56 chevy truck, flip kit question

bought a 56 chevy truck with a 70's 12 bolt rearend, it sits below the leaf springs and i want to get the flip kit to put it on top, would i need to c notch the frame or will i have enough clearance without bottoming out too bad?

 

You have to "C" notch it for clearance, and keep all the leaves in the springs or it will bottom out.

 

If you are leaving the stock springs (in good shape?) and hangers in place, you should be able to flip it with no notch. I flipped mine, used a dropped hanger/leaf spring kit and only needed a 1-inch notch. I don't load up my bed too heavy though.

 

so did the 56 originally come with the rearend on the bottom or top? im not sure because it has a later rearend. anyway if i can flip it without cutting the frame id be happy. if not ill just settle for some drop shackles

 

Why don't you just stick a tape measure from the bottom of the spring to the bottom of the rearend. Now take that measurement and put it on top of the leaf spring between the frame. What's left and how much travel do you want ? At least 3 inches should be a minimum but of course that won't take a load dropped in the back.

 

It depends on the shape of the frame and the springs you use. I recently got away with not notching a 47 Dodge PU because the frame was already narrowed from the factory. I modified a TCI Ford kit to fit the Dodge and ended up with 3" of travel available. You can use add on load leveler air bags for running with heavy stuff in the bed. That said, notching a truck frame is not usually that hard if you have a welder.

 

Notch it ! You'll thank us later.

 

It won't sit on the frame but it will be very close. There's not enough room for the stock bump stops. Has anything been done to the front? Because by flipping that rear you have to figure the diameter of axle and thickness of the spring pack is your drop. Taildragger!
Go ahead and plan for some kind of notch, you'll be glad you did.


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Bottom

 

long story short, if you are going to do that, notch it. It would be stupid not to and could wind up causing a lot of damage, so just do it. There is a reason they designed it like they did, if you want to change how the rear end sits in it then you need to change the frame as well.

 

good stuff, thanks for all the info gents

 

I've got mine flipped to the top of the springs, its a 62 impala 10 bolt, without the body on the frame and the bump stops cut I've got nearly 5 inches of clearance. Hopefully its enough

 

really, can you post a pic

 

Its pouring rain down here right now, Ill see what I can do by tomorrow

 

you will need to notch it, when i did mine i put some 2x1 box inside the rails, then put some 1/4 wall tube in the notched part, and then boxed the open side of the rail with 1/4 plate

 

Look at LMCtrucks.com - they have some good pictures in their catalog(s)

 

?

How did you weld it in? Did you rosette weld it?

 

...another way, remove the rear spring hangers, flip them so they mount on the top of the frame rail, used lowering shackles, mount rear on top of springs, no need for a notch.