Ya Dan, I agree with you on the intake flow. My feeling right now is that with the two progressive Holley carbs at (about 200cfm each) it might be a little more than the "194" needs. This is why I am building a couple of adapters to go on that 2x4 manifold so I can try the 94's that are on the car now, they are 155cfm each. I may be all wrong so I will test them at the T&T before the March Meet.
Tom I would be dangerous if I really new what I was doing. All I know is that all Chevy 6 want better intakes and more carburetors. Most all 235/261/194 & 230 with nothing more than a little RV Cam and two or three 1bl will jump to life without making big motor changes. Throw in a better distributor and you might think you dropped a 283 sbc in your ride. I have always felt that moderation was good As Long AS You Have Enough and I am a true racer so you know I will never be satisfied.
Well I got the friction shocks installed on the front end. Strange how it is so much essayer to work in the shop when it ain't 115 deg. I love this 65-75 fall weather in the valley. I think I have covered all the suggestions and ideas to control the front end side to side bounce. Checked rim trueness (OK), Balanced both rims, Installed friction shocks, welded top of left spring shackle so the left side leaf setup aces as a pan hard rod to keep the the chassis from moving sideways in the shackles (we had about 1 1/2" movement each way) and I will run my front tires at 6-8 PSI as the cycle boys do. Now it's on to a brake system that works & will hold 2500 - 2800 RPM at the start.
The installation looks excellent. If you still have a problem then I would suggest you move the spring perches outward so they are 3" wider apart that the width of the spring when there is no load on it. For example, if the spring is 26" wide, the perch eyes should be 29" apart.
bobw, Bob, thanks for the good word and the comment on the perch eyes. I really like the shock setup and think it will work real well. After all the work and checking all the components, I really think that the lack of shocks and the high front tire pressure (we ran 22# at the race) was the cause of the problem. The rims and tire balance was not off that much. Like I told Dan, I will check it out at our first T&T in late Feb 2013. I am getting ready to order a complete brake peddle system from the Chassis Shop that consists of bracket, peddle, push rod & 3/4 master. This is the same setup I ran on the yellow altered and it worked real nice. It has a 6.8 to 1 ratio. Will mount it below the floor & have 8" of the peddle sticking through for my foot. They do have a small 5/8" cylinder that is used for hydraulic clutches and small brake systems that I may see if they will exchange. I would like to have the extra pressure that a 5/8" master will do.
I just book marked your phorum www.jalopyjournal.com on Digg and Stumble Upon. I enjoy reading your commentaries. Wish you luck!
to, i have 2 harleys and i run 38 to 40 psi on the front tires. 6 to 8 psi seems a little low to me.i tend to ride pretty fast and haven`t had a problem. just saying.
Dan, these are not your normal cruise tires, they are for road racing and have a "real hard" sidewall to hold up on heavy cornering but do have a soft tread. My young tire man sportman road races and uses a like tire and he runs 8-10# all the time. Even at 8# they are just starting to soften out a little. He said that if his are to hard he can tell in the feel from the bars that they are not right. He also said that with so little weight on the front end that the rock hard tires just compounded the problem on my car. He's a stand up kid and I'm good with his comments. Like I told Bob, I may be out in left field, it would not be the first time. We will see what it does. How you doing on your car? Better get some work done before the snow sets in and it's 28 deg in that shop.
Had some time today to work on the adapters that will mount to the Clifford 2x4 intake I got with the Holley/Weber Progressive 2 Bbl's. They have a 4 to 2Bbl adapter on them so I made some simple 1/2" thick plates to mount to them. Sat a couple of parts 94 carbs on it to see how it looks. I am going to run 1" risers so all my existing linkage will work. I think this free flowing intake will work out good with my existing Holley 94's on the 194 motor. As with everything I have done lately we will just have to see how the test goes.
wow, you`re moving along pretty darn good. my project is in a holding pattern waiting for the body. if you get done and want to test before the patch opens,you can come up to sac. the test and tune is every sat during the winter. you can come up the night before and spend the night at my house to cut the travel stress.
Dan, thanks for the offer. I've got a buddy that lives in Reno and has a home shop street rod business and said it I pull the car up there we can build a header system for it. Might try to do that mid Dec and then test at Sac while I'm up that way. Will see if it works out. I am working on the small things as the cash flow going out has been on the rise the past few months and it needs a break.
The intake adapters are looking really good. Nice work. I like the support among this group. old sparks offer is a good example. My dragster is in the unheated back garage and it has been too chilly to go back there and put the car back together. Might not get it done til spring.
