I bought a Bailegh 18" bead roller. No way is the crank going to work for me. I'm thinking about adding a steering wheel geared down 2 to 1. It'll be on a shaft above the machine so that it will be on the same end as the rolls. I'd like to hear from guys with this type set up. Happy with it, or is power a must? If power how much do I need? This will only see moderate use.
Hmm .... last year a friend of mine did a redo of an HF bead roller, and then added a big wheel to the drive end. I think it is around 40" diameter. No need for power with that, but what it did take was me bending up a wheel from conduit so he had a good circle to work with. The outcome was a very easy to use beader. I then went ahead with a rehab of my own HF beader. I am able to bead 16 gauge with it, and can go pretty fast. Send me a PM and I can forward you some photos if you want. RG in Spokane
lots of guy will use an old steering wheel..im one of them, mine has a beat up 49 merc wheel attached to my old HF roller..my new one thanks to Baleigh and Tech week is powered
I used the crank as half the "spoke" and then used round circle of conduit to form a wheel the size needed to fit the crank and its other matched length half[conduit too]...this is a lot larger than a steering wheel by the way and much easier to turn whilst one handing the workpeice with your right hand and crankin the big wheel with the left one.....
I think this is what you were talking about, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178806
Thanks to all. I like the idea of the wheel on top. Seems like the wheel would make it not only easier, but more precise. That's what I'm after. Don't need speed /production, I'm trying to retire!
Hey Tinbender, You should be able to find an old Gleaner at the end of one of those wheat fields up there that you could pick over and do what I did. Grab the hydraulic package out of an old combine, along with one of the hydraulic motors and some hoses, and one of the double action hydaulic control valves. Mine were free "just junk anyway". Clean everything up, build a braket to mount the motor at the end of the roller shaft with a new Lovejoy coupler (<$20). Find a suitable electric motor, mine was an old 2hp 120VAC single phase at a yard sale. Mount it to a swing arm that will provide gravity tension on a drive belt to the pump. Mount the control valve at knee height where you can hit it while manipulating the material going through the rolls. I had to experiment a little with the belt shiv ratios but I now have a powered, reversable roll with near infinate speed control that I can run with one knee and keep two hands on the material. Works great, and with some luck scrounging parts was CHEAP, like me.
I recently purchased a Model T steering wheel hub that is about 3 to 1 reduction. It has a limiter pin in it that has to be removed to allow it to function continuously as would be necessary for this application. I bought it to use on a 9N ford tractor that has a front loader installed. When the tractor lifts a load it is very hard to steer so the 3 to 1 ratio should help. I have yet to install it on the tractor but when I saw this thread I immediatly thought about using the Model T steering wheel hub with a swapmeet steering wheel on my Bead roller. Dick
I put the steering wheel above the shafts on the infeed side. Motor drive where the crank used to be. In that way I can see whats happening while I turn the steering wheel. I pull a pin to freewheel the motor drive for manual use
I did something similar although mine is also motor powered. The winch motor I used has a release that lets the reel freewheel so you can pull cable out. I use it to disengage the motor and then I can use a handwheel for doing tight corners. You could do the same thing and just not use the motor. You can get all the sprockets and chain from Surplus Center. Having the wheel in front of you makes it much easier than reaching way out to the side.
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