Am I nuts to go back to a 216

I'm getting my 53 redone in Illinois and will try to drive it out to colorado. It has 235 low pressure motor runs good but will be an adventure. I'll keep you posted. An old chevy guy told me as long as I have good oil pressure I should be good as long as I don't go to fast on highway?

 

I think I went too far in my driveline changes to ever think about using a 216 again since they need some rpms,with a original driveline they are not quite right for todays highway speeds and with too tall of gears might explode for not getting enough oil by spinning he motor too slow. Probably been a waste of time thinking one could work so back to thinking about a new 235.

 

235 chevy 6cyl with a T-5 manual tranny is the only way to go!
216's were made to go 40 mph tops.

 

I am trying to find the early 235 with the side cover but I think its going to take a long time so the extra 56 235 will be going on the stand to see how good it is and will most likely go in if checks out,did hear the 59 to 62 cams are better for low end torque then the 58 on back so I am going to look more into that,my 57 motor likes to be spinning some to really run good so there might be some truth to that. Gave up on the idea of a 216 since I would probably not like one.

 

Take the 216 to the junkyardjeff.

 

with the wrong gears yes,I have 355's and do 60-65 all day long

 

so not to hy-jack the thread but ....... just a quick Q, pm me the info if you like of if its ok with Jeff ,what are you guys running for rear axel housings and open or closed drive lines (is there a conversion for open driveline from a banjo to stock rear?) ( 40 chev pu for any one interested ) thanks in advance to all , specially junk yard Jeff

 

In the early '80s, I drove a '53 Chevy standard shift car with a babbit 235 35 miles one way to work every day without a problem. That being said, three ways to keep a 216 alive in modern traffic are:

1. lower numeric gear ratio than the stock 4.11
2. replace the stock cast iron pistons with aluminum to lessen the load on the rod bearings
3. replace stock babbitted rods with insert rods

I still find n.o.s. aftermarket 216 rods that have been machined for insert bearings now and then (they used TRW #CB503P bearings). A couple of the old Chevy speed manuals say that the babbit bearings were the main cause of failure, not the oiling system. If the nozzles are aimed correcty, and you find some insert rods to use, there's no reason the engine shouldn't live. Guys run around with modified T and A engines every day, for Christ's sake.....you should be able to with a 216.

 

I love my 216. Going 40 sucks but i never drive on freeways anyways. Makes the cute more xhallenging being a contractor so when the jobs are 20+ miles it is interesting

 

sounds like you never had a 216 to compare the 2. you would know the answer

 

This looks like sound advise to me. I'm in the process of installing a 3.55 rear end in my 49 Fleetline other than that everything is stock. I have been on the fence about the whole full pressure 235 vs keeping the stock 216. After reading all these posts I'm going to keep the 216 and do these engine upgrades when the time comes.

 

I drive my 51 Chevy coupe almost every day, 216 with a 3 speed bone stock still 6 volts.. I ditched the generator and put a 6volt alternatere ( big difference never a dead battery).. She runs great on th freeway, I stay in the slow lane but she cruises 55 all day everyday! I bounce back and forth with my 48 chevy truck with a later 235 other then the little extra get up and go, they both cruise the same I can't really tell the difference to be honest!!

 

I have only driven 216s on farm fields and not the road,I have heard too many horror stories about them and a little leary about taking one down the highway. I have 3.55 gears and a T-5 and wondering if a 216 would have enough torque on the highway in 5th.