Projects Speed Junky's '34 Ford pickup truck thread

Thanks Swade. Yeah I'm thinking the frame is plenty beefy.

 

Still need to grind and dress the welds but she's together. Need to make cutouts for the axle and drive shaft too. Hat channel and plexiglass up next.

 

Since the bed is done the floor is up next.
Started making and laying out some of the cardboard templates for the floor. Figured I would start with the driver and passenger areas first. Hoping that this approach will help me figure out the tunnel and trans hump easier. This is my first rodeo with a floor and it looks to be a challenge and a half.

 

That's a good looking ride keep up the good work

 

great looking little truck you're building!

 

Thanks guys!

 

Your getting there! HRP

 

Looking good Brian, the bed came out really nice. Because we're both running cages ,my floor is probably similar to yours. Let me know if you need any close up pics.

 

looking goood!!

 

Thanks Matt.
Your floor was one of the ones I was going to go back and reference. Much of the original sub floor is still in my cab and in terrific shape so that helps. I hope to make the trans tunnel removable. It makes sence to be able to get the trans out of the cab area if I have to remove it. It's a '34 truck with a cage so there is 10lbs of shit in a 5lbs bag. I'm not exactly the most narrow person either.
I think I'll need to use a plannishing hammer and a slip roll for all the stepped curves by the bell housing and trans and a brake for the 90* transition at the bottom. The trans is high in the cab and the Tremec has a real boxxie case.
I'm curious if you put a 90* brake on your floor where it connects to the tunnel or if you did the brake on the tunnel and welded it in. Whatever closeups you have I would like to see them.

 

Your on it now Brian, let us know if we can help.

 

I agree on the removable tunnel. I have no idea how I would get to my bellhousing bolts if wasn't. Mine trans still has to drop out from the bottom though. The TH400 has a wide pan and my floor sits above that.

My floor is pretty basic. For the transition from the floors to the tunnel I just used 3/4" angle iron. Which gave me a place to bolt the floors to and a spot for the Dzus fasteners for the tunnel. On the firewall I made a channel for the tunnel slide into. My tunnel is pretty straight forward so I just rolled mine around anything I could find. I did do a relief cut on the drivers side and pushed it in and rewelded it. Just to give me a little more foot room.

I'm really not a fan of using angle iron but I had it and it worked fine. If I did it again I would use 1" x 2" rectangular tubing and then brake a 90 in the floor by the trans. I could then weld the Dzus tabs to the 1" x 2".

No doubt on the 10 LBS of shit in a 5 LBS bag. Except I think you're 15 instead of 10, you gotta squeeze a 3rd pedal in there!

 

Thanks for the post Mat!

 

Look'n good

 

So I finished fine tuning the poster board floor templates finally. Took all the measurements and ordered up the two floor pieces of steel this afternoon. Should have the material Wednesday and then the real fun starts. I'm signed up for the power/planishing hammer class at Baleigh Industrial in January. Hoping that will help me learn some pointers on fabricating the removable trans tunnel by myself.

As I stated I finished the four sides of the bed. I am kicking around three different ideas for the bed floor. No matter what I will have to bolt the entire bed together to get it around the cage. It wont have a welded in floor.
Here are my floor options/ideas....
1. Connect the bed sides to the kick up rails with angle off the bed sides bolted to cleats on the frame. No bed floor, saving weight, and exposing the chassis eye candy HRCC did.
2. Mount the bed to the chassis with hat channel, speed holed, and dimple die'd with blue plexiglass in the hat channel.
3. Same as #2 but install blue plexiglass in the entire bed floor area. (have to credit HRCC for this idea).

The side glass and rear window will most likely be tinted light blue. That's where the blue bed plexiglass idea is coming from. I just need to decide bed floor route soon because it will determine if I need to install angle on the front bed panel.

 

I dig the new Bed! Keep pluggin...

 

Took a couple shots to see how the new bed sits. It needs to be lowered a couple more inches, but its getting there finally. I plan to make a lower splash pan with a blister of some sort in it for the area under the front of the bed sides. The new roll pan needs to get speed holed and flanged still. I think this is the first time this damn thing has looked like a truck so far.

 

i don't get it. you made the bed in steel so you would see how it looked when you finally got around to building it out of wood?

i'm just messing with you brian, i'm liking the proportions.

 

Ima liken it! Stu

 

I have redone so much of my work on this truck that I can't remember what the hell I did first or when. Learning curves can be a real bitch sometimes. haha
Thanks for the kind words man!

Thanks Bill!

 

How about an aluminum floor, bead rolled, and dzus fasteners.

 

Brian,...I'm likin that just the way it sits now.

 

Looks great Brian and really really dig this version of the bed!!!! Can't wait to see that floor now!!!!!!

 

I have the cold rolled for the driver side, passenger side, and driveshaft tunnel already. I might do the trans tunnel in aluminum though since it will be removable.

Thanks Sam. Needs a little lower still but not much.

Thanks man!

I sent a text to my older brother with a picture of the bed and he seen the jack stands at the roll pan and asked if they were training wheels. He started shit talking already because he knows I'm gonna stomp on his '57 Chevy at the track with my truck.

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks for the kind words guys!

 

Started fabricating the floors. Using 18ga sheet metal that will be bead rolled and have multiple steps in them. The original cab floor structure is still in the cab and in very good condition. These new pieces are basically just skins.
I'm in the measure, cut, bead roll, trim, cuss, cuss some more, and repeat stage.
Seems to be the most challenging piece of this project so far but fun non the less. I'll keep updating as I progress.

 

Nice Brian, you've done well working around the difficult areas we looked at. Toe board looks good too. From this photo, perhaps a narrower drive shaft loop could give you some more width to work with. Tried to fit seats yet? Nice work, keep it up!

 

The seat just clears the drive shaft loop. The black sharpie lines that run along the driveshaft indicate where the Sheet metal will have a 90* brake upward. I'll weld the driveshaft tunnel Sheet metal to that 90* lip. The driveshaft tunnel Sheet metal will land under the loop which will give me a couple more inches of room on each side. I'll take every inch I can find.
I still need to put a 90* brake on the pans from the firewall back once I get her fitted right. Thanks for the compliments too.