In another thread I outlined my plans to see if my 216 engine worked or should I just ditch it for a 235. The main deciding factor was cash, i.e. a few bucks on some paint and a few hours of my time vs a few hundred bucks (which are scarce) on a different engine. I reinstalled the the 216 back into my 47 Chevy, and set about getting it ready for a test firing. I Macguivered together a bare bones wiring "harness", just some wires to the coil and electric choke with a switch and inline fuse. After a few failed attempts, including the occasional fireball, I had started to concede failure and grieved over the 20 bucks I had wasted. Then thanks to some HAMB researching, I ran across the possibility of the dizzy being 180 degrees out. Did the old finger over #1 cylinder trick and determined this was may be my issue. Shuffled out this morning, rubbing sleep from my eyes, battery was recharged so I gave it another go. Up she springs into life!! That blasted engine probably hasn't been run in YEARS. I just need to set the timing and fabricate some carb linkage....I don't think the string attached to the carb is a long term solution. Motivation went on vacation, but now he's back!
I havnt had my coffee yet but is that carb turned shouldnt the floats be front and back and the linkage be on the side??
Irish, That string is definately not going to work, fishing line man, you need fishing line. Duh. So your time and money wasn't wasted, doesn't that make you feel like a king? That is just too kool for school man.
Yep, the carb is facing the wrong way. Due to my headers, etc, if I'm to utilize the original rod type carb linkage (and fabricating some steel rod) then I have to snake it through the headers. The jury is still out on that though. If I can't make it work then I'll just go ahead and spend the dough on a pedal/cable assembly. If that's the case then I'll just turn the carb around.
Heh heh. That's a great feeling, ain't it? Whenever I hear them fire up for the first time I always feel like Dr. Frankenstein. "IT'S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE!!"
What you need is an old remote brake peddle from a driver's ed car. I have one that I have been saving from a 1954 drivers ed car, cast aluminum, heavy cable and even a little pully if I need it.
I got a pedal/cable setup out of an early 70's Pontiac Ventura, You could find one just about anywhere! No need to shell out $$$$ when $ will get the job done....and it's more "traditional". That's what the hot-rodders did...get your stuff from the junk yards!
i dont know i do like the looks of the engine , but i just drank the 4th cup of java , and its a toss up which thrilled me more
I think I'm going down the pedal/cable assembly road. The more I looked at it, the less comfortable I became with making the original rod linkage work. Just too many possible binding and snagging points in there if I were to try and snake a twisty piece of solid metal up there. Now that's it cool weather, I'm going to have to search the local Pick-n-Pulls for a pedal assembly as has been suggested!
If you want to use a rod linkage, you would need a swing arm to modify the direction of the pull. You could mount it to the inner fender.
Alas, after running the engine for a while and revving it like a 7 year old child, I discovered it had a crack on the block. A 3 inch hairline crack on the exterior where oil would sweat through when warmed up. To be totally honest, I'm kind of glad because now I'm going to source a 235 and stick it in. That was the original plan and tinkering with the 216 was a case of satisfying my curiousity to see if it even ran. I wasted a few bucks on paint and a few hours of my time. I can live with that. The various parts I did originally purchase, I purchased with knowing I could transplant them to a 235, so that's not really money wasted. Oh well, it *was* a thrill to make the 216 live for a little while. 8o)
Found a running $500 235 not too far from you. Sounds like you might be able to haggle the price some too. Take cash, offer him less. Even if you have to take your own bellhousing, starter, gas, battery, etc...and run it on the floor...always see an engine run before you buy. Good luck. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/pts/3432526912.html Where's my coffee?
Thanks I saw that. Sadly, the kids are expecting Santa to bring them gifts so for the next few weeks all car related purchases are on hold. But don't worry, I've been dropping hints for what daddy wants for xmas. ;o)
Beautiful looking engine, shame about the crack. Couldn't you fill it with JB or silicone or something so you could get some use out of an otherwise good engine? Gas tank sealer? Just some possible suggestions. Good luck which ever way you go.
About the external crack: There is a DRUG STORE product called 'Liquid Glass'. Remove thermostat. Add liquid glass to radiator coolant. Cover radiator with cardboard, warm engine to operating temp. Reinstall thermostat, crack will seal in a short period of time (within a day) Change coolant in a couple of days...This is a guaranteed longtime fix.
I-man, The 216 is a good little motor but if you didnt change out the rear end for better gears then you would be limited on you hiway speeds to something like 45MPH. At least that is the case I had with my 41 chevy with a 216. Also, the 216 had spash oiling so not great fro longevity. You will be much happier with a later model 235 with full pressure oiling or a 250, 202, etc. Good luck. Paul
I agree, I'll be a whole lot happier with a 235. I just need to pull parts off the 216 that I intend to transfer over then figure out what I'm to do with the old engine. Maybe I should start pulling any salvagable parts off and sell off before hauling it to the scrap yard. Or is it even worth trying to sell "as is"?
Can you access the crack easily? If so, try pinning it. You may not need a new engine at all. http://www.r-f.com/lock_n_stitch_repair.asp
Seal the crack, drive it 'til it drops then install a 235. It's paid for so get your moneys worth. Save your money for other things in the meantime.