I've got my 47 Stylemaster moving back and forth on the driveway but I think I'm having timing issues. I've set the float levels on my Holley 390cfm carb and have the timing set on the bb on the flywheel. However, the car will move when I slowly feather the clutch but the engine totally chokes if I let the clutch out normally while revving and has problems attempting even the slightest incline. It seems to not like being under load. I've read that trying to set the timing with a light is maybe futile due to modern gas and I should set the timing by "feel". I've been driving stick shifts for years, so I'm familiar with clutch use. Any thoughts from you fine folk on this and maybe a brief tutorial on how to use this wizardry?
You might also want to check your vacuum advance. If it is not working it does not advance your timing on take off.
I'm with the advance issue. You set your timing for idle and it needs to move under load. Check the advance pot and vacuum tube. Just noticed I used the same link as above to install and set up the straight-6 in my 56!
What is the history of this engine? is it something that's been sitting for 40 years and you have just tried to get it running, or ?? any backfiring through the carb?? make sure the mechanical advance is working properly. make sure that the engine is at the proper rpm when setting with the timing light. You usually need to go back and forth between the carb and timing light a couple times till it reads correctly. vac advance is irrelevant, as you don't need it to drive. It's job is to retard the timimng when the engine is put under a load. In other words, when you take off, your vac signal goes to zero, so it's not doing anything anyway. Do you have a vacuum gage?
Vacuum advance is working. No backfiring through the carb. Sadly, no heat plate yet (thought I'd be up and running by now in the now gone Texas heat). Engine ran a few months ago when pulled from donor car. I've got some popping coming from the fenton headers. No exhaust system installed yet...I need to be able to drive the car up onto a trailer first to get it to the muffler shop! I'll fiddle with the timing a little more this evening. If anything I may have it advanced too far. But oh man, even on the driveway that 65 year old brake system scares the crap out of me! LOL Front disc brake conversion kit is now on my whiteboard!
I'm in agreement with a vacuum leak..... What is the idle speed rpm ? Disc brakes, absolutely !! 4TTRUK
You may also want to re-set the valve lash...that's a BIG difference maker. I would also be curious to know if the old brakes are locking up?
If nothing seems to be amiss with the distributor and the timing, I'd look at the carburetor again. When you say that the engine "chokes" do you sense that it's running too rich or is it leaning out? Is the choke in fact staying fully open when things are warmed up a bit? Not exactly sure which carb you've got but is the power valve or power piston working freely, or is it possibly sticking open or closed? Any chance of the float leaking and having fuel in it?
Well, I played with the timing a little more and it is improving. Still not there yet, but it's not throwing as much of a pissy fit when it is under load. The vacuum advance is pulling the dizzy ok when engine is revved. I'm guessing it's maybe a question of nailing down the timing and dialing in the carb. I may have to recruit someone to help me out. There appears to be a definite art form to tweaking it just right. I'm trying to find somewhere I can get a heat riser plate. I have a Clifford Research 6=8 intake and I'm having trouble finding someone who sells such a plate. I've seen loads for the stock intake, etc but none that will work on mine. Are they all a standard size? Oh, I got the brakes figured out. I had the bolt that attaches the pedal the wrong way around where it was hitting the transmission linkage. Turned it around and now I have functional brakes. 8o)
Not sure what you're running for spark plugs. But you may need to go with a slightly hotter rating. Especially if you're running a different cam. At least worth checking out. You may want to contact Clifford and get their read on your situation. Once you get it dialed in, you'll love it. Have this same setup in my '51 Chevy and it runs like a scalded ape on full throttle.
hook a vac gage up to manifold vac. If its bouncing all over, you have a leak or valve lash or valve guide problem. You can also use it to help adjust your idle mixture also. What carb are you using? Not all Clifford intakes have a provision for attaching something to the bottom.
If you're worried about carb icing or feel you need a little heat in the intake manifold you might consider splicing a section of copper pipe into a heater hose. Re-route things a bit and strap the copper pipe under the intake manifold, especially near the base of the carb.
Well, after some tinkering I got it running! Turns out it was the float levels in the carb. I thought I had them set but obviously I was wrong. Now I just got to bring my radiator to the shop to have it cleaned out. The car turns into a steam engine after 15 minutes or so and I think its just crud in the radiator. I had an issue with it overheating last week and flushed out the radiator and discovered seeds, acorns, etc. The issue went away and the radiator was warm across its surface. Now its just hot at the top again and has a big cold spot. It has a new waterpump and thermostat, so I'm thinking it *is* the radiator. Ah well, one problem solved only to discover another. Isn't that how it always goes? 8o)
Came Across This Old Thread... I Have A 1952 Chevy 235 That Has Idling Issues.. It Will Run At Full Choke But Not After I Push Choke In. If I Disconnect Choke Cable I Get This Back Fire , Popping Carb An Blackish Smoke Coming Out Of Pipes.. I Believe I Have Timing Issue An Carb Adjustment Needs... Probably Needing New Cap, Rotor An Points An Condenser Too.. After It Stalls It Wont Start.. Acting As If Has Dead Battery. I'm 41 An Don't Know Much About These As I Do A V-8... How Do You Time These? I Know You Have To Line Up A Spot On Firewall An Hole In Trans Case.