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Getting the castor right on a front crossmember (pics)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Boxcar's 1928, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. i like to set chassis up at desired ride height with the wheels and tires that are going to be used. this iliminates any suspension and driveline problems ,a final caster of 5 to 7 degrees will make the car handle well.
     
  2. nulbmanager
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 29

    nulbmanager
    Member

    Damn...thanks for help better late than never :(
     
  3. nulbmanager
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 29

    nulbmanager
    Member

    The motor should be at 0 degrees on the plane too, correct?
     
  4. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    So let me see if I got this right. In his first picture he has the cross member going in the "WRONG" direction CORRECT? It should be going in the other direction? Just a little confused after reading all of this post.
     
  5. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    The surface of the carb mounting base should be level.
     
  6. He had it going the right way, just not enough. If it was at 4*, which he stated, then he adds 3* of rake, the rake takes away from the 4* leaving 1* which would not be enough.
     
  7. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,121

    Andy
    Member

    the front crossmember angle really has nothing to do with the caster. The crossmember should be set so the spring is perpendicular to a line from the spring eyes at ride heigth thru the radius rod pivot point. The caster is set by bending the radius rods or adjusting the hairpins. I heat and bend the perches to take out any bind as the last step. I make new ends for the Ford radius rods with a drop for tie rod clearance and to increase caster.
    I know I will be called a fool but I have been at this for 50 years and have been pretty successful with my rides.
     
  8. Can't call someone who has success a fool.
    Many ways to accomplish this. Sounds like you have a good formula.
    If the crossmember has angle built in, and the spring is square to the xmember, and the axle is square to the spring, it works as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2012
  9. nulbmanager
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 29

    nulbmanager
    Member

    Thanks for all the help and knowledge
     
  10. check out pete and jaked site they have some good info on chassis set up. Drive line angles set at desired ride hight are more inpotrant than intake angles. intakes can be milled or custom angled spacers made.
     
  11. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Setting up the x-member to the proper castor angle will prevent the spring and the shackles from being in a bind from the get go. I think this the way Henry Ford did it too. It worked for him for many years. :)
     

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