Projects T-Pain's Build: 28 Tudor

very nice job on the frame and chop. I like your mini tubs on the rear wheels. the tubs I used on my tudor were fab to stop above the bottom body frame piece which left me in some pretty thin "tin'. Going down that extra 1 inch is a lot better.
Are you going to use a 32 tank out back or fab one on the inside????????
I will be following, thanks

 

Nice work!
I really like Model A's on Deuce rails because it completes the lower edge of the body. If it was me, I'd made a few slices on the frame rail right at the cowl area and pull the frame rails up a little higher. Your chop has such a nice shape that a little pinch work on the frame would really make it look sinister.

I can't tell from the pics so far, but are you going fendered or hiboy? If you're going fendered, the pinch work I mentioned above will do wonders for your tire to fender gap. For proportion, a chopped Model A MUST have the tires tucked as high as possible in the front fenders, and they are the only car I would ever run a 14" front wheel on.

Great job so far! Outstanding work on the chop. Your Dad has got this stuff figured out!!

 

Thanks all for the comments....

Flat and Low...it'll be a highboy...as for wheels, I'm just trying to digest the options. There's too many for a guy like me.

In general I've some expanding on what/how we did what we did and some questions for the group. I just walked in the door from my trip.

LAter
Boxcar

 

^^^^^^^ hell yeah !, what he said

 

ronbo..
I'm planning a custom tank inside...4-5 in deep and spanning the back. Were playing with the idea of crating a delivery door in back as well. Hidden hinges for the door as well. I'm sorta looking for a donor rear skin to fab a door out of. I believe it would make life alot easier if we had a donor...and I'm not fond of the glass ones so.... I'd expect that If we do the door...the tank will create an elevated deck that I'll attempt to do some trick woodwork on...an I forgo any rear seating....maybe a jump seat...dunno.

 

Interested............looks good!

 

Like how it's going,nice,3in. chop is just right!

 

Where did the pix on page one go? Gary

 

Sorry dude...I'll look into it.

There all there as far as i can see.

 

If i had to do it again I think I'd done 4 but a 3 is pretty painless. As far as the front post goes...we had to add a strip of metal to take up the 16th of an inch that accounted for slight taper of the post that I cut out. To better decribe what we had... the upper post when tacked to the lower portion of the post was about a 16th thinner than its bottom mate...that difference was kept to the front side as to not mess with the inside of the jamb.

thanks for the complement.

I'm hoping to get back on it in October or November. I'm currently geographically seperated from my car.

 

They're back! Thanx, Gary

 

Going to get some shop time...finally. Chassis work pics soon to come.

 

Moultre Swap Meet GA today...got a original Vega steering box. I thought the show was smaller...it may be there was a few vindors that I was looking for that was not there...I don't know.

 

good looking project, still getting used to a 3 in chop myself, i could only imagine a 4, ill be following this especially the fuel tank install, i just have a tanks 14 gal upright in mine behind the back seat if you could all it that i guess, not sure if its what i want yet.

 

Hey thanks TACOS...I'm undecided on my tank...going to have to weigh the options....I'd guess that behind the seat (upright) make a small back seat space that much smaller. My put it under (laying flat) under the seat to save some space...but I don't know yet.

Back on it and having a slow start...pulling the body off tomorrow. Today we got all the body mount points in place / drilled / and welded the nut inside the frame. Moving on to boxing plates...then kmember fab and front crossmember and so on. Today I fabbed two small extentions to the lower cowl to clean-up that gap at the bottom. They are welded up now but no pic of it...tomorrow.

 

On another note...I'm looking for some reference points that someone may help me with.

- Anybody have a good k-member builders reference...measurements, a pic or a few.
- Spring-over shock spacing with axel...i'm installing the rear crossmember that the top of the spring wi attach too.
- I'f space was no issue ...how much clear space between the furthest point forward...at the front of the motor to the rear surface of the electric fan would you allow yourself...I'm thinking 2-3 at the moment. IS THAT too little or two much? We are putting this A on a 106 WB...and may have to take a little from the firewall as well.
- Would you run any conduits in the frame?...front lights maybe. Rear ????
- I'm planning to set both the rear & front crossmembers at a 3.5 to 4 degree camber with the frame toprail flat on the table...Does that sound "ballpark" for a guy planning on getting the rest from rake and tires??

thanks all.

