Projects My Apache...

Thanks guys, buzznut ill check that paint out. I was gonna go red, but theres so many red or orange i just wanted sumthin a little differnt and hadnt seen many gold. Tjet, i was thinking about modifying the tiedown, its not as close as the pics make it look. Idk we will see.....

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So i started messing with the front clip horns. They old rad support brackets were booger welded on. And the bumper brackets were boogered onto them. I capped the front horn and made some nicer mounts for the rad support

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Lookin good, lookin good!! ^^^^^^^^

 

hey buzznut did you run a proportioning valve with that master ?

 

thanks man, dude i saw what sandy did to the shoebox. fuckin blows, whats the deal with that now ?

 

You can do the following adjustable proportioning valve, which is great because you can mount it anywhere you want.

 

Yeah i was looking at something very similar to that, but i was also reading online that the dual master cylinder setup for manual disc/drum doesnt need a prop. valve, at least thats what some people are saying. Still not sure....

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What do yall think about the crossmember notch on this truck ? You guys think itll be stout enough ?

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No.... Looks like it could fold up pretty easily!

 

Thats what i figured, i was thinking of making a mini step notch out of box tubing

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Twist city there...I agree with connecting the sides for sure.

I have been told by many brake guys that I wouldn't need a prop valve with this set-up so I was going to wait to see. The worse case I think the rear brakes would come on too soon. What I am wondering though is about a residual pressure valve. I need to read up more on this. I know that CPP and Stainless Steel Brakes both offer the residual pressure valve/block as part of their kit...I'm just not sure how I decide of how much residual pressure I need and what valve / block I should buy.

 

I was reading online and alot of guys said that the chevelles etc etc that came with the manual disc/drum setup needed no prop valve. It is apparently all done in the master. The one speedway sells says clearly, designed for disc/drum application. Im curious

Also the pic of that crossmember was in the truck build that had the battery box idea and 55 car dash. For all the great things he did in that truck idk why he didnt rethink that notch. I was just curious if i was the only one who thought that looked weak. I thought about box tubing but im just gonna build mini step notches out of plate steel. If one of you guys could measure the cab floor to crossmember clearance id greatly appreciate it

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Looking killer! I am probably going to order one of those c-notch kits as well. Congrats on all the work, I'm jealous!!

 

Thanks man, My buddy nick did the step notch for me before i could weld. If i ever need to do a notch again ill get another kit from them. The edges mate up perfectly and form a perfect pocket to get good penetration and a good looking weld

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I have the one you mentioned, but I thought it was smarter to be able to adjust it further since I don't know how the truck is going to act in different weather. It wasn't very expensive, like 20 to 30 bucks and easy to install. Just go for it and hide it.

 

Residual pressure is different from Proportioning. Residual pressure maintains a certain amount of fluid in the lines so that the piston response is more immediate as opposed to fluid bleeding back into the master cylinder and piston reaction taking longer...or so it's been described to me, again, I need to research this more. Proportioning simply adjusts the amount of pedal pressure that is allocated to the front and back...proportioning it according to your personal preference which is usually determined by the delay (or lack of delay) between the front and rear brake circuits.

 

Yeah ill go ahead and get one, looks pretty easy to hide

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Yeah from what i had read the proportioning was all done in the master. The residual pressure ill have to read into more

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So the front frame horns and rad support mounts are done, i smoothed everything out as good as possible. I capped the horns with scrap leftover from the old shock crossmember so there pitted some. ill have the driveshaft notches done early next week most likely. Minus the notches and setting up my brake master the frame work is pretty much done. Heres a pic of the chassis thus far. Im still kinda intimidated by frame work but i think i just need to go for it.....

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http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=21944&pictureid=429482

Green, this is where I hid my proprtioning valve/residual valve for the rear drums. Speedway stuff.

 

Final install of the prop valve.

 

^^ very clean i like that a lot

 

hey when you want to do upholstery stuff let me know I can get you some high quality stuff for cost. Let me know man, this build is going to be sick.

It is looking awesome so far. I feel like I am one step behind everyone else since I had such a basket case. Keep it up brother. Love the progress.

 

Shit, your truck is in damn good shape man. Im still debating if i wanna actually do the upholstery myself or not but i will deff keep that in mind. Your thread was one of the main reasons i decided to get mine going and start doing work asap lol. I needed to get off my ass and do something. If you look back earlier in the thread i poste a pic of the interior look i want. You think a rookie like me could do that ? Ill need some pointers on that type of stuff, you seem to know what your doing in that area wayyyy more than the average joe

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also on a side note, my vin tag must have rusted loose somewhere when i was haulin ass around town. anyone know where to get a tag made ? or am i opening a whole legal can of worms here

 

They repop tags for a reason otherwise they wouldnt sell them. You have your vin from your title right?

 

Yessir, just wasnt sure if a new tag was an issue or not.

Also how do you do piping on seats ? The picture is on page 9 for what im trying to acheive. Ill have to do some research on this

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You are not confusing the blue aluminum tag that is fastened to the driver door pillar with the VIN tag that is mounted high on the driver windshield post? I have never seen VIN tags as reproduction, but I have seen the blue tags offered as reproduction. The blue tag would carry stampings that give Trim Style and Paint Color (no VIN).

 

As they are on my truck.

 

My VIN is in a different location than that, looks like right above/below the GVW rating tag on the door frame.

As far as the piping goes some of it simply consists of is a long piece of plastic tubing and you sew down the edge of it. OR you can do the thing I will do and just buy a 25 foot roll of premade piping . You can get it in a thousand different colors too. I will be posting pictures soon of the progress on my seat. Unfortunately, we haven't received the bottom seat cushion foam so it would have been a waste to go down there (45 minute drive) and the material he ordered for me because we ran out was the wrong material. So that really blows... I did, however, tear my seat down to the bare frame and will be removing the bottom sheet metal pan and then going through and screwing/bolting my plywood down with my strapping. Real easy stuff, which means you should do your own too!