The biggest problem with cheap crimp connectors is the thickness of the material. In the case of 1/4" spade connectors (male or female) this can be a huge issue, as they often bend or break while trying to push them together. The barrel modification wont make a cheap connector work better if it's too thin. Buying good quality T&B, Stakon, or other name brand connectors will ensure they wont bend or break when pushing them together. Even with insulated connectors you need to make sure the indenter on a crimping tool is on the closed side of the connector. You can look inside the barrel end and see which side is the open ends before crimping. I still use heat shrink on the barrel part of insulated connectors, as I like the extra protection and support it gives the first inch of the wire.
I use these USA MADE connectors at 13 cents each and then heat shrink. http://www.connectorsupply.com/cata....html?osCsid=2f67b7fec61cef5128b750141125e158
I use both inslated and uninsulated terminals (with shrink tube). I don't see much difference between the two as far as securing the wire. The biggest thing to me is getting the right size for the wire and having good tools - i use klien or t&b and i have a couple ratcheting crimpers but prefer the klien or t&b. I'll use uninsuated with heat shrink when i have a couple wires going into a connector - like when daisy chaining for dash panel lights etc - with uninsulated and shrink tube you can be sure the wires are in full depth.
I've picked up the heat shrink insulated connectors at Harbor Freight, if you catch them on sale they are a real steal. I agree that a lot of the Harbor Freight stuff is junk but thier connectors have worked well for me.
I've always heard those style terminals referred to as "Packard" or "Packard style" terminals. (Have no idea if that is correct) I've used them quite a bit and used to struggle with getting a good, professional crimp on them. I once priced the official Packard crimping tool and it was somewhere in the $200 range if my memory is correct. I believe that it made both crimps at one time. I ended up getting this pair from the MAC tool guy (for a lot le$$) and it does a great job. The double pivot jaws have the dies come down exactly straight and these make a really nice crimp. It takes two different operations to change position for the insulation crimp and the conductor crimp, but the tabs get rolled properly for just the right 'bite' without deforming the terminal. It also makes perfect crimps on Weatherpack sealed connector/terminals (not traditional). I also have the ratchet crimpers with the dies, but I like the MAC ones for the Packard terminals. I use the ratchet crimpers on the common insulated terminals and have not had problems with loose or bad connections. A bit clumsy in tight places... Just my 2c. Bill
Thats a nice looking pliers. I'll have to look into that one. You are right, the ratcheting ones are pain if your working in tight areas.
If you solder your terminals be sure to use rosin-core wire, not acid core. I have used marine-grade tinned primary wire and marine-grade terminals for many projects. More expensive, but then wiring is one place you don't want to go cheesy or cheap. CQ
Hello All, I apologize for resurrecting an old thread, but I really need some advice. I purchased some of these flag terminals for a DIY project and I am unsure on what type crimping tool is needed for them. I am not a professional, so I am looking for something reasonably priced. Here is the specs for them: https://www.digikey.com/product-det...amp-connectors/1742595-1/A118918CT-ND/4895051
I save money on connectors and tools.............just twist em together and let her go..........now that there is traditional!
I agree with most of this, and have bought from one of the mentioned vendors. But I prefer AMP brand terminals,splices etc.
if you can find them panduit makes connectors with a solid barrel end as they are Mil and aerospace spec . but they are $$$ and like I said if you can find them .. the tool for those are not cheap ( about $75 ) you should contact the source for the proper tool needed digikey sells the dies for $50 you can call these guys and they should help you they need the fastener name and number http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/FDT1005.htm
I have a decent assortment of Dorman crimp terminals that I use all over my car. I picked up a nice lug crimp tool at Advance Auto Parts for around $30. It ratchets, can be adjusted and makes a nice crimp. Anything under the hood I sleeve using the Harbor Fright shrink sleeve, had gooey stuff in it and seals up well.
I like to use uninsulated stainless steel high temperature crimp connectors. They use them in the appliance repair business on bake elements and other stuff. I'll try to post more details later. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
These are called "environmental splices" They are used in aircraft, and are just about the best you can get. -Randy Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I did see this post but wasn't sure if this would be the proper crimp tool. These tools (and dies) are very expensive and I just don't want to buy the wrong set. I am very new to all of this, so I apologize for the aggravation. Anyone know if these would be suitable? https://www.waytekwire.com/item/428/Imperial-IE-150-Multi-Purpose-Crimper-Tool/
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