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Tips or advice for TIG welding aluminum with my old DialArc?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cktasto, Jan 16, 2013.

  1. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 313

    cktasto
    Member

    Hey guys,
    I've never welded aluminum but I thought I'd give it a shot this weekend on some 1/8" aluminum plate. I've got a Miller DialArc and I guess I'll need to get a new tungsten and filler material. I took a TIG welding class a year ago but never did any aluminum. I understand the aluminum has to be cleaned a lot to break an oxide coating on the surface and the tungsten should be treated to form a small ball on the tip. I'm going to check out you-tube videos but thought I'd check in here first.

    Thanks

    Charlie
     
  2. Noland
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    Noland
    Member

    Im not a good alum. tig welder but I can get some stuff to stick together. Um you want the alum. as clean as you can get it. I sand off any oxidization then clean with a stainless wirebrush then wipe it down with acetone. As far as tungsten goes alot of people use straight tungsten instead of 2% like used for steel. That is the the tungsten that gets the ball on the end. Ive also seen people use 2% but you still want it to have a sharp point like for steel. Also put your welded on AC and constant HF. Good luck
     
  3. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,482

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    Well my old Dial Arc 250 works best to use pure tungsten make a ball on the end of it and constant HF and AC. . If the part you are welding is fairly large you may have to pre-heat it. It takes a lot of power to weld the Alum. Have fun. Don't get a sunburn!
     
  4. Cameokid2012
    Joined: Feb 5, 2012
    Posts: 3

    Cameokid2012
    Member
    from Spring tx

    Use 100% argon gas. Either green or gold tungsten ,sharpen to point if using the gold ,get some 4043 filler rods. And go at it .I would suggest starting on thicker material,thin take a lot of practice to keep from getting to hot.
     

  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Some good advice here, but so far no one has got it right on the tungsten.

    All tig is done with 100% Argon so that part is easy.

    Yes you do need to have full time HF (High Frequency on your machine. And you will be running AC.

    For the tungsten what you need is Zirconiated, it has a brown color code and is far better than pure tungsten (green) oe even 2% thoriated (red) which is actually for steel and stainless steel.
    You will allow the Zirconiated tungsten to form a ball about half the diameter for best results.

    This info applies to the Dialarc and other older square wave machines or the Synchrowaves.

    For a new AC Inverter power source, you can actually weld aluminum with a tungsten sharpened to a point.

    What works well with the inverter power sources like the new Diversions or Dynasties is Ceriated tungsten (orange).

    Aluminum Tig welding also requires the dip techique where the filler rod is dipped into the puddle in a consistent pattern.

    When the filler rod is removed between dips the oxide cleaning action can take place before the next filler rod addition.

    Practice with dipping makes nice ripples.
     
  6. vpd
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 15

    vpd
    Member

    I have an old Dialarc also and weld aluminum all the time. Like said 100% argon for gas. AC and HF on continuous. For 1/8" aluminum set the machine to medium heat and the dial to 100. Use the foot pedal to control the heat. 3/32" tungsten and I use only 2% thoriated for alum and steel. I used to use pure tungsten for alum but switched to 2% thoriated and never noticed a difference. I quit balling my tungsten and just sharpen it like a pencil (not has steep of angle has I do for steel) and leave it a little blunt on the end. Has soon has I strike an arc, the end gets a nice small ball and I get a more controllable arc. When I balled the tungsten it seemed to make the arc funnel out to much and it was harder to control where you want the heat. Just my 2 cents.
     
  7. I concur.
     
  8. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,594

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    When you dip the rod and pull it back try and keep it in the gas flow helps the rod from getting contaminated.
     
  9. kevin47
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 43

    kevin47
    Member

    Just a reminder...Keep covered up...! Hands, arms and that front of yer neck...! :D
    ....Your machine has HF does it not...? I have a the white faced Dial-arc 250 you mention...I've found it's not the greatest for aluminum, but it will get you there...Good Luck...! Kevin
     
  10. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    what the others have not told you is beside the 1/8" being very hard to start your practice welds is you have to watch the puddle really close. Do not use brake clean or electrical cleaner. When you see the aluminum start to shine you had better start moving the torch. When the aluminum starts to shine or become glossy it is liquid or ready to accept the filler rod. If you have a foot pedal or hand wheel to control the heat you should back off the heat so as not to blow through the aluminum.
    Good Luck
     
  11. cktasto
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 313

    cktasto
    Member

    thanks everybody, I'm going to find some thicker AL to practice on and give it a blast.
    Appreciate the advice.

    CT
     
  12. john~N~dallas
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 412

    john~N~dallas
    Member

    Wow several people here have dial arcs!! That makes me smile ... Although I have not welded aluminum with mine yet I love my dialarc 250 HF and am glad to see other using them too.. Post up some pics of your beads


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     

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