Moving leafs inside framerail to get lower.

Looking at options, friend of mine told me they make a kit for 49-54 Chevy's to move the leafspring inboard of the frame rails and get a good drop by doing so. I cannot come across anything. I have all new Chassis Engineering rear suspension but not happy with how it sits. If I could reuse it and get lower by this method that would be great. Interested in seeing pics of anyone who has done it, kit or not. Thanks

 

Its a common practice on 55-56-57 Chevys, maybe thats what your friend is thinking of.

 

Are you planning to 'C' notch the frame? doesn't much matter how low you get it if the axle is up against the frame arch and you have no suspension travel.

Ray

 

As Hnstray said it's only going to go so low without a C notch. Then you have to add clearance for the pumpkin and redo the driveshaft tunnel or it will hit in those two places.

Have you got lowering blocks on it with the springs? Or just the springs thinking it should be lower?

 

I have springs and blocks and of course I realize I have to do a notch and tunnel work, was just curious about relocating the springs inboard.

 

Really, not as common as I thought it would be. Just looking at it, moving mounts inside rails and up you could gain an easy 4" drop. No one is doing this?

 

Greaser, Just a thought,could you swap sides with the factory spring hangers? As in right
to left and left to right. This would move the spring to the inside of the frame.

..................Jack

 

No it won't. They mount under the frame rail.

 

why not 4 link it and add coil overs?
if you are going to do all that work you might as well

 

or if you really want to keep your leafs build your own mounts just like if you were building the lower 4 link mounts on the inside of your frame, then do the same for the rear.


either way you go you will be doing an ass load of work.
from tunnel to trunk floor to frame to carpet
maybe even have to modify your back seat if you go low enough

 

I know you might not be headed this direction, but why not just bag it? I know that being super low is a GREAT idea, but I also know from driving super low cars, that it sucks to smash a rocker or fender bottom.

Static is king though, I understand that

 

I think you are talking about this.. Post #117. 235kid did it on his '53

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5104188

Let me know If this is what you mean


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Exactly, I was just curious if it was common and more people were doing it. I just have never been a fan of bagged cars, I think it is cool on a car that has rotted floors and trunk to begin with but have a hard time cutting up a good one. I just want to do what someone would have done in the 50's to get their Chevy low and drive it that way.

 

i think it makes total sense to do it 235kid's way... use stock components make a few brackets and minimal cost.. you get as low as you want.. if i was not bagging my car i would do it this way.. good luck with your build. john

 

http://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/item174312.ctlg

Try thesefolks.

 

So, these are made for old 4x4 Ford trucks. Why wouldn't something like this make it super easy to move leafs to inside of the frame and get alot lower doing it. They are $70 a pair. Or could make some. Opinions please.

 

If I remember correctly there is a dude on here building a custom 53 Chevy. I wanna say 37kid but that doesn't sound right. He moved the leaf springs inboard an it worked well. I think he used stock stuff too.


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Those parts seem like they would work and lower it about 1-2 inches. I like the idea!

 

Yeah, I want to try to design some perches that will just bolt into my stock spring perch locations and move them inboard. That way I am using the bottom rail of the frame for strength just like it is now and moving everything lower. Everyone seems to think I should just bag it, but why not be different. This is low buck and static lowered, the way it used to be. This guy is ising the stock mounting points but moved in to mount a 4 link arm, why not just build it a little wider and mount a leaf into it.

 

I have parallel leafs-the front mounts are inboard on the frame and the rear shackels are underneath the frame rail-so to look at it from behind-the springs are not really parallel-but pointed 'inward' at the front. The front 'pockets' have adjustment in the form of 4 adjustment holes spaced about an inch an a half apart vertically to give about a 6 inch vertical ride height adjustment. No ride or handling issues at all.

 

This method has been around for ever. A little more involved than Lowering Blocks. I've probably done it 15 times over the years. I think it was 1968 when I did my first one and an Old Timer then told me about it. On this car it involved moving the spare tire well forward. I've never done a 49-54 Chevy but would think it's very doable. Not all cars require raising the driveshaft tunnel. This one only needed it under the back seat cushion, not all the way. A little time under it with a tape measure and a lot of time eating Dirt. Other than that it's just another Job. Pay close attention to the Gas tank location. I've had issues there before also. I'm with you on the Air Bag thing.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks for the replies. Anyone done it on a 49-54 Chevy? I cant believe the 235KID is the only one on this board who has ever pulled it off.

 

The problem is that the Top Hat style frames lack the strength of a typical box channel rail. You are puttting lots of stress on the side of the rail that is rather thin to begin with. Choprods here gave me a great tip years ago. Since the 49-54 springs are narrow and prone to breakage he uses FRONT springs out of a Dodge Ramcharger. They come in 3 and 5 leaf. They are flat and lower the car a bunch. You just need to mount wider hangers in the stock location. Remember, the stock centering pin is NOT centered but offset.

 

Thats what I am running now, chassis engineering rear kit, dodge springs, modern leafs, still not as low as I thought it would be.

 

You didn't mention the Dodge Springs!

 

I didnt source out dodge springs, that is what chassis engineering uses with their rearleaf kits. This iswhat I am running now.

 

Greaser815 - I just bought that kit and actually got it in the mail not too long ago. I have my cousin rebuilding my rear end so I havent been able to put it on yet. How much did it lower the car? What size lowering block are you running with it? I'm just curious as to what your car looks like with it all installed.
Thanks,
Lalo

 

Well, before I had the kit I ran a torque tube and 3" blocks with two lowest leafs removed. The CE kit put my car where it was stock, kept telling me after 500 miles it will settle, never did after 3000 miles, running 3" blocks now and still not very low, I will get some current pics up.

 

So guys, really have been looking into options to do this easy and safely. Found this company AFCO, makes alot of race car chassis stuff. They offer leaf spring hangers for the front for $19.75 each, or could fab some up, whichever. I was thinking just flip them upside down, weld them to a nice plate and gusset it, make it strong and make it bolt to the stock bolt holes for the original front spring hanger but brings it inside of the rail and moves it up, keeps stress of the thin side of the rails and uses stock mounting location.



So for the rear, I am playing with the idea of getting rid of shackles and going with AFCO's leaf spring sliders, lower profile and look like a real nice product. I am not sure if popular for street cars or not, still looking into that, just ike the low profile to them that will minimize cutting into my trunk to have a shacke stick up into it. They are quite pricey at $82.99 each, but whatever.






Like I said just putting together ideas right now. Was also going to make plates and locate these inside the rear rails using sstock hanger hole on the bottom of the rail. Let me know your thoughts, headed in the right direction or just in a world of my own, I guess we will see.

 

CCP sells a relocation kit to move the leafs from outside the frame to under the frame rail. Also lowers the car and you can run a 10 inch tire. Link:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1955_1970_Fullsize_Cars/5557SRK.htm