How many people are going to have to tell you the P/V is in the wrong place before you fix it? You need to put your big boy pants on and fix this problem. The new softer and gentler HAMB obviously isn't getting the message across with this new guy.
Thanks for this, I see the FORUM has 6 people on it right now, must be a real wealth of information. There must be 600,000 HAMB members from around the world on right now all trying to help and the O/P isn't listening, WTF!
First place I'd be looking myself is the pushrod from that booster into the master cylinder. Sounds like is too short and not engaging the master. I too would rip the booster out and trow it as far across the yard as I can! I can't imagine the need for a power booster on a sub 2000 lb car. The prop valve goes in the rear line, period. If the residual checks are not built into the master, you need a 10 rear and a 2lbs front. 11/8" is positively huge for a master bore, 1" would be my starting point. Going larger means it pumps more volume, but with a more "wooden" or solid pedal feel and lower pressure. Going smaller will put out less volume but with greater line pressure and a lot more "feel". On the whole, I would be almost willing to bet money that the power booster and master cylinder are mismatched as far as the plinger rod goes and it's just simply not depressing the master cylinder a full stroke.
That exact thing happened to me a few years back on a model A. I was so baffled until I took the whole thing apart again and notice the pushrod wasn't long enough to work with my new booster. I had never seen this issue before.
Have you considered placement of the master cylinder in relation to its original plumbing positioning? Generally, it has been my experience the master cylinder is turned 180 degrees to its original positioning. That means, when plumbing the mc, the rear brakes are now plumbed to the mc outlets that are closest to the front of the vehicle and the front are now plumbed to the rear outlets. Hope this is helpful. Jack
It wont help you add rear brake, its ment to remove rear brake so they don't lock up before the fronts...sounds more like your not getting full pedal...could be its not pushing in all the way(to short) ....or (to long) if its not pulling back all the way its not allowing the fluid to fill back into the cylinder... speedways simple diagram is attached
Sir, this may not actually fix your problem, but I want you to lay out the system correctly and then we can help diagnose it OK. You can see in the picture above from the Speedway catalog page what I mean. So let's get the system plumbed and laid out correctly and then step by step diagnose the problem. This is what I meant by the basics earlier. Think of it as a wiring harness. You can't figure out why the radio doesn't work, if it is wired to the fuel pump relay, see what I mean. I am really trying to help, not bust your balls. If you bench bled the M/C correctly and it is or can hold pressure against the plugs in the ports, let's now move down the line. Crack open the fittings starting with the M/C and work forward and back. If the pressure is holding at the M/C, unless there is a restriction in one of the lines, it should be providing pressure eventually to the wheel cylinders. The R/V's must be installed the correct direction as well, and with all the Chinese junk out there who knows if they are even any good brand new.
Maybe you need help with the actual bleeding proceedure. You need to pump SLOWLY!!!. I have talked about this many times. The best way is to open the M/C and watch the bubbles as you pump back and forth slowly. People over stroke and push the pedal too far and this defeats the purpose. Push slowly until the bubbles start in the chamber farthest away from the plunger and hold it there. Let the bubble stop rising and crack open the bleeder farthest from the M/C. Keep repeating and work your way closer to the M/C and let us know if you get any pedal. There is a LOT of controversey regarding brake bleeding, but I get my info from a Braking Engineer friend of mine. I never have asked for help with my brakes on the forum and have helped many others so you decide.
Which port goes to which end is determined by the master cylinder used and which way it was designed to be used. Older master cylinders for disc/drum brakes had a larger reservoir for the disc portion because the pistons move in to compensate for pad wear so more fluid is needed to fill them. Newer masters have an external reservoir that feeds both ends until the level drops. I don't know which master cylinder the kit uses. Corvettes had disc brakes at both ends sooner than most vehicles.
The Jalopy Journal
