i havve a 1956 chevy with a 327 with a 4 speed Muncie need to change it to an automatic seen plenty of 327's with 350 trans will it fit or will the drive shaft need to be cut any help will be greatly appreciated
measure from the block/bellhousing area to the end of the transmission. find any small block with a turbo 350 and measure it. I don't know if chevrolet used long and short tail housing.
If the 56 has the factory bellhousing and still has the front engine mounts and side mounts on the bellhousing then you'll have to add a tranny crossmember to hold the back end up. Some think that if you do this you also need to change from the front engine mounts to side engine mounts. I personally dont think its necessary but others do. If anyone saw the arrangement on the nailheads with the side mounts right at the front of the engine and the SP400 tranny mount way out back they would understand.
The biggest issue with doing away with the bellhousing mounts is lack of torsional stability. Pretty sure the Buick has the mounts higher and wider spaced where the stock Chevy's mounts were close together and more of a link than a mount.
OK I will help you out. I will GIVE you the th350 that you desire (and if you'd rather have a 400 I will even do that!) and all you gotta do is send me your trans, clutch, flywheel, bell housing and linkage ..... I am a nice guy.
Shit, I'd be tempted to DO the conversion for him, IF I get the 327/Muncie. Put in a 350/TH350, hook it all up and finish it. All that because a 327/Muncie is almost the finest sbc combo around. Possibly THE best. Cosmo
Changing your car shouldn't have to be justified,,A lot of us have physical limitations that is not going to stop us from enjoying our cars. This guy's not ready to give up his hot rod & want's to drive his car in some sort of comfort,,believe me I know how he feels. HRP
hey look around for a 200R. My 55 was a 6cy pg car. I added side V8 mounts, 200R and didn't even have to mess with the driveshaft. runs 70mph all day 2100rpm 3.55 gears
Listed below are the critical dimensions of the T56 in comparison to T5 and traditional four-speed transmissions. Metric dimensions are converted to inches, rounded off to the nearest 0.1 inch. Trans model<table cellspacing="10"><tbody><tr><td> </td> <td>A</td> <td>B</td> <td>C</td> <td>D</td> <td>E</td> <td>F</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GM Super T10, Muncie, Saginaw</td> <td>6.3</td> <td>14.2</td> <td>23.0</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>3.75</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GM T5 (V8)</td> <td>6.3</td> <td>16.0</td> <td>25.0</td> <td>19.0</td> <td>21.2</td> <td>3.75</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GM T56 F-car (production)</td> <td>4.9</td> <td>21.0</td> <td>26.4</td> <td>21.1</td> <td>23.9</td> <td>3.75</td> </tr> <tr> <td>GM T56 F-car (aftermarket)1</td> <td>6.3</td> <td>21.5</td> <td>27.0</td> <td>21.6</td> <td>21.6</td> <td>3.75</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Ford T5</td> <td>6.9375</td> <td>14.5</td> <td>24.125</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>5.5</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Ford Toploader</td> <td>6.375</td> <td>13.25</td> <td>24.125</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>5.5</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Mopar 383</td> <td>7.38</td> <td>15.28</td> <td>27.01</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>N/A</td> <td>2 or 2.76</td> </tr> </tbody> </table> Notes: 1. Dimensions B through E include 0.5-inch-thick adapter plate
I too would have to second the 200r4 as well. As long as your going for comfort, you might as well quite things down and get better milageas well.
Yep in the work place it is against the law to ask that question. Sometimes an auto is just a better choice for some people. Lets just leave it at that. If it were me I may go with a long shaft T350 and get the drive shaft shortened. Then if you decide to go with an AOD at a later date a 700R4 is a bolt in.
on my 40 that has a 327 and muncie that was built in 1972 I used the front sbc mounts and a trans mount. when I pulled the engine recentley to freshen it up I discovered I had a broken trans ear. so I just finished installing side mounts to solve that problem. back then stability and such wasn't a thing to worry about like it is today. I used and still using a early 60' chev p/u bellhousing that has the clutch arm on the right side w/ a slave cyl. for me it worked perfect. used the dual p/u m/c and there you go. but in the end I have heard to many horror stories over the years about front and rear mounts and no side mounts. just my 5¢ worth. sorry but I still believe real hot rods still have 3 pedals. alan
The side mounts are easy to fabricate orr that can be bought. There is no reason not to run them if you are still using a front mount instead of a later block with side pads.
Have you found a trany yet? I have a fresh 350 with a shift kit and no stall and am doing a 4 speed conversion... I run the 350 in my daily driver (2 to 4 miles per day...5 days a week) it works great but I want to shift I see you live in Georgia...I am in Florida...let me know if you are interested in my trany as it is a very good one
GO with want you want and like. You should be able to make money on the deal selling all the stick parts and pcs. All the 55-57 clutch pedal assly. parts, linkages etc. are hard to find. I converted my Powerglide car to a 4 speed and it was a bitch finding everything I needed. You have some excellent responses to your posting here.
The Jalopy Journal
