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Projects my '53 Chevy truck project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 65standard, Sep 25, 2011.

  1. Marten
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Marten
    Member

    No only the glasses itself looks to modern for me.
    And don't loose the chrome rings indeed!
     
  2. pottsie454
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pottsie454
    Member

    One of the best builds I've seen. Very talented work. I hope to get to that level one day. Very inspirational!


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  3. servi53
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 338

    servi53
    Member

    awesome fab and use of hemi, dig it
     
  4. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    nice fab work dude
     
  5. Mr. Chevrolet
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 16

    Mr. Chevrolet
    Member
    from Canada

    What a beautiful job, the truck looks amazing. The lines flow very nice. How did you form that center piece for the grill bar?
     
  6. PKap
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 593

    PKap
    Member
    from Alberta

    Really love the new front end. Are you planning on filling the hood seam? Or will you peak the center? Excellent continuity on the design.
     
  7. MAD HAT RODDER
    Joined: Feb 24, 2012
    Posts: 4

    MAD HAT RODDER
    Member
    from Hooper Ut

    WOW!! i'm new here. stumbled on your build 3 days ago. been checkin it out ever since DAMB your GOOD!! I started a 53 myself a few months ago. just have the frame blasted and a Heidt front susp. for now. will start boxing soon. your metal work is PURE ART!! thanks for posting it. MAD HAT RODDER Hooper UT.
     
  8. not much progress, but i did get the front fenders reformed to look like 1949 ford fenders. i am filling in the center seam on the hood for that smooth look.

    as for the center bar, i asked the guy at work to form these for me. he is the expert with rolling and brake forming. i didn't see him form them, but i imagine he put a small radius in the middle of the part and then put the brake in the middle of the radius. that is what i would have done if he refused to make them for me.

    here you can see where i am welding up the seam 1" at a time. it is a slow process, but it lets me control the warpage by working it as i weld.
    [​IMG]

    reworking the new fenders
    [​IMG]

    these are the pieces i had formed to make the 1949 ford style center bar.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. motoandy
    Joined: Sep 19, 2007
    Posts: 3,334

    motoandy
    Member
    from MB, SC

    Nice work man,
     
  10. PKap
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 593

    PKap
    Member
    from Alberta

    Like the hood, looks really good and have been planning to do the same on mine, but with a peak. Did you weld the original two pc hood seam together under the filler strip? I have seen guys cut out the original seam and fill the gap, and I have seen others weld a strip over the joint. I think the first option would look the best from below, but I am worried about warping the hood too much. I was think that the second option would be more stable,and easier to keep it straight. What did you do?
     
  11. I added a 16ga. strip in the recess that was under the original hood molding. I decided not to cut out the center beforehand. I wanted to leave the original seam joint in the middle. Keeping the center ridge on the underside is like an under hood brace and less chance of the hood oil canning.
     
  12. flyboys101
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 76

    flyboys101
    Member
    from nj

    That was most enjoyable. Want to see more! Absolutely love the grill. Actually all the mods are great. Wish I had that talent.
     
  13. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    I just went through the entire build. You do some amazing metalwork, and very close attention to detail.
     
  14. orula
    Joined: May 12, 2010
    Posts: 437

    orula
    Member

    OVERTIME, AMAZING, SPECTACULAR :eek::eek::eek: !!!!


    Congratulations
     
  15. Sexy. :eek:
     
  16. What brakes are you going to use to stop that monster? Awesome build!
     
  17. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    WOW....Thats it!
     
  18. Front brakes are from R1 concepts 11" cross drilled rotors and posi-quiet pads for a 1970 chevelle.
    Rear brakes are stock big Ford 11" drums for a 1980 F-100.
    The master is a stock 1969 Z/28 manual disc/drum unit.

    Thanks for all the good words.
     
  19. coralhead
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 4

    coralhead
    Member
    from S. Indiana

    Tony, nice work. always like to check in and see how it is coming along.
     
  20. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,302

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    Cool project. Subscribed and staying tuned for the rest of the story.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  21. finished the metal work on the left front fender. mated it to the modified inner fender skirt.

    here you can see the huge scallope on the inner fender. this was needed to clear the Hemi. also trimmed and beaded the lower area to clear the Heidt's front suspension.
    [​IMG]

    the stock grill opening was completely reworked. the lower part was cut off, then finished so i could bolt it up to the 1949 Ford valance panel. the square opening was lowered and curved to fit the modified 1949 Ford grill surround.
    [​IMG]

    these reproduction fenders were two piece fenders spot welded together. i welded it up to make it one piece like it should have been.
    [​IMG]

    now i can bolt it back on and finish mating it to the Ford valance. then off to the right fender.
     
  22. grm61
    Joined: Oct 19, 2009
    Posts: 178

    grm61
    Member
    from Washington

    Full size Jeep wagoneers 74 and newer, had the Dana 44, 6 on 5.5
     
  23. left front fender complete and fitted up. now off to the right fender.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  24. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    Damn fine build thread. You've done a TON of high end fab work on this thing. I love this truck.
     
  25. taking a small break from the front sheet metal. i decided to look at the door latches. i bought some autoloc double bear claw (bear jaw) latches.

    starting with the door jamb.

    [​IMG]

    i then cut out the old jamb to install the new cage nut.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    here is the old and the new side by side.

    [​IMG]

    here is the new welded in and a small filler piece needed to complete the jamb.

    [​IMG]

    welded up, just need to clean up the corners with my dremel.

    [​IMG]

    next, fitting the latch to the door.

    [​IMG]

    and a quick test of the fitment and operation of the new setup.

    [​IMG]

    i still need to add filler pieces to the door to make it all look factory original. to be continued....
     
  26. Strange Agent
    Joined: Sep 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,879

    Strange Agent
    Member
    from Ponder, TX

    This thing is rad!
     
  27. shoebox50
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 662

    shoebox50
    Member

  28. back on the door latch.

    i cleaned up the jamb and finished the door. now i need to connect the inner door handle to the latch. needs to be lengthened about 3/4". now off to the other side...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    new direction, back on the seat back.

    Even though i recovered the seat back, I still didn't like the bounce, noise, and feel of the coil springs.

    For the back, I ordered medium density foam and used 3/4" dryplywood. i removed the uphostery from the seat and then traced the metal frame on the plywood. then cut the 6 mounting tabs off the steel frame and screwed them to the plywood backer.

    test fitting here looks good.
    [​IMG]

    then layed the seat frame to the foam block and traced it out. here you can see where i cut out the 6 mounting tabs off the frame.
    [​IMG]

    then glued the foam to the plywood backer. once together, i trimmed the foam even closer to the final shape.
    [​IMG]

    then i installed the seat back in the truck so i could test the feel. i started to carve the foam while it was inside the truck. i made some reference lines and started chipping away at the foam. what a mess.

    [​IMG]

    i removed the seat back to carve up the lower part along the seat bottom.
    [​IMG]

    i installed it again to test the feel. i'm still not there yet. maybe i need to trim the foam another 1/2" to get the seat a little farther back still. i'm trying to get my leg and arm reach just perfect for my size. i want my legs just a little straighter to be perfectly comfortable in the truck.
     
  29. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Looks damn nice...Those door jambs are killer!
     

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