home made tools and equipment...

Wow, That is some nice work !!!

 

While I like the idea behind the bigger wheels on your hoist what kills it for me is the extra height you now have at the front where you will want to roll it underneath a vehicle.


I have found mine to be too tall already in the stock form.

The idea I have to modify mine is to move all the wheels up in the frame and then have the front wheels set into the front of the tube essentially lowering the whole thing closer to the floor.

In the construction of my 26 RPU the only way I can get the hoist under the car is to have it sitting up on the 4 ramps.

Sitting on the tires there is no way it will go under.

My son has a hoist I used to own that is a much better design. If I can I'll get a picture or two of it soon.

 

This lift is for general purpose use around the shop, not for cars slammed to the weeds. This setup only adds 5/8" to the overall height of the top of the legs and rolls fine under a normal height car. My example here is just for ease of installation, not for the time to re-engineer the mounting up inside the legs.

 

I never understood why they put cheap ass wheels on this stuff,
Engine hoists, engine stands, floor jacks, vehicle wheel dollies, creepers and the like. The very last thing we need is to be fighting the wheels when using these things.

 

Actually I find mine rolls quite well on the wheels it came with even with a heavy engine and trans hanging on it.

The main problem for me is the height of it. I will post pictures in a day or two of a much better design.

 

great idea for the hoist,biggest thing for my hoist is the act to fold it up,its akward for one person to pull the pins and get it folded up.i made a lever to simplify the process.

 

The only thing I would change is bring that baby over to my place!!!
That is a one great Idea reciever hitch for the wheels. Wow I am going to harbor freight today! Hope you dont mind stealing your cool Idea.Sat I was mocking up a motor and cab placement on my f1 my hog mister lift,I was using the cheater bar to move the front over to make it work..Thank you sir for the great Idea.. Also I like the bed frame cart. You are making it happen. George

 

I put some roller blade wheels and bearings on my creeper and they are much better now than before.

The wheels on the cheap ass orange engine stand don't even have bearings, cast wheel on a greased pin. The cheap ass orange hoist is the same way. The casters have something similar to flat spot BBs and hang up all the time. It really is a PITA and 2 person job. I had a nicer red hoist that was really nice but I sold it instead of moved it. I have a very old jack that will give up its wheels unless I can find parts.

I have some old decrepit carts with beautiful old school art deco wheels that will move over.

As far as height, I've never had trouble with that because the vehicles are almost always up on short stands. Personally I find it easier that way. I did catch a little bit of trouble dropping a north star cradle out of the bottom but a few blocks on the engine cradle dolly fixed that.

 

love the bigger/ better wheels----i find on creepers if you have a stubborn bolt etc and the wheels roll to easy u end up just rolling around the floor---i will be changing my cherry picker to bigger wheels

 

Talk about bearings. When I made my car rotisory I used front wheel drive hubs and the rotor for the head.

 

Nice.

Dare we ask what vehicle that is (even if it is OT ).

 

My latest home made tool is a louver press. 1 of many tools I have made myself. I am running out of room to store them all!!!

Mtw fdu.

 

Sure like your louver Press! Does it cut the louver or do you have to make a slice,and press threw?Would like to see a close up it you don't mind,not to copy but to get my little brain around the upper structure, I have a Idea with a hydralic unit. Thanks George

 

Damn you wernt supost to see that. Its a MGB I am restoring for a customer. I swear I am only doing this because he we are going to do a choped merk when we are done with this one.

 

No worries barrnone50. I have included all the pics of the build. I have to say this is not my idea either. I got it off the net as well. And to answer your question, I use a hand-lever to punch and press all in 1 go. No need to pre-slice the panel. The top and bottom cutting blade is made out of tool steel. I have only been able to press up to 1mm thick but if my press is going to be used quite often, I will change it to a hydraulic set up or an air ram to press thicker material. Hope this helps in any way. I couldn't load all the pics in this thread so checkout the next thread from me.

Mtw fdu.

 

Continuing on from my last post.

If I change my setup to an air ram I will use a foot pedal as well. Much easier and definitely faster than using hydraulics.

You can see in 1 of the pics that I can easily store it out of the way because it is on a couple of bushes top and bottom.

If you need any more help or questions I am happy to help in any way.

