Briefly I am practicing pinstriping. I've red tons etc. I got some practice sheets printed of from Rocky Burris. I am having a lot of trouble with the S curves. Mainly it is when I go from the top of the S and start toward the lower part of the S. At the center of the S the line weight get thick. This is a "lazy S". At what point should I start turning the brush after starting at the top? I am using either Excaliber or Mack series 10. My other question has to do with paint thickness. I know there are an ass load of threads here about this but in particular there is a lot of advice that states the paint should be the consistency of 30 weight oil. I actually got some 30 weight and dipped a brush in it and the oil is WAY thinner than any of the OS paint I have??? Thanks for any help. Howard
First off, every pinhead has his or her "works for me" technique. You just have to "figger" some things out. As far as when to turn, keep an eye out for the belly hairs poking out and practice turning before they show. As for the oil comparison, the oil has to be straight weight, not 10w stuff. As everyone says...PRACTICE! Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Are you thinning the paint, I usually dip my brush in in clean mineral spirits then pallet it on my board to thin the paint, I don't know if other people do it that way but it works for me.
Most people reduce their paint on the palet, working out of 2 cups. One for paint, the other for reducer. The paint should have a small amount of drag as you pull a line. After a while, you just go by feel, it becomes automatic.
If you are serious about striping, get a dagger for long lines and a Kafka scroller for your S's and Curly Q's. A lot easier than trying to twist a dagger around corners. Fifty years ago I was taught to thin your paint at the start of each job. Pour some out and thin to proper consistency and you seldom need to add thinner when you pallette. Every time you open a can, the paint starts getting thicker until you have a very heavy consistency that is not usable without thinning every stroke. That is why it seems so thick compared to oil. Paletteing is to get a clean edge on your brush not to mix paint. The post by Unkl Ian is correct, the proper consistency will have a slight drag as you pull, but will lay down clean edges. Takes a while to learn, but you will learn to tell by the feel.
One more thought, do not thin in the can, if you over thin it, you have wasted a can of paint. Pour some out in a small container and thin it there.
Thanks for the tips on the scroller! I've been playing around with stripes over the last year or so. I bought a scroller last January but haven't used it because I wasn't sure how...lol!
Just work it up on the tip and pull it around. Type in Kafka on you tube and he has some videos on the scroller.
Thanks all. Here are some answers. I hope I can remember what questions that were in the replies. Tapatalk doesn't have a multi-quote ability as best as I can tell. I did use 30W non detergent oil in my "test"still seemed way skinnier than my OS I use 2 cups. I drilled the caps on my paint and put thread inserts in the caps so I just remove a 10-32 machine screw and let what I want to use drip into the cup. I shake it first. I did this because I only have 6 cans of paint and it seemed like I was wasting a lot by pouring or using a spoon. I have OS high temp reducer in the second cup. I am using these little plastic deli cups. I think they are 2oz. They do fine and were free. I first load my brush with paint only and when I go for more I dip into reducer first then paint then pallet. I have the Kafka brushes but I really want to try and become somewhat proficient with one brush before bouncing around and experimenting with too many brushes. I use mainly the Series 10 in 00 or 000. I have looked at " how to hold a brush" many times. I can actually do a circle better than these damn S curves I am practicing. It is the top of the S and the transition that is frustrating me. At the top or beginning if you will, I don't know if or how much I should turn the brush and as I get to the middle and turn back to make the bottom of the S I make a screwed up line section. I hold the brush near 90*. How much of the belly gets used for curves. I've read about using a small part of the tip only but this confuses me??? Almost forgot. We are talking sword striper here-not dagger. Thanks Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks Unkl Ian-what about when I get toward the center of this S? The line is more of an S that is pulled so only the top & bottom curves remain connected by a nearly straight section. When I come from the top and start to straighten out the brush the line either thickens or fattens. Is it just a matter of adjusting the pressure? tbanks Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
It's a matter of constantly compensating. I would suggest starting with a larger S. Some things are easier to do, than to explain.
If you think your paint is too thin, make a # and watch the inside corners. It the consistency is ok, the corners will stay sharp. Too thin, and they will round off and form an inside radius.
Now that is some great info! The # tip is exactly the type of tangible tidbit my limited brain can deal with and I will try this today. In your ,"How to hold a brush" photo series you state you trimmed a mack to make it easier to turn. Is removing a portion of the belly designed to get rid of the part of the brush that hinders making easy curves/turns? If so then it would seem that lifting and using a steep (90*?) Angle would provide the beginner similar results. Of course the extra belly hair in an untrimmed brush would make it stiffer or at least that would be my thought. Thanks loads. Howard Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
I recommend NOT trimming the belly of your brushes. Just the slightest fraction off the tip is good. Proper technique makes trimming the belly obsolete.
Simply put, I make S turns starting with movement at my shoulder and elbow then more movement if need be at my wrist and fingers. Then the brush takes over with pressure and speed of the stroke. Sounds strange but it works for me.
My last try. A dagger or sword is not made to do tight curves. Yes, you can twist it and make it work, but they are designed to pull long lines and gentle curves. The belly pops out because that is they way they were designed for holding paint for long lines.Brushes used by sign men for tight curves are called outliners and are designed to outline lettering with tight curves. The Kafka brushes and curlyQ and Swirly Q's are basically outliners with stripers handles. They will pull around without twisting. You say you have the right brush, but you want to master the wrong brush first. Makes no sense to me, but the Kafka will do every thing that you say you want to do.
This is all good learning. I've been striping about 4 years at a hobby level and in the same situation. I've always been told to use just one brush at first and was pointed in the direction of the same, Mack Series 10 in a 00 and 000. I practice as much as possible but still find tight bends hard to do on smaller designs. I know it's all practice and i'll keep at it though as a Xmas present to myself i have ordered a few new brushes to have a play with. Funnily enough the exact brushes mentioned by hotrod1940 with the addition of a Mack Vortex and some lettering brushes. I've far from mastered my original brush but keen to see how others work. Especially if it helps on them tight curves! Happy New Year
OK-I didn't intend to make your input seem unappreciated. I am just trying to find my way around this skill and, I am sure you agree, the Mack series 10 and the Excaliber sword stripers are by far the most common brushes being used for striping in straight lines and in curves/circles. This isn't to say your recommendation to use the Kafka for circles has fell on deaf ears. I certainly will try to get comfortable with the Kafkas. I am excited to have found out yesterday that a local striper is willing to allow me to watch and has offered to give me some tips. I will meet with him in the next week or so. Thanks Howard
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