Bob, Dan & his son are real nice people, long time racers and his boy is one fine tuner in the 7.0 Pro class (7.0 Index). I got to meet both of them at our ANRA Finial a few weeks ago and Dan purchased a 4Bbl intake I had to put on his Chevy 292 SDRA car he is building. I hope to make the trip up their way next month if I get this brake thing done. I new it was cold back your way as I talked to the grandkids about their high school State Playoff game they played last Friday and it was 29 deg with a 15mph wind at kickoff (felt like 15deg). They lost in the second round, but had a great season. It's just the opposite out this way as fall & winter runs 75 down to 50 and it is late spring & summer when you can't work in the shop, to hot. Dan (old sparks) lives in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada in Jamestown and sees some cold weather and a fair share of snow during the winter. It is a real nice area.
Well the 1" carb risers showed up today so I had to put it all together with some old 94 carbs to see how it looks. The risers give me clearance on both side of the throttle shaft so I can use my existing linkage. I will leave my existing 2x2 setup built off of the original intake on the car until I am able to make 2-3 full passes as a baseline, then I will install the Clifford Intake with my existing 94's and see if it makes any difference. If there ain't a good improvement you might see some nice parts for sale on the HAMB in the future. I put in a couple of pictures of the existing setup and the new one.
A person would think the Clifford would be a major improvement. It will be an interesting test. I hope is runs like "Jack the Bear".
Well lets hope so Bob. At this point I would just be happy to make a full pass to see what the current setup will do. I started modifying the sub floor support so I can fit the new brake peddle / master cylinder package. Cash is a little light so I will order it later this month.
Hey Tom got it going in the right direction it looks like. Hope you get it all the way through next time out.
Thanks, Jason. I think the front end is setup good now and should have the brake modifications done by end of the month. I can take car out on my street for a brake test and to see if I can hold 2500-3000 on the converter at the line. The motor pulled real well even with the original modified intake I have on it now. Like I said before, I would like to get 2-3 full passes with the current intake setup as a base line and then install the Clifford with the two 94's to see what it will do. Any work on your ride? Tom
Well not much going on the next few weeks as the brake peddle setup is back ordered until mid Dec. I did take the first step towards down sizing as I sold my enclosed 24' trailer and will start work on modifying a 16' dual axle utility trailer in a few weeks. Will be building a upper level 6.5'W x 9'L on front trailer section to hold my pit cart and the dragster will ride on the trailer deck below. When trailer is done I will be selling my Powerstroke Diesel Crew Cab and start looking for a Chevy truck (1949-65) as a new pull vehicle. More to come later.
Well got a little more done on the brake pedal & master cylinder remount. The new system has a pedal that works out to 5.8 to 1 ratio and it operates a new CNC 3/4" master for some additional wheel cylinder pressure. The pivot is 5/8" grade 8 bolt in a sleeve through the frame and welded both sides. Nice strong setup. I was able to move the pedal forward 2 1/2" for some additional foot room. Just need to plumb line from master to rear end. Maybe street test next week. Welded pedal is only temporary, if all works out I will cut a new one.
Dick, glad to see you back on the board. Street test this weekend if it don't rain. The movement of the pedal operates much more normal. Not sure until I test but I think the old master cylinder was not operating correctly, the new one from CNC works great with only a 6" tube connecting pedal and master. Also I was able to move the pedal 2" forward for a little more leg room. We will see this weekend.
Good luck with the street test. A video would be nice (hint, hint) Going back a bit, did you use a hole saw for the throttle bores on the adapter plates you made?
Going from a 1" master to a 3/4" master gives you an instant 75+% increase in pedal power over your previous system, a healthy improvement. Your 5.8>1 pedal multiplies that factor far more than your old 2>1. That's 2.9 x 175%, or just over 5 times as effective. There's also a leverage improvement for your leg from the extra 2 1/2" distance of course. Without base numbers all I can factor is the percentage of improvement, but all in all, 5+ times is a good thing, yes?
Ya Bob I will try to get the 12 year old that lives across the street to take one with his Ipad if he is around this weekend. 12 years old and he knows more about smart phones and computers than I ever will. Gotta love em. Yes I did use a hole saw in my drill press to cut the bore in the adapter plates. The riser came from Dashman with the bores & stud holes drilled. The hardest part was taping the stud holes and getting them straight. I had 7 pictures of the work so I put them in.
We guys & gals, I have not even checked out the new brake system on the car, can not get it out of the garage as I just picked up my new utility trailer and I have started work on modifying it to hold my pit cart and the dragster. Did run the motor on dragster last week and reset the timing as the Delco distributor with Pertronic electrics has no vac advance and the wts inside advance only 15 degrees, so I set initial setting on 21 degrees + advance of 15 degrees = 36 degrees total. Reset and balanced the two 94's. Motor sounded real good. We will see in a few weeks. Working on building the tire runners that will be mounted to a raised platform 36" above the deck to hold my pit cart. Trailer is 16' long by 6.5' wide. Dragster will roll in under the pit cart. Will be mounting a small winch that I saved from the old trailer to pull pit cart & dragster on to the trailer. A few pictures of pit cart runners.
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