Mtw fdu.

 

really like the louvre press,im planning a rig for my small hyd.press.
the wall mount is awesome,a real space saver.
shop space is a premium for me too.
the building in the avatar is only 40x80,but my wife only lets me use it in the summer,she fills it with boats in the winter.storage business is ok for a little money,helps with property tax.

 

A different engine hoist design, my son owns this one.

The legs don't fold up but you can unbolt the jack tower part of it with 4 bolts to stow it away.

The main advantage of this one is the low height from the floor so it is stable as well as easier to get under low vehicles.

 

But that setup only allows for swivel wheels in the rear. if you need to swing the hoist sideways from the front your screwed. That's why I chose my design.

 

I gave that hoist to my son after having used it myself for over 20 years and on many different projects and even for different purposes.

I intended to build one for myself but ended up buying the folding one instead. I may still build one in the future.

I can tell you the non swiveling fixed front wheels are not an issue most of the time.

Even with an engine and trans hanging off of it you can slide the fixed wheels sideways on a concrete floor easily by shoving with your foot on the front leg.

Believe me it doesn't take that much effort, so you are definitely not screwed.

If your floor is extremely rough concrete, maybe so, but otherwise it's a piece of cake, I did it many times over the years.

 

yeah, but by using Fibertech design with the small swivel caster, you get the best of both world.

 

I'll throw in my $.02. I don't like swivel wheels at the front of an engine hoist. To me, they add instability of the poosibility of losing the load. I would rather have no wheels on the front, or fixed straight-ahead fixed steel wheels snugged up tight within the front legs.

 

No actually you don't. The hoist is too tall for my needs to begin with and the wheels he used add to the height. Ok for him but not ideal.

That hoist my son has is very stable, no way you will tip that one over.

 

The type of instability I have seen is when you have a load suspended up high, say when a motor and tranny are way up high to clear the front sheet metal. If someone pushes the front 'sideways', it is possible for a wheel to catch something, hang up and then roll. With the center of gravity way up high, this introduces a sway and the whole thing can topple over. With the front flat on the floor or with straight-ahead wheels, if you horse the front sideways (even if with a pinch bar) you just get sideways motion, not the hang-up-and-then-release that a front caster can provide.

 

Agreed, if you look at the hoist I posted that my son owns you will see fixed straight ahead wheels mounted up high in the tube so the tube sits low.

 

Here's my home made tool, a smoke extractor.

I have about $300 into it so far.

• $100 rolling tool chest on sale at Menard's
• $50 Harbor Freight blower on sale
• $20 4" PVC pipe
• $30 in filters, one $2 pre-filter to catch larger particles, $25 filter to collect extra fine particles, $2 filter to hold a carbon filter to filter out odors
• $25 piece of expandable metal
• $30 premade HVAC duct parts from the hardware store
• Flexible 4"tubing scrap I got from a customer, 4" pipe cut off from another customer and miscelaneous steel in the shop.

I have to finish it this week but needed it over the weekend because I had a Christmas present to make. I did a lot of cutting with the plasma cutter and mig welding. Before the shop would stink for days because of the fumes. I came in the next day and couldn't smell any odors so I figured it did the job. This week I'll cut a door for the side and add on a "ON/OFF" and "HIGH/LOW" speed switch and paint the fabbed parts.
I also have a flexible nozzle set up for the end of the tube. I have it made but need another piece of flexible hose.

 

That I agree, you have to be extremly careful when you move it to limit the side to side rocking so it wont tip over, in terms of losing the load it really depends on how you hooked everything.

I'm talking small caster with Z'ing of the frame, you could lay it at 1/8" off the ground if you wanted.

Bob that smoke extractor is really neat, I need something like that too.

 

Man I'm gonna have to build one of those...I can't do anything in my garage without it stinkin up the house.


Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Find a place on the bottom to pour a slab of concrete.
Maybe turn cabinet upside down. Drill holes insert 1/4 inch bolts nutted in place. Form around. Pour concrete. Could use thin plywood to form up.
This will lower CG
Mike

 

Can you supply us with some measurements of the cabinet and filters?Also I'd like more info on the pre filter and carbon filter. Would a shop vac filter work for a pre filter? Thanks