I'm fishing here. my doors need full skins. anybody out there know of a donor car (roof panel maybe) that has matching contour to the orignal doors? I can put the bead on the bottom, just not sure if I'm THAT proficient with my china freight english wheel. I'd just pull a template and go on a junkyard fishing expedition, but my door skins are TOAST from a house fire followed by bad lower patch job last go around and I can't get a reliable template. thanks
Don't get me wrong..I'm not trying to be a wise-ass, but do you realize that there are a number of people that sell full skin patch panels?
I was fortunate in that my doors were close to perfect but I can't think of any late model sheet metal that would have the correct contour..not that there might be something out there. Grab your old trusty tape measure and stroll through your local wrecking yard or save time and order new skins. HRP
Not exactly an answer to your question. But I bought my skins for Howells and they're were good quality.
32-4 pickup door skins have a very shallow crown. I would think that most modern car roofs would be a great match for a skin. By the time you get done rolling the bead on the bottom, tipping the edges, and welding the thing on, it will be so "manipulated" that the thing will fit fine. All these guys saying to buy the $100-and-up skins should try to do it themselves first. I bet most anyone can get a roof skin for free if they ask around. Metalshaping is FUN!
Roof skins from late model cars seem paper thin. Can they be metalworked and welded like older tin? In my neck of the woods, there are no junkyards to obtain old tin from.
I also need skins, but I am going to build them all from NEW 19 ga. I have made the dies to run the beads in a friends pullmax. The bottom 2-3 inches are gone on mine. With that being said can anyone tell me if the contour (front/back and top/bottom) is the same as a model A. If so that would be great I have some laying around I can get patterns off of. Thanks Luke
for those who are considering makeing your own, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=409078&page=18
Over the years I've done several pus and have used Howells and Waldens. If I ever do it again I would go back to Walden. Cost more but really worked out good.
That makes sense what you're saying. I love nothing more then learning something new and making things. But in my case by the time I found a roof that would work and then doing all the work to make them fit, I'd have the Howell's skins completely installed and done. And in my case sometimes time is worth more then money. Just my 2 cents.
In my opinion they are too thin. More importantly most are made of HSLA steel.(high strength, low alloy) Hard, not very malleable. A poor match to our old stuff. New sheet is just not that expensive.
Do model A doors have the same contour as 32-34? I just need to make the contour gauges and my 34 doors are too bad.
Remember neither Howell , Wolf or Walden put in the reveal or "bead" around the lower hinge....should be there....my 2 cents..
Like tinbener said.... I read on the internet (so it MUST be true) that most cars made since the 90s are made with a metal alloy that doesn't lend itself to welding very well and is difficult to re-contour because it is thinner but harder. I would use new metal, either repro panels or new sheet steel.
If you find any 70's Mopar roofs out there it'll work just fine..beautiful draw quality material. Had the chance to switch up hood skins on a 71 Dart GT..used the non GT flat hood skin for fabbing up some repair panels...worked slick..and, oh how many guys have used "late model" wagon roofs to fill there soft tops?...I've hammer welded them in..no problem.
thanks for everyone's comments. would that I could afford walden panels! I've looked at both wolf and howells. I just figured i could find something close and fiddle with it and if it didnt' work punt and order them. my bead roller is my new favorite toy and this seemed like a good excuse to use it. Plus I'm poor/cheap. in case anyone else is wondering an early mustang roof works great on a 35/36 ford roof--not that those are plentiful anymore.
Even a crappy English wheel is an English wheel! Fresh metal and a wheel and some time playing will get you what you want...and you'll learn how to use a good tool! There are lots of good metal shaping sites with really good advice for beginners, and lots of great shapers here on the hamb..
Can someone post a close-up picture of this bead? I too am finishing my doors now, so this would be much appreciated. I want to get it right. Thanks.
i picked up a pair of semi truck doors from the 60s for free they are steel and have the lower bead its a little bigger so will make a good skin. not sure what they came off but was told several brands used the same door, they have the right shape as well. no rivets either, the skins i've seen are good but tend to be a little flat. i will get to this sometime this winter if they work good i will do a tech thread,,,,Dave
Thank you! That's awesome...I don't think that I've ever seen that detail on any 32-34 truck. Is that detail only applicable to the lower hinges? Or is it supposed to be on the uppers as well?
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