Another 65 Dodge altered wheelbase project build

I picked up this 65 Coronet 2 dr H/T back in October to begin an altered wheelbase car.
After a couple weeks of sanding, grinding, and stripping undercoating and seam sealer, the cutting began.
I have the technical bulletin from Chrysler in 1964 and am trying to do most of the things the same way they did.
Original cars were built with a 15" relocation at the rear wheels and a 10" relocation at the front.
I opted to move the rear section forward 19" without sacrificing cutting the door pillar area, and I plan on using an A-100 van front straight axle at 10" forward.
Enclosed are a few pics as I have tried to document everything from the beginning to whenever it ends

 

looks good so far why the 19 inches

 

"If some's good, and more's better, then too much is just enough!"

 

not if you have ever driven one.

 

Bitchin. Love those AWB cars.

 

Great start !!!!! Have loved those car's from back in the day !!!!!
Please keep posting.

 

Subscribed. HRP

 

The difference between the dodge and ply is one inch. How the sheet metal is I don't know but the wb is one inch. I think the al vanderwoude car had a few extra inches. I have driven several awb cars and the extra offset will be noticeable when driven. It's all about weight distribution not a look.

 

Does the Factory Bulletin state anything about the rear to front weight percentages they were trying to attain? More wasn't necessarily better if thry had to ballist the front end to keep the front down on leaving the line.

 

i love the 65 awbs ived owned a few 65 dodges and plymouths (2 door hartops and 4 doors of each) none of mine were awbs though

id have to aggree with racer x i mean after all he does own the one in his avatar he if anyone should know on here

the more over hang you have the easier it will be to get the front wheels to lift its kinda like driving a over loaded pick up the front wheel dont make as much contact with the road so steering would be scetchy at best and with just alight blip of the throttle in any situation its gonna want to stand up it would be fun though, sometimes

good luck on the build ill be watching

thanks for using the dodge instead of another plymouth i love the plymouths and id love to find another satelitte so maybe the one you didnt use may end to be mine lol

 

Very cool. I love AWB B- body's. I'lll be watching this one closely.

 

The 64's had a 4in. wheelbase difference not the 65's they are only 1in. as RacerX stated.I think 19in. on the hardtop will look ungainly and awkward,but hay it's your car.Your not narrowing the A100 axle are you and you'll need shorter springs to get the 10in your after.

 

use the stock width axle. not only does it look right its safer. i would never use the stock springs. they are long wide and heavy. use trailer springs of the right length. get them as wide as the frame. use mopar perf offset shackles with a tube welded through the frame for the rear mounts. front mounts can be fabbed from boxed tubing with one side cut off. set the caster to 5-7 degrees and go run it. it concerns me you are going to street drive this car. the mods were done for racing. let me give you a senario. you are in the left turn lane and the arrow comes on. you give it some gas then hit a bump or pot hole. the front end will come up. you now cant steer.race tracks are smooth the same cant be said about a public road. towing back to the pits it was a normal deal to have the front end bouncing around like a pogo stick. i was booked in to atco one day and did a tune up on the original virginian awb. it was raining out and we wanted to just put around. i pulled out from the tent and stood the bitch up in the rain. its on video some where. and what goes up must come down. on the street if you need to bring it down quickly due to some unexpected bump you will break all kinds of things. with the extra rear end movement you may need to hang weight up front just to get it down the street. race cars are on the gas all the time you are not constantly shifting weight back and forth. i have been wittness to or involved in broken shock mounts,bent axles,torn and bent motor mounts,dented oil pans and one bent frame. you are going to put yourself and anyone around you in real danger just to provide some silly antics. these cars are not street toys. a word to the wise should be sufficient. there is a place for these cars and its on the track. and lastly these cars achieved legendary status because they had killer engines in them. to put some pussy motor in it just ruins the whole idea of a awb car. go play with a prius if you dont want power and want to street drive.

