4 and counting... UPDATE!! UPDATE II

So far, since July, I've replaced 4 starters. They usually last a month. 350 SBC, 350 turbo trans. The only reason I haven't gone broke, is the 1 year warranty, but now the parts guys are REALLY getting tired of seeing me pop in for a replacement.

I've tried EVERY combination of shims. Even no shims. So far, 2 on the inboard side seems to last a little longer, but not much. When they go out, I usually get a growling noise, like it's chewing on the flywheel, then I get that high pitched whir, like it's just spinning. Flywheel looks great and it's new. The teeth on this last starter had a little wear, but not much.

The only thing all the starters have in common is that they are rebuilts. Could it be possible to get 4 bad rebuilts? Right now, it's doing fine after swapping out, but I'm thinking I need a BRAND NEW one. Maybe this will solve the mystery.

Any ideas what I could try before going to a new one? Connections are good. Wiring is good. Ground is good. Patience is running thin.

 

Rebuilt or remanufactured?

 

Are you using the correct " starter " bolts with the knurled shanks?

 

Rebuilt.

 

No, just regular bolts. What's the difference?

 

Very important to get the knurled bolts. I hope this solves your problem, I would definately start there .

 

I've had my share of bad "New Parts". Most of the of the parts you buy today are not made in the US and are made as cheaply as possible.How long did your original starter last?

 

The knurling help stabilize the nose and not allow it to walk or move around under the load of cranking. If you are using hardware stor bolts, they could even be a few thousanth's too long and that alone will allow the nose to shift. You will think they are tight, but actually they are not, TR

 

Rebuilt starters are made from core parts that are tested to be within spec

Upgrade to a reman or a new one, along with the knurled bolts and you should be good to go.

 

You have to get the right bolts and alot of guys don't use the little brace that goes to the block and ruin alot of starters too.

 

My old starter lasted so long, I don't remember when i got it.

What's this about knurled bolts? Could it be that simple and why?

 

I guess I'll try the knurled bolts. My starter never had that bracket you mentioned. I've seen it on some cars, but mine never had it.

 

Do you still have the original starter? If so, have that one rebuilt at a good, known rebuilder. Stop getting those oreilly, auto zone, advanced cheapies.

 

Fred, see the knurling, this locks tightly into the nose right where it mates with the block mounting surface.

 

Make sure when you install it to set the clearance properly. should be able to just slide a 1/8 allen key, or a 10 penny nail between the shaft on the starter and the teeth on the flywheel. of course you will have to take off the bottom cover for the converter to check that.

 

I agree 100% with the bracket or support as well, but the bolts are first thing I would change Fred.

 

I believe the knurled shaft is a certain dia. that fits the starter case. Helps stop starter walking or misalignment.

 

My bet is on crap parts. I used to have a company on my route that rebuilt starters and alternators. They had tables 50 ft long lined with 55 gal drums in front. People stood there all day busting down parts and throwing them in buckets. Pretty much the same in reverse for assembly. No skilled labor. Most didn't even speak english. They deal in volume, they don't care how long it takes you to remove/replace it.

 

Heres a pic of the bracket, TR

 

I'd go to a junk yard and pull some correct bolts and buy the starter too. It is possable to buy 4 bad starters in a row but not very likley. Look for a starter that has a few miles on it in the junk yard and test it before you leave it'll probably out last the car. Hot ods run best on junk yard parts, good luck.

 

That bracket gets tossed the first time someone changes the starter, Fred.

 

and you might try a starter from NAPA might cost a little more but worth every penny good luck

 

Have you tried using a high torque mini starter?,,I went through 4 rebuilt starters on my 327/350 in my 32 pickup,,,mini starter solved my problem. HRP

 

Exactly, almost every single time.

 

You're gonna laugh, but get your starter from Napa, and use the knurled bolts as mentioned. Seriously.

 

Check you distributor mechanical advance too. If it's sticky and not returning correctly you are always trying to crank the engine under advance ignition and the starter is working twice as hard. On the race cars we can retard the timing with the MSD box for starting, otherwise we would smoke a starter every other race.

 

I'm with TR on this one. Knurled bolts and the brace are a MUST. THEN shim as necessary. If the thing is wobbling all over hell under load, the shims wont matter a hill of beans.

 

Well, I Googled about the bolts and it seems there is a difference between the factory ones and the hardware variety. Seems the knurled ones keep it in alignment, so it won't walk or wabble.

I had my bolts tight, but had no idea the bolt style made a difference. Thanks guys! Another satisfied customer. I'll grab a set tomorrow.

I know the bracket you guys mentioned, but that got tossed WAY before this started happening. I may dig one up, just for insurance.

 

Here's what a Google search found:

"Only "starter bolts" bolts, usually knulled, with an oversize shank specifically made as starter bolts will keeep the starter in alignment. Lengths vary !!! "

I have always wondered why the bolt holes in the starter were a little larger than my bolt shafts, but it didn't seem like much. Well, now I know. Thanks again.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

Okay, this morning I went to my parts store for the correct starter bolts. When I removed one of my old ones, it was knurled. I also have a spacer on it because it's too long. But the spacers are slightly wider than they need to be. So, when the starter is bolted in, the effect of the knurl is lost. Inside the parts store, all the packages of starter bolts were either too long or too short. I decided to get some washers that will locate the self-washered end of the starter bolt into the starter housing indent. This should work a little better, but I have a back up plan to get it right. I like RIGHT.

Last night, HAMB member "burl" told me to check out "WHITE PERFORMANCE" for starter info and more bolt info. On the site, I was able to locate a stud kit that they sell. I ordered one and it should be here Thursday. The website gives a lot of good reasons for using his replacement bolts. In fact, one of the examples applies to my situation.

I'm posting a link to the site and hope it helps someone else. They also sell replacement alternators and starters, as well as other stuff at a price actually lower than my parts house. Imagine that.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=KIT-PC2106