Help me with my 33 - 34 Ford frame, buy or build??

What is everybodys opinion on building a stock Ford chassis for a 33 Ford? Should I box the stock one or buy a perimeter frame and start from there? Here is what I plan on using

front suspension, Mordrop axle, reverse eye spring, split 33 wishbones

rear suspension, 40 rear with Winters quick change center, Model A spring and triangulated rear radius rods.

motor is a 331 Cadillac backed by a S10 5 speed

steering is also up in the air, F1 or F100 or stock 33 box or cross steer Vega???


If using an aftermarket frame which one??? Any help is appreciated

 

A lot depends on you skill level,,if you use the stock frame I would suggest boxing it and modify what needs to be done,,but if your not a welder or have some friends that can help it might be wise to purchase a new frame. HRP

 

Personally, I would use an original frame if I could. That way you will already have the crossmembers set up properly for the spring setups you are going to use. I had no luck finding an aftermarket frame locally for my 34 that wasn't set up for anything except coilovers, Chevy mounts and all the other bellybutton items street rodders use.

 

I can weld boxing plates in but I was thinking I just bought my dream car and really want the car done right. If I use the stock frame I will be looking for some hired help.

 

I was thinking something like this from Vendetta. Are they still in business?

 

That looks good for what you are going to use for suspension. I would have preferred that frame over what I bought.

 

I used a T C I frame that they told me would bolt right up to my 33 5 window. When I tryed to put the body on it fit like a saddle on a sow. I called them and told them what I had and they asked me who built my body. When I told them henry ford they snickered and said they built their bodys for glass cars. I had to cut up a perfect body to fit the frame. Never again will I listen to fast talking salesmen that promise you the world until the get your money then so long sucker. Build your own frame and it will fit. thats my story and I'm stickin' to it.

 

Use the original frame of course!

 

Is your frame bad? Sprung or rusted? I was able to get a really cherry 34 coupe frame for my 34 ford coupe body and I don't think I'd have needed an aftermarket frame for my build...even though I plan to bob the rear frame horns, box it, already installed a flatter front crossmember and weld up a hole on each frame rail for P.O's exhaust, replace rear crossmember and modified center X for a T-5 tranny.
A custom frame to meet all my needs would have cost a PILE of money! I'd rather spend that $$$ on bodywork and fun stuff for the car.

 

Id use a ford frame
Unless the X member is completely removed why box it?

 

I ran into something similar. My frame was too narrow in the back for the spreader bar or the fenders to fit properly. I should have double checked everything but he built it on a jig so I "assumed" it to be correct.Also should not have waited a year later to find it out. I prefer original frame if possible.

 

Is there anything wrong with the stock frame? Lets see some pics.
Do you have the skills and the gear needed to box a frame and change the X-member for the t-5 THAT would be the answer to your question..

Scotty

 

Or try this.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=653704

Scotty

 

I would always prefer to use a stock original frame, Box it up and do the repairs would be my advice.
Personally i absolutely hate TCI frames, they always have a square edge on them, not the nice rounded edge the Ford frames have.

 

Rocky, did you actually replace the 34 rear cross member with something else, or just flatten the stock 34 rear cross member? If you replaced it, what did you replace it with???

 

The fact that an original frame has a serial number might make it easier to register.

Charlie Stephens

 

My frame is not to bad, it is straight and has a little bit of scaly rust right at the rear kickup between the two frame pieces. My original intentions were to box the stock frame front and rear and flatten the front crossmember and graft an A rear crossmember to the stock 33 crossmember ends. If I go with the stock frame I would like to let someone else do that part of the project to move things along. Can you guys recommend anyone??? I will take some pics tomorrow and post them. Again thanks for all the input.

 

I have found that original Ford frame rails seem to ALWAYS fit the car better than aftermarket stuff. In fact I have not ever found ANY aftermarket stuff to be as good a the stuff HENRY sold 80 years ago.



34 Ford frames are stronger than the previous 32 Ford frames ( which are better than the Model A frames ). I suggest boxing the front and the rear and calling it done

 

Josh, modify your original frame. You'll thank yourself for doing so in the future. These frames are pretty stout to begin with and I'll bet you'd wad up that t5 with the cad before you twist the frame. Check out curbspeed's tech on adding a model a rear crossmember.

 

Just asking
Why box a frame rail that is already doubled up front and rear by the X member?

 

Having repaired a couple of these original frames, as well as assembling a new frame - using the new "stamped" rails, I feel somewhat qualified to comment on this issue. Also, I'm in the process of repairing the original frame for my '34 5 window project. I walked out to the garage and snapped a few photos of what I've done so far.

Here's what a lot of these frames look like (here in the eastern US, anyway) in this rear "kick up" area. Rust forms between the outer frame rail and the inner X-member frame rail.



I cut out the really bad sections, fabricated new sections, and welded them in place. As the photos show, the sections were much worse than was visable from the exterior surface. I'd already had this frame sandblasted. I've a little more grinding to do, then I can paint the inner surfaces, before re-attaching the outer frame rail.

 

Are you putting that three window in your avatar on this chassis? Nothing wrong with a stock frame with the driveline combo you have in mind. And it should not have to be boxed, the stock x-member runs most of the length of the rails, and the end result is a plenty strong frame. Good luck with the project, and I really like your choice of engine!

 

I re-read my post and noticed that I failed to add my comment regarding the choice between using an original frame and one of the reproduction frames. After going through all the trouble to assemble one of the original frames (the rails are too flat and have to be pulled outward to match the original frame's contour), I've decided that it's worth repairing and using an original frame.

 

No need to box a frame unless you are circle track racing. Give this some serious thought. The frame has to resist vertical forces. If there were horizontal forces on the frame the car would move side ways.

 

This original frame was shot, full of holes rotted sagged and twisted, Put it in the jig cut everything loose, square it up and start fixing. Easy to do when its in a tight jig. Fix the original if you have it. I am not far away in new york if you need assistance, I do alot of 33-34 fords. Good luck.

 

Uncle Jess - nice work!

 

Josh,
Check your PM I was just at Tim's talkin' about you.
Smokey

 

Here is the frame. Uncle Jess, that is exactly what I am looking to do with mine.

 

SS34coupe, yes the frame will be for the 3 window in my avatar.

Yekoms, I will be calling you soon.

4ever18 thanks for the pics, My frame has the same issues.

 

From what I see in the photos of your car's frame, my choice would be to make the repairs to this frame - rather than replace the frame with a new one. You'll save money and have something that you'll be happier with, in the long run. Best wishes, sir.