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Few Chevy clutch related questions.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ryangobie, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. ryangobie
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 460

    ryangobie
    Member
    from Jersey

    I've been having trouble logging on so while I got in figured I'd ask a question. After a pretty long break from my car to tinker with a number of bikes I'm back on my 53 chevy. Clutch wouldn't disengage. I have a few issues. Input snout binding in the pilot being one of them but that's easy enough. The other has to do with my clutch fork. I have a standard aluminum truck bell: GM6263756. Which is fine because I have a truck 5 speed and the opening is the right size for it. The issue seems that the clutch fork doesn't seem long enough. Took a shot to get some opinions.

    [​IMG]

    The tangs that push the throwout aren't in the center which in my mind would imply that as it pushes it's going to side load the throwout a little. I've been running the bell number in hopes I could get some applications to look up a proper fork but haven't found anything beyond "lots of GM trucks." I need a straight fork though as I've made some brackets to run a slave cylinder with this bell. Maybe I should just stick to bikes...
     
  2. SKULL ORCHARD
    Joined: Jul 22, 2009
    Posts: 431

    SKULL ORCHARD
    Member
    from KS
    1. The Gas House Gang

    they do make pivot balls for the fork in short and long style, which makes the fork move a longer distance when loaded with pressure. good luck , fork to use would be the one that works with your slave cyl.
     
  3. ryangobie
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 460

    ryangobie
    Member
    from Jersey

    Cheers. Thanks for the reply. The slave is from an astro van with a wilwood master. With the earlier truck bell linking up a 283 and a t5. it's a bit of a mishmash. here's a better picture of what i was getting at.

    [​IMG]

    the welding rod is the center of the bell where the input shaft and bearing retainer etc would be. it appears as though the distance from where the fork rides on the pivot ball to where the fingers hold the throwout is too short. It doesn't seem right and I don't know whether this distance is common amongst all GM or if there are certain bell/fork specific combos and I've run into one.
     
  4. Can you assemble your trans and bell housing and then slide the TO bearing on? That will tell you if the fork will work. What does the truck clutch fork (that matches the bell) look like? Different length?
     

  5. Fatkid138
    Joined: Feb 18, 2013
    Posts: 21

    Fatkid138
    Member

    Ryangobie. Tried to message you about the 49-54 chevy leaf springs. It wouldn't let me send it because you need to clear out some space for messages. Pm me if you get a chance



    Meanwhile at the Hall of Doom!
     
  6. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Yes, the raised part of the throw out arm that contacts the throwout bearing should be close to the centerline of the transmission or the bearing will bind on the transmission. I would think that a dealer could come up with part numbers for arms that match the bellhousing. If not, you might have to find a set in a salvage yard.
     

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