 

Frame work so far... Body mounting points complete so we can set the body off to the side and get the chassis going.
Here's what we did to support the back of the body...

To keep it all in place during the boxing plate install and all the rest...we secured the outside of the rails with some steel and tac welds that'll get cut away later. We're thinking this is going to work for us.

Front horns now secured and the tables original layout angle removed so we can have full access to the inside of the rails


All ready to go to town!!!
We had pinched and flattened the fraim rails so we knew the boxing plates were going to need a small cut to pull down and fit the rails


Cutting out the C notch and trimming it up

I believe these rails were Dearborne...were kinda wavy. We ended up tacking where it was good and well go back and pull the high spots down till were complete. Skip welding as we go...

Tomorrow...the other side

 

awesome!

 

You never seem to get enough done.... with the boxing plates tacked in place we moved towards layout of the tri-angulated 4 link, k-member, and front crossmember.

Hopefully this will get us into the ballpark...took a pipe to mimic the rear axle...set the spacing at 5 1/2 below the c-notch to get us accurate with the 4 link layout. This was a guess taken from my fathers 33 Ford as it sets. It was a guess and I do have some adjustment in the 4 link.


Front crossmember (JW Rod Shop) was made with castor built in...

Hopefully 3.5 to 4 degrees on the table...and level should get me where I want to be when I get the whell and tires under it.

With the front crossmember in place we tried to get the remaining references in place to start the k-member fab. With the radiator in place I measured off 6" to the start of the engine. Hopefully that'll get me the space I need for the elect fan and some room for my hand to slip in between for minor work.

Storyboard has all the references..

www.dropshots.com/boxcar#date/2012-11-25/19:03:39][/url]
First time setting in it...I had to!!!



Rear seat is doubtful....driver has long legs

 

btt for some comment. Just looking for some crosscheck.

 

This is about 2 1/2" from the fan to the pulley. I think it looks porportional.

I've ran all my wires and fuel lines and such in the frame rails of my cars and not used conduit. Maybe I'm lucky but I have never had any issues.

Car looks great! Keep up the good work.

 

Looks great!
I have wideed my -32 frame for may -31 tudor, so it follow the body lines better, like the -28 roadster on -32 frame.
Im going to mount the roadster i bought from you on a -32 frame.

 

Awesome Nick...thanks for that
I do love that look the 32 frame has as it follows the body drip edge. Look forward to seing some of that detailed in a build thread.

 

One step fwd...and two back.... Got the crossmember wrong with too little caster. Opened up a thread to discuss it in detail. Long story short. It's get cut out and re welded at 10 degrees vs the 4 showing in the pics.

Prase the HAMB for having 10 or so fellas willing to get a new guy pointed in the right direction!!!!!

 

I like to have 8 degree, thats take the steering wobbeling of, so 10 its great, thats around 7-8 degree with the frame/rubber rake when its on the ground.

 

Got a little something for the car today. 60-63 Chevrolet pick-up dash.


I originally seen this dash on a European Model A truck build called "Juxtapod" they actually cut it down and gutted both sides for an "open look" mine will have traditionally mounted gages.

Here's what the Euro modded dash looked like after it was cut down.

The most awesome part of this dash is that a total stranger...just wanting to help a brother out went out and pulled it from his local autosalvage. Price was very reasonable...I sent him the cash when he said he pulled it... I picked it up 4 months later and wrapped it up with a hand shake and some car chat. Thanks Brad!

 

NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE dash idea. Gary

 

Some progress... K-member now in place. Used 1 1/4 square stock. Frame welding finished off with a shop built rotissery (sorry no pics) Boxing plates finished welded. Power Booster and MC in place. Slipped the mill in to see how it's looking. Going to wait on tacking the motor mounts in till the new parts order comes in... Elect fan and Block Huggers from Hooker.


Disregard the x brace on the top of the rails....Dad does not take chances with movement...He's a good guy to have on your team! Thanks Dad.

 

Got the motor in place and brackets welded in...have about 2 1/4 inch spacing between the motor and fan...should work. Originally set the wheel base at 106" and have now pushed it to 107"..that'll do it.

Got the hole in the firewall cut out and a cardboard mock-up for the rough planning...this won't be as fancy as some but it'll work out. Firewall set back 1 1/2" - 2"