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First Paint Job; Need Tools!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bulletpruf, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. bulletpruf
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 235

    bulletpruf
    Member

    Fellas -

    Plan to paint my one of my classics and believe that's an excuse to purchase some new tools. Car is in pretty good shape, but needs some dents worked out, minor rust repair. Think I'm going to do a "scuff and shoot" over the existing paint.

    Anyway, in addition to the normal hand tools, I have a DA orbital sander, DeVilbiss HVLP "Finish Line" gun (1.3, 1.5, 1.8 tips), 80 gallon compressor, MIG welder (Miller 211), cutoff wheel, sheetmetal nibbler, die grinder, etc.

    Figure I need:

    Hammers and dollies - what about this set from Eastwood - http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html

    Also need some sanding blocks, right? How 'bout these - http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html

    What about an air sander? http://www.eastwood.com/straight-line-air-sander.html

    And a palm sander?

    I have a pair of the metal stands that can be used to support bumpers, fenders, decklids, doors, etc while you are working on them.

    Suppose I'll need a pile of sandpaper as well as masking tape and paper.

    What did I miss? Recommendations on the above list?

    Thanks,

    Scott
     
  2. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Scott,
    It looks like you've got a pretty good selection on tools already to work with, but I'd caution against buying anything in a "kit'' tool wise! Kits usually contian one or two tools you actually need, with the balance of the kit made up of tools you may only use once or twice, but you're payin for the whole deal:(
    I'd suggest maybe one body hammer, like a pick hammer, and a ''general purpose'' dolly. As sanding blocks go you can get by with maybe two. One about 6'' & another maybe 12''-14''. Great sanding blocks can be made from soft wood scraps like pine and balsa wood. The air file you've pictured is probably of o.k. quality, but you may be able to find a source closer to your home with a cheaper, better quality. Real ,duty rated air files run well over twohundred dollars today!

    Good luck,

    " Spending a nation into generational debt is not an act of compassion "
     
  3. Paper wrapped around a paint paddle works great for sanding flat surfaces. HRP
     
  4. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    hammer and dolly set looks fine, the set has pretty much all you'll need for a while--but I'd go with the martin's if it were me (I've been buying 1 a year for hte last several years)--I'd also spring for the "metal bumping" book they offer. if you're new to body work it's a good place to start the the "how to" and background.

    the inline sande sander is probably ok too. I'm using one from lowe's hardware 15 years ago.

    the link for sanding blocks is the same as the hammer/dolly kit so can't commen, but I'd reccomend a a short and long board sander, a small 3m block and you can grab an assortment of found foam blocks--ie pool noodle. HRP's right about the paint paddle--they also work great for gapping your panels. you can get these wherever you buy your paint or from the tool tables at your local swap meets, but he one's the paint shop sells are nicer and last longer.



    if you've got the DA you don't NEED the palm sander, but if you want it...
     

  5. Nitro-Nicky
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 28

    Nitro-Nicky
    Member

    I didn't see you list a really good instructional video for body and prep work. That's probably worth more than most of your tool all in a pile. Also, one of my favorite tools is the 'Weld-on Stud Gun'. Then comes the flat boards.
    Seriously- most people just don't spread the 'bondo' far & wide enough and ruin a good flat panel, or don't know what type of filler to use, or accidently contaminate the surface at the very introduction of sandpaper, guarenteeing problems with the paint weeks later.
    Knowing how to flatboard and to cross hatch correctly does wonderful repayment for your time efforts! And with today's paint materials it's critical to know your prepwork planing in advance than ever before. I love painting my own stuff though, and wish you the very best!!! Nitro-Nicky
     
  6. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,179

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    as stated above, you need a good instructional video and search threads here on bodywork & paint. prep will make or break the final paint job. plus, if leaving original paint you need to make sure that there is nothing being hidden under that paint. also, is it good quality paint. primers, sealers, etc all need to compatible with paint/clear coat.
    have fun but, take your time.
     
  7. bulletpruf
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 235

    bulletpruf
    Member

    Thanks, fellas. Very helpful.

    Scott
     
  8. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    all good points. I take for granted that I had someone to teach me the ropes. Thanks dad :)

    QUOTE=Nitro-Nicky;8511037]I didn't see you list a really good instructional video for body and prep work. That's probably worth more than most of your tool all in a pile. Also, one of my favorite tools is the 'Weld-on Stud Gun'. Then comes the flat boards.
    Seriously- most people just don't spread the 'bondo' far & wide enough and ruin a good flat panel, or don't know what type of filler to use, or accidently contaminate the surface at the very introduction of sandpaper, guarenteeing problems with the paint weeks later.
    Knowing how to flatboard and to cross hatch correctly does wonderful repayment for your time efforts! And with today's paint materials it's critical to know your prepwork planing in advance than ever before. I love painting my own stuff though, and wish you the very best!!! Nitro-Nicky[/QUOTE]
     
  9. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    If this is your first time to do bodywork and paint, I suggest a refrigerator with some cold refreshment, a comfortable chair, and a radio with soothing music. All of these will come into play as you sit, look, and contemplate, how it is that you have worked so long and hard already, and there is so much left to do. HRP suggestion about the sandpaper on a stick is really great, tape on the fingers will help preserve your fingerprints.
     
  10. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 549

    jimbousman
    Member

    I'm liking this.

    Also don't chinse on the tape or sandpaper. The cheap stuff just makes extra work.
     
