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1939 Chev Gasser - style

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fatbrosracing, Dec 15, 2012.

  1. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    I decided a while ago to mount the engine with an Ansen style front plate. This would give me better steering box clearance and the ability to run a different style of engine in the future if I wanted.

    I made it out of aluminium plate, welded together, and incorporating the mount for the alternator. The mounts are from an early Chevy front mount kit.
     

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  2. kelzweld
    Joined: Jul 25, 2007
    Posts: 295

    kelzweld

    I better give you something to look at soon then haha. Good call on the front mount. I'm now thinking I would have been better off to do something similar for steering box clearance.
     
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  3. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Last major mod to the chassis was a more substantial front crossmember to resist the loads of the new front spring arrangement. The original front member had been modified a lot and was still held in place by the bolts. The new one is two inch square heavy wall tube, welded and braced to the frame. I also include some threaded bungs for the radiator support panel.
     

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  4. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Off to my mate "Red" the blaster, found a few minor things that needed more work/repairs. Painted the chassis with POR-15, I have used this product before with brilliant results, this time, not so good. It had minor bubbling in the final finish, but it will be hard to see when the car is assembled, so I'm not really worried.
     

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  5. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Final assembly of painted, plated, finished components is always good. You can see the results of your hours in the shed getting covered in crap. New disc rotors, bushes, and tie rod ends, rebuilt callipers with new hoses and pads.
     

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  6. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Rear end is exactly the same as the previous build, 31 spline 9 inch with 4.56 gears and a locker. I rebuilt the callipers, new rotors, bearings and lines. A fresh coat of paint doesn't hurt either
     

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  7. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    The finished rolling chassis.
     

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    volvobrynk likes this.
  8. Pasta
    Joined: Aug 16, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Pasta
    Member

    Damn, that's gonna be cool! Nice job!

    Pasta
     
  9. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,218

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    that's sweet...post more pictures.....
     
  10. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks mate.
     
  11. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks for the positive comment, will post more soon
     
  12. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Put the cab back on the chassis and dummied in the roll bar to set up the new seats. These will be trimmed in the same red tuck n roll as the rest of the car.
     

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  13. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    I have lost interest in racing this car at the moment, so I'm going to fit a milder carburettored engine. To push the fun level up a notch a 4-speed will take the place of the glide. This required 2 alterations, a bigger hole in the floor for the shift, and a modification to the pedal box for a clutch set-up.

    I know the Vertical Gate shift isn't really gasser material, but I really miss rowing gears with this thing. I bought it new years ago and had it in my Monaro. I had to make a new mount to get it higher in the car and further back. It will still be a stretch, cause I'm on the wrong side of the car for this shifter.
     

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  14. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    I was going to make a new rear bumper, so I had to make a new rear panel and rear pan to suit. I made this from Aluminium sheet, the chassis was drilled and tapped to hold it in place. The holes in the middle are for the fuel pumps, filters and lines.

    I put some holes along the rear to let out trapped air, and they look cool. I made some radius dies from cast metal photocopier optical flywheels ( I work for Xerox ) I made a small test piece first and they came up ok with some adjustments, so I continued with the rear pan.
     

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  15. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    The new rear bar is made from 2 1/2 inch ally tube to mimic the push bars of the true gassers. I've drilled and tapped holes and fitted stainless steel bolts from the inside and turned up some caps that are a interference fit in the ends. the brackets will probably be done in black, but they may get a polish, undecided at this stage.
     

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  16. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    The new rear panel is nearly the same as the old one. It fits a little neater and the lower edge fits to a rolled edge on the rear pan. Tail-lights are universal truck/trailer unit fitted to a bucket with a black powder coated aluminium ring.
     

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  17. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    That's about it for a little while, off to the U.S. for GNRS and Sacramento Autorama, and a bit of touristy stuff in between. I hope to finish the rear guards when I get back.
     
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  18. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Nice bit of progress Chris, looking good bud, have a great time in the states and take lots of pics please. Wish i could meet you there :(
     
  19. hotrod--willys
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 531

    hotrod--willys
    Member

    Hello Fatbrosracing. Here are a couple of photos of my 1939 Chevy coupe build that has never been completed. Check out the stock 39 Chevy strait front axle. The rear end is Olds 4:56 posi. The car has a 427cu in 435 hp BBC
     

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    volvobrynk likes this.
  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,719

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    That's some beautiful work there! Need to get that Chevy finished and hit the road with it!
     
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  21. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Do you still own this? it would be nice to see it finished.
     
  22. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Had to catch up on some projects for mates after our holiday, so the progress has been hit and miss at best. I did get to make a nice set of headers for a Flathead Caddy though.

    The rear fenders never really worked for me, I used them because I had them. I figured I could make them better looking. I cut the right angled edge off, annealed them, and with hammer and dolly work, formed them to a nicer shape.

    I am very much a novice at this type of work, so any advice / criticism welcomed.
     

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  23. kelzweld
    Joined: Jul 25, 2007
    Posts: 295

    kelzweld

    I like the change to the fender lip. Looks good :)
     
  24. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks mate, I see your is coming along, I've been getting side tracked a bit lately, but I get stuff done when I can.
     
  25. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    I decided a change in the exhaust was required. The headers are the same ones I ran on the original blown engine, overkill for the aspo motor, but the new blown engine will need them.

    They used to just bend back under the rail, reduce from 4 inch to 3 and continue through the mufflers to the rear. If I wanted to run uncorked I had to remove the entire exhaust and I made some 4 inch dump pipes to go out under the running board.

    Now with no running board, I figured the classic dump would be the go. This way the exhaust can stay intact and I'll just have to remove the block-off plates. I made the plates from aluminium, ball milled the face and rounded all the edges so they look cast, not billet.
     

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    neilswheels likes this.
  26. brian55lvr
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 603

    brian55lvr
    Member
    from ma

  27. guitard
    Joined: May 16, 2012
    Posts: 198

    guitard
    Member

    F yes. Such a totally different vibe now.
     
  28. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks Guys, really appreciate it.
     
  29. Fatbrosracing
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 242

    Fatbrosracing
    Member
    from Australia

    Next on the "To Do" list was the new motor. Not exactly new, but the original blown motor's short block, repaired and freshened.
    This time it will be carbureted, so a lift in compression was required from the original 8.2:1.
    For the blower, it had flat-top pistons and large chambered heads, so this time I used a set of "Fuelies" to go with the old time feel and it's now at 10.3:1.
     

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