rack and pinion steering arm angle question

And just look at the leverage involved with the 'tie-rod' end being so far below the steering arm hole!

 

Great ELpolacko! That link says it all. In my view perhaps picture angle lies a little. Sorry, not ment to offend you. Did similar changes to my own 50 Chevy steering setup a few years ago, and also finded the best information about it by racing enthusiasts. A lot of guys tried giving advices, but found it fast it did make a crappy ride. Learned by testing, and following right advices as mentioned, and the ride changed drastically, absolute no bump-steer,

 

Actually quite common on race and performance street cars. Again, not the "best" solution; but usually the least involved when trying to make a bad situation a little better.

 

Without cutting it all out and starting over, replace the outer tie rod with a heim joint so it can be spaced down. It will be limited by rim clearance, but you should be able to reduce some of the bump steer.

 

ive never seen tie rods on a rack that go in from the top.its hard to see but i would think if he just put them in from the bottom he would be ok.

 

The picture should have not been displayed that way.
The lower a arm should be level with ground.
The ride height correct, aarm level, 0 degs caster,wheel straight up.
If you put both your arms out even with shoulders moved up and down 2"
very little movement.Now if all movement up say 4" the wheel would go in or out depending if a arm were up or down.BUMP STEER
Easy eye ball alinement
Get the ball joints straight up and down,this would bring tie rod end down.
I use a carpenders level to get wheel straight up and down.
Then set your toe in about 1/8"
The top looks like it was made to set on top of frame and with it alined you will be good

 

ok just wanted to show what i did to fix this problem. i cut the rack mounts off , cut them at an angle so it would raise the rack and rotate it a little for a better angle at the steering shaft joint.

this brought the steering arms up parallel to the control arms.

i put a spot of tape where the inner pivot is on the rack, and as you can see in the pic its in line with the control arm pivots.

this made a huge difference in the toe in when laid out and before at ride height i could bounce the front and you could see the wheels going in and out.

 

Nice! Seems way better now.

 

The majority of input is correct. Tie rod should be on the same plane as the lower control arm.
But he mentioned the toe change when he drops the car. You have a long and short control arm setup. These control arms DO NOT have the same arc travel and thus when you get out of your selected ride height you will have major toe and Camber change. You can get away with different rack setups as far as length but the toe change and bump steer will really have to be plotted out to allow drive-ability. This is one reason I lengthened the upper arms on the Camero clip on my car. This made a big change in camber readings during normal travel and when dropped.

 

It looks good but have one question,did you adjust the caster.
Looking from side both ball joints straight up and down is 0 degs caster,or looking down one on top of other.
Manaual is about 1 degs pos thats back,power maybe another 1 degs to two.
The pic on left is about o degs,right is tipped back about 3/4"
now the left from table is 1 1/2and right 2 1/4.
See what happens when you have to much caster.

 

I'm no expert on this topic but just looking at the results of what you did they should be hiring you to do their set ups. Looks so much better. Maybe a half a bubble of on the level though.lol.just kidding.yruhot.........doug