I don't say much, but I do read every thing that gets posted here !! Keep up the good work. I am hoping to tackle mine here shortly !
Thanks! Here is an another small update.I rebuild the door hinges from drivers side too and made some test fitting.I think it needs some adjusting,but its a lot better than it was before. I guess next step is to take the door for the sandblaster.I am not going to stretch the door skin with sandblasting,but blasting the door frame could make it easier to spot how much i have to replace of the door frame.There is pinholes here and there on the frame.. I check out the door latch and looks like the springs are busted,does anyone know who sells new latch springs? I think i forget the bearclaws with doors,50'-51' latches should be just fine after new springs and strikers.
Another update: After sandblasting the door frames bottom looks like its shot with a 12 gauge shotgun: Rolling,rolling,rolling...The beadroller fence came handy with this one.I cut off a sample piece from the door bottom and copied the pattern. The replacement bottom part is tackwelded... And completed.. Well,almost the bottom lips corners need some attention,but i thought its easier to work with them when the part of the door skin is cut off.I need to drill some drain holes too,those holes that are shown in the pic are for door frame inner structure spotwelds,but i am going to weld them too when the door skin is gone. The door skin patch have some surface rust and the plan is to remove with it citric acid.I need to build a tank for that job first..
Thanks guys! Just wondering,could anyone help me a bit.The window tracks/channels are gone from the doors.I know that the one channel is integrated with the vent window post,but i have no clue what the another one is supposed to look like.So could anyone snap a pic from inside of the door,from that that side where the door latch is?
Nice work on the door bottoms. There wasn't a channel per se originally, just fuzzy strips on either side of the glass. Instead of stock fuzzies, I'm using channel I bought from Restoration Specialties... http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ If you want to go the same route I can get you specs and part numbers. Took me a long time to figure it all out, I talked to a guy at Restoration Specialties (Mike? I think?) who really helped me get it straight in my feeble brain.
Okey,thanks for the info.There was something cut off from the inside of door,from latch side.So i figured out that was for window channel or something like that.And yes,i like to see the specs of that channel.Thank you guys!
I had somehow skipped over the page where you used one of the pieces I sent. Glad to see it put to good use, your patch looks great. It was a shame to cut up a tudor, but we're getting a lot of use out of the parts. I'm probably 3 or 4 weeks away from working on my car again, but at least I'm starting to feel like I want to get back at it.
Thanks! I think using that donor piece was the only way to fix it.So thanks again for making that repair a lot easier. I guess only hard part with the sheetmetal work is that damn quarter panel.I bought a replacement piece for that and if everything goes fine,i should have it after 8 weeks.It takes some time to get it,but i can work with the smaller things before that. Good to hear that you are getting motivated with your shoebox again.Some times is just good to have a small break.
Thanks! That looks pretty cool ride. Thanks man. I've done some progress,but i havent updated this thread for a while. I got the corner piece done and repaired the inner structure too for the door. The corner patch was curvy in 2 direction and shrinker/stretcher was good tool for that job. Now i am working with the skin patch,i've done most of the welding but i have to do some dolly/hammer job.There was a slight dent on the top of the door skin and that caused a little oil canning,so there will be some job to do...
Hey buddy, nice to see some progress! doors sometimes are not easy to fix, but after all you did on the shoebox i know you make 'em look fine again! saw your pic at the 'mug shot-thread', cheers! Carsten
Thats how mine was. It all welded fine then bam, after fixing a dent it was a big ol oil can. It pisses me off when that happens.
Thanks Carsten,i guess i can figure that door mess out.Thats an old pic taken in Florida few yrs ago,nowadays i look like something between santa claus and caveman Yeah,thats really annoying thing.There was a slight dent what causes that oil canning.It was hard to spot,that door skin looks pretty decent in that pic. But hammering and shrinking disc helped with the oil canning.Now i have to hammer/pull the rest of that dent out. Its just pretty nasty place to hammer it out because the door frame is on the way.I think i borrow a stud welder from friends of mine.They are two brothers who have an autobodyshop.I think i have to borrow it at weekend,after working hrs.Its good to have 40 yrs old friends,who have been in industry over 20 yrs.Those guys knows their shit
Making the skin patch on the door can be a bit of a challenge, but with your skills, it will be no problem at all. Still looking good!
Well,that wasnt a big success.I had to start it all over,the dent that was above the patch area just turned the whole skin something that military persons in states call FUBAR. Sometimes things just wont go like in the movies,but thats just sheetmetal.Not end of the world..
SNAFU is another useful military slang word.Luckily that is going on usually at my work instead of garage Well,i guess i dont get much done at this weekend.At tomorrow is Kopteri magazine's 20th birthday party,so i guess i'll grab few cold ones in there. So i think that i am not really functional at sunday,but we'll see..
I used the screw knocker on my Crestliner doors. It got a couple out, boogered the slot on a couple but mostly, it broke loose the welded-in nuts for the door hinge screws, so its NOT recommended. I ended up drilling out most of the screws so I recommend drilling them all out and you will have the nuts still in place