 

wow you tell a guy that you will take his advice then tell him to shut the fuck up ...you got some gall FNG

 

I agree with you Skicker, its yours and being built how you want! Lookin sick

 

im not trying to lower your project. i could care less what you build. i see you do all your own work and it looks good. you may have experience with hp thats great. now tell everyone how much time you have behind the wheel of a awb car and thats how you came up with these ideas. if you had any you would be considering why you went as far as you did in the rear. lets not forget you want to run a wedge and thats another one hundred pounds off the nose. this thing just gets more and more dangerous. you say you want to impress the street crowd with wheelies while having a mild engine in the car. thats like a pinto engine in a ford gt-40 or a slant six in a ronnie sox cuda. why go half ass. if you really want to impress the crowd run the thing at the track lay down some serious numbers and your rep will follow you to the drive in. like i said i dont care what you build. people are not stupid when they look at cars. if you push the axle up far enough on a prius it will pull wheelies. if the crowd looks at your car and says big deal this has no power only weight shifted around how does that make you the big man at the drive in. it seems like you are putting in a lot of work to not get the real deal in the end. my opinion was not only for you but for anyone else following this with the idea of also making a poor choice for the street. a opinion that was developed and earned from real seat time. and just for the record i like the home built cars the best. the wilder the better. the more hacked up the better the more inovation the better. im in the process of trying to do a duel fuel system to run nitro on the street. i like crazy cars but they need to handle in a safe manner. hats off to anyone who attempts to take on a project like yours. its not easy to do. im just trying to point out some things you may have over looked in your build. i agree its yours do it how you want just be safe. they didnt get a rep for being crazy to drive for nothing.

 

hey why hold back go all the way. do a center steer car with the drivers seat in the place once occupied by the rear seat like the tension car. acid dip it paper thin. go twenty on the set back so the gas pedal is on the passenger side. cut the top off like the melrose missile. lots and lots of holes every where. no need for a dash or door panels or windows. cut out that pretty floor you just put in. throw a jigger of hydrozine in the tank and turn it loose now that would get you noticed any where.

 

i think you read me wrong. i like the build. your work looks nice from the pics. what i dont like is the engine choice and the street driving. these cars made the biggest changes in the history of drag racing. the racing was legendary. they did this through the wildest engine combinations conceived. think injectors nitro hydrazine strokers blowers etc. to put in what amounts to a bracket engine in the car just dilutes the past and the very essence of the cars in the first place. it also sets you up for the never ending questions of didnt these cars run hemis. and why isnt it fast and how much power does it make. i think in the long run if you build it truer to what they were you would be happier in the long run. there would be no excuses. and you rep would be bigger by having the real deal.

 

Move 'em ahead another 4" and you'll be able pull a wheelie by just climbing in. Really impress the crowds.

 

question,why did you cut up the trunk floor like that?

 

Sure glad you're not trying to build a 94" WB Anglia with 800 HP,These guys would have you arrested!! Your car looks Bitchin, great work, It will drive just fine on the street,if you were to take the body off it so you didn't see the overhang,it would look just like the other 100000 hotrods that drive around everyday!! Chris

 

i would not build a anglia if you payed me. those things are short wheel base dangerous cars. being along side one at 180 mph when the crank came out the bottom was enough. the last i saw of it the car went across my lane and hit the wall. the thing was at least 30 feet in the air upside down. the guy couldnt hang on to that short pos. the car was destroyed. the guy did live to tell the tale only due to the good cage. morrocco,indiana parts plus summer nationals

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUSi1jESOlI

 

Tough crowd here.........
Till someone wants to kick in some serious squid, build it your way skicker
Looks good in my world tho

 

I like it alot,As for that pos anglia comment,What no full size dodge ever roll over on its top? get real RLS

 

Them's fightin' words!!

But I wouldn't want to be in an Anglia running 180 either.

 

Flopper ...........

 

Lemme see if I can get at least a link to an altered wb Dodge that I built a while ago...Clay just ran it at Indy..8.60s at 150something.........straight as an arrow...and yes, that is "Akron" Arlen Vanke standing behind the car .................
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DFkPOfLtRCkH2ZDh_ezJdyP7XroP42AHGNvAYTsaqoQ?feat=directlink
M.

 

Nice but AWB Mopar got to have a HEMI

 

This 1965 Dodge Coronet does have a hemi...