So, after wasting some dough on converting the 10 bolt that came in my F1 to disk brakes, it seems that it is on its way out. The thing is clicking when you spin the wheels in reverse by hand, so the spider gear must be bad. It's also been making a intermittent harmonic sound around right hand turns, and now after rolling around for a few miles. The brakes get hot and pedal gets firm (they are power brakes), and this only started after putting on disks. I'm now exploring my options, but wanted to see what you all suggest. Do I: Rebuild the 10 bolt? I believe it's 7.5 inch version with 2.73 gearing(see pic-sorry it's upside down for some reason). I just put in a healthy rebuilt 327, and I don't know how much this thing can take from this warmed over motor, much less my planned cam upgrade. This seems like the most cost effective option, unless the motor eats it up. I might put in lower gears too, maybe 3.23s or 3.42s. Put in an Explorer 8.8? Limited slip and disk brakes already with a lower gear ratio. Not sure the math on this adds up yet when compared to just rebuilding the 10 bolt. I'd get a junkyard one, and that comes with more questions. Look for a good 9 inch? What would fit under the F1 best? I don't want to get ridiculous with the build up of a race-ready set up...it's just a shop truck kinda thing. Disk brakes are preferred with my current set up. Any other ideas? Thanks!
I opt'd for an 8.8 ford. check axle widths and see if its workable. Probably one of the best junkyard deals out there.
By the way. 8.8 out of an explorer= Disk brakes (look for um) Trac-lock (posi- mustang OE stuff) 31 spline axles ford bolt pattern depending which one you find theres a choice of gear ratios too, Mines 3.73's... Perfect got mine for like 220$ they come behind every mustang, can take a beating. Hell, even shortening the tubes wouldn't be a deal breaker if you can find a good rear end guy.
8.8" or 8 3/4 mopar. If your idea of a "healthy rebuilt 327" is anything like mine, the 7.5" 10 bolt doesnt have a prayer.
Check the Pick-N-Pull website. There're 30 Exploders in the Oakland and Richmond yards, alone! $160 for entire rearends complete with disc assemblies.
On the 8.8 Explorer rearends you can shorten the leftside axle tube 3 inches and use another rightside axle out of an Explorer 8.8, and you end up with a 56 & 1/2 inch wide rearend with disc brakes that can take some serious abuse, they are about 59 & 1/2 inches wide, wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, stock. Best deal going out of the U-Pull-It yards, under $200 beans down here in Fla. The 8.8 factory identification tag should be on one of the bolts holding the rearend cover on, bottom left of the tag will say your gear ratio, if it's a locker it will have L stamp in the gear ratio on the tag, will look like this 3:L73, which is the most common gear ratio with a locker in them that I have looked at.
Thanks guys! This really helps me think it through. falcongeorge: I think that's what's accelerating its demise! Talking 300+ hp and gobs of torque. I've smoked the hide through 1st and 2nd with those 2.73s no problem (no posi).
Wow, that's impressive. I'd really hate to go through all the trouble just to munch the fucker the first time I really get on it!
Just for the helluva of it I ran an old 83 gutlass 2.29 10 bolt 7.5" in my 3300 LB sedan delivery with a 12 inch clutch, 4 speed and a healthy 406 SBC.. Hey, the rearend was free! I thought I'd run it till it broke but it never broke! Guy I sold the car to lunched the tranny but the old 10 bolt lived on.
I have heard the similar stories to Rocky's and Dynaflashes from other reliable sources, and I dont doubt they are true. I have also heard stories (and seen the fragments) from guys with 12 second automatic S-10s and G bodies who have torn up these rears in a matter of weeks. The way I figure it, the question is rebuilding a 7.5" that is already wounded, or replacing it with an 8.8". I say go to the 8.8" and save yourself a world of grief. Just take a look inside the 7.5" the internals are REAL feeble looking, and the limited slips in most of them are crap. It MIGHT last a while, but is "MIGHT last a while" good enough?
Yeah, I wouldn't run another one with a torquey engine...I think I just got lucky although clutch side-steps were strictly avoided. Still, it felt like the left front came off the ground on 2nd gear shift. Go 8.8 ford.
I've done two 8.8". Both are 373 traction locs. One I narrowed for an OT car and have one for a 46 corn binder. Parts are very cheap from rock auto. I don't know anything about 10 bolts but I had to rebuild the entire parking brake parts, calipers, rotors, weld in spring perches, make shock plates, route brake lines, get parking brake cables routed, get ubolts, ujoint bits to connect pinion flange to drive shaft, ... I'd rebuild the 10 bolt.
That's what my buddies and I discussed. I'm sure I'd spend a lot of time cutting off stuff and with my luck, end up having to rebuild everything.
It's worth looking into. Rearends are probally one of the safest bets from junkyards. If you shop smart (I.E Look at it before buying) then you wont need to replace everything. If your lucky like me... all i had to do was cut perches off my original axle, and weld um on the 8.8, change diff fluid, hook brake lines up. and light um up. I of course had a driveline made, as mine was trashed/ bent. Axle shops have all sorts of adapter yokes to make it work. Ohh and i was easly able to reuse the 8.8's sway bar (Bonus) mines behind a 461BBC, 12in wide slicks. I dont think twice about letting the smoke fly. Do your homework and take a deep breath. You'll be fine with whatever you get.
I really dont know how its still alive. Iv beat the EVER LOVING PISS out of this little peg leg. I have a 9 inch waiting, but this thing is going strong... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3VS8TeG6ENI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kubrpg4gHps" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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