chop saw blade

I have this same exact problem.

The people coming up with idiot answers amazes me! WOW!

I have also found that after that were down about an inch they don't cut as well. I figured it was because the abrasive starts to wear off the sides. Kind of like 4" grinding wheels. At first they work good, but as you get into the fibers of the wheel, things are slower and not as abrasive. On a 14" shop saw, thin blades deflect and don't cut as straight.

When this happens, you will be cutting as normal, then it's just like trying to drill a hole with a dull bit. You cut push down as hard as you want and the saw will take forever to cut. It's terrible.

I'm saving my money for a cold saw.

 

I have ben using this saw for over 20 years. I am just with in the last year starting to see this problem. I think the motor is fine I am going to try a diffrent blade type thanks for the advice.

 

I have a small portable abrasive saw and a large, powerful 20" unit. Both can make angled cuts. They are seldom used for anything other than parts so hard they can't be sawed, and for thinwall tubing.

 

I,m using a diamond blade in my 14" Porter- Cable chop saw. A contractor here in town gave me the blade, he said it was 50 % left. It cuts just fine.

Lee

 

One thing to keep in mind that’s not been mentioned.

Angle of attack has a lot to do with this issue.
The faster you break threw the better …. as in say your cutting some ½ x 3 flat….stand it on edge and you will blaze right threw. Lay it down flat and the blade will lode up and protest.

 

Very true.


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

I dont see it .... lets not turn this into a "drama thread".

 

I cut thru a chunk of rail road rail last night. Used up less blade than I would have thought. It got hot and stopped cutting several times( the material, not the saw it's self). I think it has more to do with material and speed/pressure. I ended up cutting thru the layer that I got too hot with a reciprocating saw, then was able to get the cut off to work again. Took a while! But I have a nice 30" anvil for the fabrication table!

 

This is what I would like to do I was wondering if you could just get a 10 in metal cutting blade and put it on my porter cable chop saw

Jake

 

What tooth count blade do you use?

 

Cutting a railroad rail the easy way. Take's two people.

Lock it down tight on one end, then use a 10 pound spike maul and a cold cut to notch the foot and web on both sides deep.

Wedge the end over best you can to put it under a lot of sideways pressure and pour ice water on it for like three minutes or so. Then take the cold cut and whack it with the maul with it at the corner of the foot under pressure and it should break like a piece of glass!

I've cut several rails this way back when I was a "Gandy-Dancer"..

pdq67