I recently purchased a 177” Front Engine Dragster. The car is complete minus the wheelie bars. There are four attachment points on the back of the cage. From looking at other period rails, it looks like four tubes should attach to the back of the cage and come together at one rear wheel. How long should the bars be? Should the bars be adjustable and if so; with heim joints? I assume no spring, correct? Chrome Molly tubing? How much space should the wheel have above the ground when the car is at rest? Is there a place can buy FED wheelie bars? If not, I can fabricate no problem with some help from the HAMB. Pics would also be helpful. Thanks!
Everybody has a theory about how they/you should run them----Heres mine 1) single wheel (wont steer the car like 2) 2) 48" back (this keeps you and others from tripping over them or hanging up the pilot chute. 3) spring loaded so it doesnt bang and bottoms out when the front end is 12" off the ground 4) I check hight by sticking my foot under it till the wheel hits the laces 5) I never have used the bar as a launch aid, but just as a safety measure. 6) what you see on TV as to what the pros do with the bars 99.3% on the time does not apply to you. 7) If somebody tells you different its only because its what works for them or they havent a clue to whats going on but saw it on TV
Never, never,! rely on a wheelie bar to steer youre fed. Crazy. It's there in case something goes bad. A one wheel bar is the best way to go, about 36 to 40in long. It should just touch the track at the hit, or not at all. Tune the chassis on a fed by adding weight on the noise or where needed. Adjust tire pressure and most important roll out on the slicks.
Thanks Jim, will also post some photos for help trying to identify the car. Looking for make, year and history if anybody knows.
Looks very typical of a late 60s early 70s fuel car. No clue as who built it. I would change the steering to a bell crank on the noise. Torsion bar front? As for chrome moly, you can do a spark test, google it, very easy. If you can get your big toe under the car, let it dig. Most old diggers were built with 8 4/3 Mopar rear ends. If it's been changed to a 9in Ford, that would drop the rear down about 1 1/2 inches. Difference in pinion hight. Don't run tubes in the slicks.....Happy Motoring....
It has a Mopar 8-3/4 rear. I'll take the wing off the front and the rear skin and post some more pics. Guy I got it from said NHRA inspector recently said it is chrome moly construction. Last inspection sticker was 1999. It's low already, barely makes it out of the shop without dragging.
There is nothing that screams any particuler builder or year and chances are that it is just a homebuilt or small shop.My guess is that you got it tagged so just put some fuel in it and have fun. Personaly I would break the whole car apart to check everything , looks like a lot of add-ons and unpainted pieces since it was first built.
Yep, got it just for fun. Was just wonder'n about it's origin. Plan to take appart and check it out for sure before making any passes. It's all there, just been sitting for a few years.
The engine looks to be too far out (forward) to be an old T/F car as most used direct drive sans a transmission with a slider clutch. Its probably a purpose built bracket car as it looks like it probably has room for a tramsmission (probably a 'glide?).
It presently has a chevy small block with a glide. But it looks like it once had some other power plant mounted further toward the rear.
I will add this , If it is/was tagged the chances are that it is a new build because the specs have changed so much that anything raced back in the 60's is/wont be legal even for the slower classes unless lots and lots of updates are done.
Thanks for all the input. Will get it out and take more detailed pictures this weekend. NHRA tag punched Sept. 1999 if I remember correctly. Will take pics of placement of tag too. Weather sucks here today.
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