  11. bulletpruf
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 235

    bulletpruf
    Member

    Fellas -

    Got the Martin 7 piece hammer and dolly kit with fiberglass handles. $196 at Summit or $226 at autobodytoolmart.com - http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/martin-7-piece-hammer-dolly-set-p-13681.aspx

    I went with the Dura-Block 7 piece kit for $60 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ard-tai-af44l/overview/
    Added a 24" Dura-Block for $28 - http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dura-block-24-x-2-34-sanding-block-p-12944.aspx

    What about sandpaper? Looks like I can get rolls of 3M "stikit" stuff, but it's not cheap at $45/roll. What flavors/grits will I need?
    http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-stikit-gold-sheet-2-34-sandpaper-rolls-p-11340.aspx

    I'll pick up some 3M tape and masking paper. Any particular flavor that I need?

    I also picked up a Martin book on metal bumping for $12. I probably need to order a video as well, but figure youtube.com should have some good videos

    I have a regulator and water trap on my compressor now (80 gallon Quincy 230 volt), but do I have to spend $500 on a new dryer and filter? http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dev...t-air-dryerfilter-system-ct-plus-p-15078.aspx

    Or can I use a Harbor Freight one for $50? http://www.harborfreight.com/38-desiccant-dryer-with-oil-removal-filter-69923.html

    I have to replace my hose for this job, right? Think I saw somewhere that I shouldn't use my old air hose for painting.

    Stud gun looks like a good piece of gear, but I don't have any large dents on this car that I'm aware of. Just some small dings in the trunk and tops of the fenders and quarters from some hail. Do you use a stud gun on small dents like this?

    Thanks,

    Scott
     
  12. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 549

    jimbousman
    Member

    There are other brands out there but you can't go wrong with 3M.
     
  13. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    Check out tcpglobal.com and lehigh valley abrasives
     
  14. Keep
    Joined: May 10, 2008
    Posts: 662

    Keep
    Member

    Do not forget a good comfortable respirator/filter. Easier just to buy a full mask as its a pain working with the half mask and glasses.

    If you go to your local home paint store (not Home depot) they will sell your masking plastic much much cheaper then the big box stores. You will need the plastic to mask your garage if you are spraying in there.
     
  15. ctfordguy
    Joined: Mar 17, 2011
    Posts: 98

    ctfordguy
    Member

    Sooooo...Can someone recommend a good paint instructional video for a first time painter? I will start with the frame and move on from there
    Bruce/CT
     
  16. Car Craft has several articles on "how to paint your car at home".

    Get some good paper for masking, don't use newspaper, it will bleed through.
     
  17. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,463

    CharlieLed
    Member

    http://smartflix.com

    These guys have a wide variety of DIY videos. I highly recommend the Paintucation series that features Kevin Tetz. Kevin is a master body and paint man and shows you everything from panel repair/replacement to show quality color sanding techniques. He even covers the correct usage of panel adhesives and shows how they compare to the old school welding techniques. You will learn a lot more by seeing the work performed than you ever will reading posts.
     
  18. bulletpruf
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 235

    bulletpruf
    Member

    Thanks fellas. Very helpful.

    Any ideas on a inexpensive dryer and filter for my compressor?

    Scott
     
  19. b-bob
    Joined: Nov 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,097

    b-bob
    Member

    I would like to add, i put away my air-board years a go and only use my 17" wood bodied sanding board now. Bondo shouldn't be that thick in the first place and the extra muscle it takes gives better control.
    If you have to use an air-board, just use it to get the general shape and then stop and do the rest by hand to get it perfect. Just my experience, works for me.
    Practise and experience will teach you a lot. Good luck.
     
  20. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,463

    CharlieLed
    Member

    Water in the air lines is a result of the heated air coming from the compressor cooling in the tank and hoses. In keeping with the cheapskate in most of us, I use an air conditioning condenser (radiator) off an old Cadillac in my air line to cool the compressed air before it hits the hoses. That, coupled with a water separater that I wear on my belt when painting, really keeps the water in the air line to a minimum. You get a lot more humidity in the South than we do here in SoCal so you should benefit even more from this setup. I have seen some guys run a whole grid of copper tubing attached to the wall of their shop/booth to get the air cooled down to the point that the water will condense prior to entering the hose. Whatever you can do to reduce the heat in the air will help to dry it.
     
  21. I'm also working on my first solo bodywork and paint job for the last three months, but from my experience I would suggest buying the bare essentials to start off and expanding as you find that you need a tool to get the job done. I bought a few items and as I'm getting some work done, I'm realizing I didn't use some items as much and probably could of gotten the job done without them. Doesn't hurt that I get my tools on the cheap as I work for NAPA! :D

    As for a moisture trap and air dryer. I started with a good general purpose filter and a coalescing filter plus a pressure regulator. Air dryers are expensive and there are ways to get by without them. Starting out, I had my setup wrong. Run a rubber hose from the compressor to my filters then split to my outlets. As I was sandblasting I was getting moisture in the lines. The moisture was vapor in the line and the filters work best at trapping condense water droplets. After researching the HAMB and other sites, I built some 25´ pipe runners along the ceiling & drain valves (allows the moisture to cool before going to through the filters) and haven't had a problem since.

    Do lots of research, but (like me) you learn by trial and error!
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2013
  22. 302aod
    Joined: Dec 19, 2011
    Posts: 275

    302aod
    Member
    from Pelham,Tn.

    The diaphragm in my Harbor Freight reg. lasted a couple weeks. I cut one out of an inner tube and haven't put it back on my compressor yet. The things I buy from Eastwood I try to buy on sale, because they are so high.
     

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