*****brake line preferences*****

Are all steel brake lines about the same quality? Are any better that others? N.A.P.A.....Auto Zone....Advance....????.......Are they all China crap?

-Thanks....or maybe not

 

Dennis, I've always bought my line's from AutoZone just because I like the green coating that's applied to the line. They hold up well in the weather without rusting and seem to be good quality. I've never had a line split or brake on me after I've cut and flared them. Not sure where any of the line are manufactured though!!

 

Thanks, good to know.

 

Are you building your own? The pre-made ones are all about the same, but the rolls of tubing come in various qualities.

I buy the rolls that have a black poly coating on the outside, so I know they won't rust from the outside.

A good flaring tool is 95% of the battle, I spent the money to buy the turret style.

 

I,ve used the green coated one from NAPA as well
Look and work great , I ,think they Are labeled as kink free or resistant
Either way , great product .

 

I have pretty much stopped using steel lines unless its a resto, or just a small repair.
Now if I am running all new lines I pay a few bucks extra and get the EZ bend Nickle/Copper line in a roll. Most part stores carry it now (atleast in CT and NH) and it bends so nice, flares so nice, wont rust out (the coated steel does rust) and can be lightly polished to look nice. I also use it for fuel lines and such.

 

The 5/16 30" pre flared steel line I got at the local NAPA store 3 days ago had "Made in the USA" on the label sticker.

Ed

 

My local NAPA stopped carrying the plain steel lines. I use the green stuff when it won't be seen, but I like plain steel for fuel lines to the carbs.

Hey Joe, do you need a line straightener with that coiled stuff, or does it straighten out pretty good by hand? ~ Scott

 

NAPA Line I picked up Sat is marked "Polymer coated". Going to cut it down and try to use it for a transmission line buried under a blast shield if I can get a small enough bend radius into it. Coating doesn't appear to bonded too tight, I'll know how just how tight in a few days.

Ed

 

I hate that green stuff. It's softer than the steel lines, and every single time I've used it for repairs on a daily, I crank it down, bleed it out, and the first hard stop the pressure squeezes the flare a bit more and they leak, I have to tighten them again.

I presume that's all anyone carries now, for premade line anyways.

 

Scott et al: The EZ bend rolls straighten very nicely by hand, even easier/nicer than 3/8" alum fuel line by far.
I just ran a length on a 40 Ford frame at the shop and the line looks like it was made for it including the one little roll out to go around the x member attaching point.

If using the poly coated line, it is recommended that you remove the coating from the section that actually gets flared-the last 3/16-1/4 or so inch depending on line size used. This means that the actual flare is not coated. It should be protected from the elements as it is inside the flarenut anyhow.

 

Coating came off one end of the leftover piece easy with the wire wheel on my bench grinder, scuff pad shined it well, no idea how long before the rust starts.

Worked out good for the tranny line. Made the flares first then filled it with fine dry sand, capped, and got the tight bends I needed by hand. Shot some electrical cleaner through it to clean it out any remaining sand dust before installation. Be awhile before we run the car enough to see how long the flares hold up. If I get to making a spare I'll brush the coating off the flared ends first and add a dab of never seize to the outside under the flare nut as well as the nut threads.

Ed

 

With most hot rods/collector cars you get quite a bit of time before any rust starts. Daily drivers tend to rust a bit quicker as they see more wet roads and or salt in these areas.
And the actual flared end is usually protected from direct elements as it is inside the flare nut.

 

I have good luck with AZ items so far. Come in various lengths, double flared, easily bent,.... Still need to do cutting / flaring, but the pre done items are easy to work with.

4TTRUK

 

I much prefer the cuprio nickel line. Much easier to bend and won't rust. You can polish it up for looks too.


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If you have to cut and flare them, AVOID the coated lines. They will slip in your flare tool.

FYI, you can also buy 3/16" X.035 stainless tubing in 20' lengths from most metal suppliers. It's not listed as "brake line", just a size of tubing. The BEST way to go, IMO...

 

Once you try the copper/nickle alloy line, you will never go back to steel.

 

I used Cunifer lines on the coupe, super easy to work and I get a kick out of the people telling me "you can't use copper line for brakes". Check it out at the Fedhill link below.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

 

x 2 Definitely or stainless

 

Good advice with the cooper/nickel brake line. I'm a tech in MA, I do a lot of rusted plow truck work I have not yet had to replace any that I have already done. I have been using it for about 5 years now comes in a roll of 25 feet, easy to bend and flare. The next best thing to stainless.

 

Beware of just buying stainless tube as it will be hard to flare and may split, you should look for double annealed tube.

 

I bought a 25' roll of copper nickel brake line at NAPA, and will give it a try. As the roll comes with no fittings, I plan on using brass fittings. I guess they are compatible with the copper nickel line. If not, let me know.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Absolutely compatible.

 

I like the Fed Hill stuff. Just got done running new lines on my 53 a few weeks ago. VERY easy to work with!

 

I have been using "Bundy flex" all my adult life. I think stainless steel is over kill and most of the time it is just a status symbol.

My cars don't get angel hair and and Christmas tree illuminating rotating color wheels under them at shows. So take that into consideration. They look clean underneath.

I make up the lines replacing the ugly long inverted flare fittings. I polish them on a buffing wheel, a coat of rattle can clear and install. By the time the clear wears off, the galvanizing wears through and the the base metal rusts through I'm sure I will be long gone. As long as I will own it they will look good and save me at least a hundred bucks in materials and a hard time flaring the SS.

How many times a year do you brag..."I've got SS brake lines do you?" Whoopy!