Upholstery, a beginners journy

The wifey and I did this to our '28 chevy.
Material from Joanne and a regular sewing machine.
Really proud of our 1st attempt.
LOTS of patience!

 

This is my '57 Ford, not a HAMB friendly car, but it is my first interior attempt. I cannot sew, so I had to use salvage yard seats (redyed) and a presewn headliner. The dash, console, and side panels do not have any sewn seams. I've got a few areas I've added to my "to be tweeked at a later date" list, but all in all, I'm happy with the results so far. I'm still working on a few pieces..package shelf area, kickpanels,etc.
Rich

 

If you hit the sides of the seat with a downward motion it will tighten up your corners so they aren't so wrinkled

 

You guys are getting it.There is a long process to perfection.Sewing is not hard to learn,I learned when I was about 6.Plain seats also are harder to hide stuff.Apache is right,it works to slap; pull and slap,sometimes it hurts your hands.

 

thats where it helps having big hands.

 

That's what she said!





Ba-da-bing!

 

Forgot to mention what an awesome thread this is...only wish I had it before I started. I'm in total agreement with the spray can stuff not holding up in heat. I had to redo every piece I had done after taking it out of the car and put on shelves while I did the final body work and paint. I now use the weldwood, although I have to thin it a tad with acetone to get a reasonable spray pattern. One thing I used on the headliner where tack strips couldn't be used...a high temp hot glue gun. worked well, is still holding, and the scars from the dripping glue have now healed. I figured the high temp stuff would be less likely to come undone on hot days than the low temp stuff, but you really have to be careful..it'll take your skin off before you can brush it off.
I do have a question...is there any way to make windlace without having a mass of wrinkles in tight corners? I'm asking about vinyl over rubber core.
Thanks Rich

 

The windlace can be made a little more flexy in the corners by clipping the part that tucks in.And you can make it by glueing in to the vynil as you make it.Be sure to stretch it a little as you install it.

 

Happy wife happy life!!!!

 

Awesome Thead! This has given me the confidence to start the interior on my 1946 Ford Business Coupe. I will be sure to take lots of pics!

 

OK, how about if you are concerned with humidity and the paneling or luan you are using, maybe coat both sides of it with Thompson's Water Seal? Just saying.

 

I used 1/8 oak panneling (something I already had), and varnished the outside prior to upholstering. After attaching the fabric, I additionally glued a sheet of poly on it. I prefered that to the plastic being on the door itself, as oem.
It's not only humidity, many cars (my '57 Ford)are designed to run water thru the doors and sides to the rockers, rather than trying to keep water out entirely. Those whiskers just aren't watertight as a rubber seal would be.

 

If you thompsons the board ,you won't get glue to stick.[I don't think]I would just use the plastic on the door as orig, cars did.That has always worked for me.I have done cars from many areas of the west,and never had to replace a panel in nearly 50 years.That being said,I did a headliner in a 34 a few weeks ago,I made a bending buck for the rear corners .When i steamed up the luan and tried to get it wrapped around it cracked.The paneling is not as good as it once was.

 

cool thread, subscribed.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!
I just got a message from WLS....the headliner shipped.

While I wait for that, I'm going to play a little bit with the back seat. I've changed the floor behind the seat for my 4 link.


Both the back and seat bottom have burlap surrounding individual coil springs. I haven't seen anything like this in my web travels. Should I disassemble them and replace the burlap? It's all coming out cause it smells

I'd like to remove a bit of height in the back seat. My head hits the roof
Being that the bottom is coil springs, what would the best way to do that?

Thanks again for the help!
Thom

 

You can remove the gunny bag stuff.and unless you really are bored with a lot of time,leave it off,[the spring bags].It is mostly a noise suppresor.The height can be changed by pulling the springs tighter [shorter]use jute cord and tie each spring to the desired hieght.Keep in the rato of slope front to back,and even across.You'll get it done,when there is a ? just ask us. Jack

 

For weather proofing panels and plywood, check out a can of DupliColor spay on bed liner.It will leave a smooth surface. Since is supposedly paint able glue should stick. Last set of seats I did was for a friends boat. New plywood panels were cut the coated with the spray bed liner. I also used this spray to coat the bottom of my new mailbox post before setting it in concrete.
Good Thread !!! When I bought my industrial sewing machine I spent hours sewing anything I could find. Like anything Practice !!! Jeff

 

pukeeeee

 

Thanks for the clear response Jack. I wonder if I can remove the burlap with FIRE LOL

Didn't your momma ever tell you if you've got nothing nice to say, don't say anything.

 

Its amazing how the seat frames evolved from coiled (furniture springs) to no sag springs in two years or less. maybe different seat frame manufacturers were involved.
The 52 seat frame I am working on is made with no sag springs.

 

It had to be for economy, mine weighs a metric ass load, and it had to be difficult to get all that burlap sewn around the springs.

Got the frame cleaned up. At least I didn't find any dead critters.
I picked up some jute twine, It looks like I need to stabilize some of the springs now that the burlap is gone.

 

Thommy,use the same twine to tie the spring together side to side,front too back.Tie a square knot at each spring,keep them even.tie off at the edge wire.Yeah jim sometimes they would change in the same year.Last week i tore open a 55 chevy pu seat for a customer,they have a solid steel bottom,I guarantee I took out 10 # of mouse nest and it still smells to bad to bring in the shop.I'll sand blast it next week,then bury it in paint!

 

56, yea man, those truck seats are perfect mouse condos. I did one just like the one you describe. Nasty little buggers packed the springs full of crap. I found that household ammonia works best for killing the odor.

 

Got the back seat tidied up, thanks

WHOOT
UPS dropped off the headliner today.
I'll start playing this weekend.

 

Hi guys,hope your holidays were good.Thommy,glad your ready to get at it.I have probably put in a1000 headliners.Many I bought premade because it was cheaper and faster than my shop time.Whenyou have your bows fitted to the car,make sure they are marked,I use a file mark,! slash 2 etc.Also make sure to mark them on the same side so that if there is a difference side to side.If you havent cut them yet,make sure to measure from center,remove the same amount each side.I'll bet we can get you thru it.

 

your right you don't see a lot about this subject and I'm a ways off from this step but I wouldn't mind seeing how its done and perhaps giving it a try !

 

I insulate the roof with 1/4" landau top foam, mark the center of the roof with a sharpie, and mark the center of each listing pouch. As each listing rod is attached to the car center the marks and smooth to each end. Works well.

 

Subscribed!!! And I too am in the process on my 57 ford

 

I really appreciate your help guys! :BEER:
and thanks for putting up with me.
I'll try to document what I'm doing the best I can as I go along.

I've started with the windlace, starting at the front, Mine has a little channel to tuck it into. it's a bit loose, so I'll pinch it down a bit.
For the transition from the channel to the tack strips, I used the screw for the channel to help hold it there.
Working my way along the top of the door, It appears that the foam core has a set from being wound up.

Will that set work itself out eventually? It's kinda drunk now

 

Stop.youre gonna have to go back and slit that windlace around the curve.Clip it about 1/2 " apart,only as deep as the threads,maybe not quite that deep.I cant tell from the pics,is that stapled in?Any way after you clip it pull it up into the curve tightly and fasten .Pulli up like haging clothes on a line.Sometimes if you staple a couple temp.spots a foot or so head alittle stretched you can pull the extraup.Really,don't continue as you are,it will not come out,plus it would kinda upset me,i'm pretty picky and hard on my students