Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects My Apache...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shane Spencer, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    thanks sqrlnts. hey guys, does anyone know if the 58/59 gmc grilles are pot metal or stamped steel ?
     
  2. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Didnt have time to get wire today. Started the blocks, for the top spring nipple that sticks up, im gonna drill and tap a hole for a grade 8 bolt. Weld the bolt inside the block and cut the bolt head off leaving the unthreaded part as the spring nipple, and then cap off the ends of the block. Heres a pic of driveshaft clearance, the shaft will actually have more clearance than in the pic

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     

    Attached Files:

  3. They're stamped steel.
     
  4. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks saxman, and i dig your shift knobs

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  5. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Knocked out the blocks. Welded the bolt inside the block and capped off the ends. Cut the bolt head off and cleaned everything up nice. Notches r done as well. This is the final ride height for the ass end. U can see the axle tube almost rides right where the old framerail was. Heres a few shots off the finished ass end

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     

    Attached Files:

  6. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Diggin it homie!!!!!
     
  7. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Damn...shit looks stout!
     
  8. six pack to go
    Joined: Aug 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,938

    six pack to go
    Member
    from new jersey

  9. thatredcaroutside
    Joined: Mar 20, 2004
    Posts: 303

    thatredcaroutside
    Member
    from Decatur,AL

    Here's what I did on my 57. I used the ends of the crossmember where they were riveted in , cleaned them up and welded them to my notched crossmember. Just tapped it in and bolted it up to the sides and flange area.
    I mounted the rear leaf spring brackets on top of the frame and swapped sides. Step notch with 3 seperate boxing plates and a few leafs out and I'll make my lowering blocks/spring perch to final ride height after final mock up. I used stock upper shock mount and I'm using the front shocks they are 2 inches shorter.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Brog
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 207

    Brog
    Member

    I read this from the beginning good stuff man. I might be close to your age also? Anyways love the ass draggin' stance, mine will be opposite and be scraping in the front haha.
     
  11. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks fellas, and im 20 y/o brog.....

    I threw a fender and bedside on for a quick look. Have about 4 1/2 inches under the rears of the fenders. Its only a half inch lower than my vw that i drive now and i neverrr scrape so thats cool. Also the rake right now isnt bad at all. I may drop the front an inch or so

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 11, 2012
  12. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,335

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Looks good. I would add some gussets if you got enough room. Prob not needed, but I like to overkill things
     

    Attached Files:

  13. shadams
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,492

    shadams
    Member

    Daaaaammmn dude, looks good. Love the block idea, going to have to steal that one as I want to lower mine a couple more inches and have 1 3/4" springs. Nice job!!
     
  14. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    thanks fellas, and tjet i was thinking about it but decided not to. the crossmembers in the back are 1/4 wall box and the notch is strong as shit too. if i bag it in the future i may box the rails and fish plate where the notches meet the framerail. we will see.... the problem with a gusset right there is the bed wood. minus the notch, im gonna be running the stock height bed floor which would hit those gussets

    also, on a side note i have to notch the front bridge bar on the notch. it will have clearance issues on the rear. just barely tho, only about 1/8" is needed
     
  15. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Good work Green! What are your plans for the bed area, as far as covering the step notch? Keep it up.
     
  16. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    The floor will be stock style wood with a bump to cover the notch. My dads a pretty badass woodworker so we will figure something out when we get there

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  17. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Are you gonna use a mustang gas tank? Or did I miss that already? My buddy had an apache and the tank cap set low enough that he made a piece of removeable trim at the end of the bed and 12" of the center strip of wood slid right out to access the gas cap. It was pretty slick.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  18. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    it would be cool to see an old wooden keg split in half and used as a tub to cover up a C notch
     
  19. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Im keepin the stock in cab tank, and dubie...... That is an awesome idea

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  20. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    Hell, anything period correct for that matter would look cool sitting there as a permanent fixture. Stick and old beat up Snap On tool chest or foot locker over the left C-notch, weld it into place and make the lid functional. Find something else for the other side....
     
  21. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I like that idea too, got the bridge bars in the way tho

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  22. Buzznut
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,349

    Buzznut
    Member

    Can you relocate the cross bars down slightly? Maybe put them midway down on the notch (just below the floor level) and then gusset the ends, with the gussets running up toward the top of the notch. I honestly don't think they have to be exactly where you put them to be effective.
     
  23. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Well the rear bar is the upper shock mount. The front i need to notch, or i may cut the middle out and angle it back to the rear bar

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  24. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    And if i moved the bars down the front would hit the 3rd member

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  25. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    so i went to the shop and just sat and looked at the bridge bars..... they just flat arent gonna work. i have a new design in my head that i think will work great. it sucks, i had the notch done by my buddy before i learned how to weld and i didnt really have everything ready to mock up and check for issues at the time. but what are you gonna do....

    how the bridge is now......

    [​IMG]

    my new design highlighted in white. this will eliminate the front bar from having clearance issues with the 3rd member and also kick the rear bar back about an inch and a half to give it tons of room. this will make the "hump" in the bed floor about an inch and a half longer front to back, but i can live with that....

    [​IMG]

    heres a pic of how high the notch will interfere with the floor. should only be about 5 inches of a hump in the floor. itll keep the bed very useful

    [​IMG]
     
  26. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Pardon the OT truck but I think you could do something along these lines but with a 50 gallon drum, then line-X it. Or use an old air compressor, or something along those lines.
    Or just let it be what it be! Come up through the floor and dissapear back into it! It is a machine let it look like one...LOL
     
  27. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Its not a bad look at all but my notch is so small and only comes up through the floor like 5 inchez so i think a small hump in the wood floor will look best and also keep the most bed space

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  28. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Do this....


    BTW... that column done yet? :D
     

    Attached Files:

  29. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    That tag say... After Meth? :D
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.