the brakes from the old single pot master cylinder to a power booster and dual resorvoir master cylinder. I want to keep drums all round. I know there are kits you can buy on ebay and other sites but I'm cheap and like doing things the hard way. I've done some searches and have not seen a definite parts list of you need this, that, etc. Anyone done this, know exactly what I can bolt on from other year GM's? from what I can tell I need a power booster from a 64 impala (which should be a straight bolt on?) Is this a single diaphragm booster though right? Is there a combination using a dual diaphraghm booster? and a master cylinder of a late 60's chevelle or nova or something with drum/drum. Any help appreciated guys, Thanks.
Before I did power brakes on my 60 I used a dual master cylinder from a 68 Impala. Direct bolt on (except of course the lines). I believe you could use the power booster from the same car. I ended up buying a disc brake "kit". Keep in mind, chevelles and novas are lighter, they dont need as much braking power.
I bolted on a '67 Chevy dual MC and a 63/64 Chevy booster right onto my '59 Bel Air. I just had to change the lines and connecting rod. Drums all around. Works just fine. I drive it in and around Chicago all the time. At the time I bought the parts, RockAuto.com had the cheapest parts. In fact, NAPA told me *IF* they could get the booster at all it would be well over $300. That was almost 10 years ago though.
The guy from ABS brakes in So-Cal told me $180 at the Pomona Swap for a booster and master cylinder but I'm not sure if that comes with the connecting rod for the brake pedal, or the offset brackets to mount the booster up and out from the firewall. Sound about right?
I took mine out of the box and bolted it on. I did have to extend the connecting rod/push rod, but I'm pretty sure extensions are available everywhere (Summit, Speedway, etc)
So I finally got my brakes sorted through the guys at ABS Brakes in Orange. The setup came with an 1" bore MC, single diaphragm booster, bracket to space it off the firewall (correct angle, clears steering column shift linkage and wiper motor), and correct length pushrod to the brake pedal. I spent a bit of time trying to get it all setup correctly and just couldn't get it to work properly. Everything else in the system was good, but the pedal had about 3" of nothing before you felt any sort of resistance, then you had to really stand on it for any sort of little brakes to work. I troubleshooted everything and narrowed it down to the MC / booster combo so I took it back to the guys at ABS. They were super helpful and swapped it straight over for a bigger 1 1/8" MC and a dual diaphragm master cylinder. Now it stops on a dime! It is super touchy though so I'm thinking maybe the dual diaphragm booster is too much, but I can live with it the way it is.
do you still have the original generater setup on your car? just curious because i would like to upgrade my brake system but have the original generator, will your set up clear?
The bolt patterns are the same, you can use most any booster/master combo that will fit, the key is going to be getting the push rod right.
I bought my stuff from ABS Power Brake, INC 233 N Lemon St Orange, CA 92866 (714) 771-6549 Super helpful guys. This is what I got from them in the kit, for $180 picked up: dual circuit master cylinder power booster 4" angled bracket to space booster out from firewall - clears the top of the steering column with the shift linkage on it, and the wiper motor. Also angles the setup down a bit at the rear, to point the pushrod down lower on the brake pedal. correct length pushrod to the brake pedal. Here's what I had to do: The stock brake line runs from MC down to driver front wheel to a T, then across the front of the crossmember to passenger front wheel to a T, then the line runs down the back to the rear. At the T connector on the frotn passenger chassis rail you need to disconnect the rear line from the T and plug this hole in the T connector. This stock line from the MC to front driver side, and over to passenger side now becomes your complete Front circuit that you connect into your new MC. This line connects into the front reservoir of the MC. You need to now get a new line, I think mine was about 75" or something, that runs from your new MC, down the chassis, around the front crossmember, and up to where the old rear line was connected at the T connector. Get an inline coupler and connect this new line to the old rear line. This is now your Rear Circuit, which connects into the rear port of the new MC. I installed the MC and booster onto the factory 4 bolts that come out the firewall, everything fits nicely. The pushrod that goes into the car and connects to the brake pedal, I had to adjust the clevis way out to reach the pedal. I actually took off the new one they gave me, and used the OG stock clevis as it was a bit longer, plus the pin that locates it was the right size for the brake pedal. The one supplied with the kit didn't fit through the hole in the pedal and I couldn't be f'd taking it out to drill a new hole. Make sure you connect it to the lower hole which is about an inch lower than the stock hole. If you don't have the two hole brake pedal, then you get to take the pedal out and drill a new hole Once brake pedal was all connected up, I "bench bled" the MC. Some do it in a vise on the bench, I did it in the car. Ran some lines from the ports out and back into the reservoirs (make sure lines are as short as they can be). filled with fluid - two people, one to watch the bubbles, one to slowly press the pedal. had to pump it about a thousand times (no not really a thousand, but a lot) to get all the bubbles out the lines. Once this was complete, connect the two new brake lines and bled my brakes. Oh forgot to mention, hooked up the vaccuum line too to the vaccuum port coming out the rear of the manifold. Mine has a 327 with alternator on it, so I'm not sure if it would clear stock generator. I can take a photo of the size of it and measure if you want? If I was doing it again I would get the single diaphragm booster, probably about 8", as the dual diaphragm one seems a little touchy for the drums. If you're ordering a setup or picking it up, I woudl try and get all the fittings, adapters, couplers, plugs etc, you will need from them as I had a hard time trying to find the right ones at NAPA and Autozone. The new brake line I just got from Napa, one of the pre made ones. While I was at it, I also replaced new brake shoes on front, all new wheel cylinders on all 4 corners, and new hoses at the front. I got these from autozone and ran about $120 all up. Sorry if some of you are reading this and are saying "well, yeah, all that stuff is normal, easy straight forward, i knew that, blah blah". I just thought I would put it all in one location as it may help some one. Cheers, Paul.
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