What are the signs of a cracked head or bad head gasket. The problem I'm having is coolant keeps going into the catch can. I'm not over filling the radiator, replaced the radiator cap twice-1" neck. No water in oil. Soooooo?
For me, cracked block caused water to be thrown out when the motor was put under load. It ran fine, idled and ran without overheating until I ran it harder. Then the exhaust blew the water out. Motor wasn't really all that hot but water exited the radiator quickly. The spark plugs from the cylinders that had the cracks were clean from the water steam cleaning them. Neal
When you say you're not overfilling the radiator, how close to the top are you filling it? In a cooling system without a coolant recovery system, the system will piss out whatever it needs to when it gets to operating temperature, and of course when it cools down there will be some air in the radiator. These systems, when there are no leaks, are basically self-leveling. Does the water level continue to go down if you don't "top it off"? If not, then I wouldn't add anything to it, and just keep a close eye on the level. On my Chrysler, the water level in the radiator is about two inches down from the top when it's cold, and never gets any lower.
I've tried to keep the water level just above the coils. But coolant is still going into the catch can. What's the hottest it can get before any damage will occur. It never overheats as long as there coolant in it. And would the problem show up more likely with in town driving or open road long drives at speed? I have not seen any moisture coming out the exhaust except when first started, until it's warmed up. I need to replace the lower hoses because they are old, so I really need some directions before I dump the coolant. I live in the Indy area, should I pull the thermostats? The car does not have a heater so that's not an issue.
From my experience with bad head gaskets or cracked blocks, put the engine under load and see if the antifreeze blows out of the radiator. If the coolant blows out under normal operating conditions or when the rpm's are high, you probably have other problems. Other problems could be you are overfilling the radiator, the radiator is plugged up, or who knows what. Neal
they make a tool to check for combustion gasses in the Radiator. sold at auto parts stores. I use one I picked up from Snap On but a parts store one will do the trick. it sucks the air from the radiator spout while running. the tool holds a blue fluid that will turn yellow if exhaust gas is present. just ask for the Head gasket checking tool. most part store guy's should know what you mean. pretty easy tool to use. good luck.
The temps here are in the 40s and the engine doesn't get above 100 now - I'm pretty sure there are stats in it, but? Where should I start - dump the coolant and pull the stats, or should I do something first before dumping the coolant?
Make sure there is stats in it, as running it at 100* is REAL bad for a engine. Needs to run at 180* or so to boil off any shit in the oil.
if you're not getting up to temp your thermostat may be stuck open, I'd start with a new thermostat and go from there
Signs of a cracked head or blown head gasket: 1. Water vapor in exhaust. 2. Spark plug wet with water droplets. 3. Water in engine oil. 4. Loss of compression. 5. Loss of coolant (other than through overflow tube). 6. Water vapor from engine breather tube. 7. Piston tops washed clean. 8. Coolant blows out through the radiator inlet when the engine is revved, or a huge amount of air bubbles out. Coolant in the catch can is not a problem unto itself. Why do you think they invented catch cans in the first place. These radiators don't like being overfilled.
This is what I justed did-took a 15 mile drive straight open highway at 55-60, mid 40s outside and the car ran about 135 both sides. Coolant just above the coils. Pulled into garage engine running checked catch can and it had about a pint of coolant in it plus bubbles coming from the hose. Does the bubbles mean anything? What else should I look at? No steam from exhaust or engine vent tube, no water in oil. Ideas?
Sounds to me like you've got a catch can, with a hose from the overflow tube to the catch can, and the end of the hose is submerged in the coolant that has overflowed. right? And if there are bubbles coming out of the end of the overflow tube that is submerged, seems to me you're pumping air into the cooling system somewhere. At 135 degrees, you're nowhere close to boiling the coolant, so I'd suspect you do have a leaky head gasket or crack somewhere.
Would there be another test to perform to confirm this short of pulling the heads. And is there any decent additive products out there that may cure the problem. Thanks
I know you said you changed the radiator cap, but I'd investigate whether the cap was sealing and holding pressure. What's the rating on the cap? You should be running a 13lb cap. The older flatheads ran much lower pressures (like 3-5 lbs). You're definitely running cool at highway speeds, but what about local driving or idling temps? My bet is the car has no thermostats. Install a new pair of 180 thermostats and eliminate that variable. How are you checking for water in the engine oil? If water is going into the engine oil, it takes a while for the oil to turn into that chocolate milkshake color. The water will first settle to the bottom of the pan, under the windage tray where it doesn't get whipped up that much. I'd drain the engine oil and pay close attention when you remove the drain plug. See if water comes out first.
I've learned thermostats are a must just to slow down the water flow if nothing else. Were it me having this problem I'd pull both out and take them to the Kitchen. Grab a candy thermometer and a pan of water. Stick all 3 in and boil the water while watching for the Stats to open and at what temp they do. That will tell you yes or no if they are working correctly. Take the cap to a Rad Shop and have them pressure test it. If all 3 items check out fine next I'd do a pressure test on the motor at operating temp. That's using a pressure pump at the Rad cap point and all together. If it don't hold 4-6lbs. pressure you have a problem under a head. Also,,,Stock Flathead water pumps will "NOT" hold 13 lbs of pressure. At least I've not had any that would. You may be creating your own problem. The Wizzard
Wizz: You don't want to boil the water. Water boils at 212F which is already beyond the opening temps. You want to gradually increase the temps below boiling. I misspoke about the cap pressure. Seven (7) lbs, not 13, wrong car.
Ya, sometimes my Fingers don't put down all that's in my Head. Heat water while watching the Stats with water headed towards Boil and when they start to open you can stop heating the water. Main thing is to see what and when the Stats are doing. Also good he knows the Stock 50 Rad has a 1" deep neck and that a letter model 3/4" cap will go on even though it won't seal at all. When all things are right you don't need a recovery tank. Just my opinyon there, The Wizzard
Thanks guys - this is a '50 - 4# cap w/ 1" neck - sealing good. I've bought a second cap a few weeks ago just in case I had a "bad" one - made in Mexico shit!! Checking "oil in water" by looking at the dip stick - before and after running the engine - is this not good enough?
Dip stick won't tell you. If there's water, it's at the bottom and won't stick to the stick anyway. I once drained a pan and at least a pint of water came out first and the oil was not milky.
Sounds like a pressure test is next with the complete system in tact. It won't tell you where a leak is if it's internal but it will tell you if you need to lift a head or not. The Wizzard
Yes. But maybe not what you need to know. Do you have Alum. Heads on the car and if so were they new when installed? I'd still do a Rad pressure test first.
I had a similar problem I fought for a long time I could drive the car for hours at slower speeds (50-60 MPH) and it would be fine but if I ran it harder than about 65-70 MPH, after about 10 minutes I would smell it pushing coolant out then it would run hot. I could stop put about a gallon or less back in it and it would go for hours again as long as I ran it under about 65 MPH. Here is what I finally did. Run the motor for a few minutes to get some temp in it. Then I removed the belt from waterpumps and removed top hoses and let the water level stay just below the outlet in the heads. Then start and run the engine watching for bubbles and or the water level to rise when revving it up. On mine when I revved the engine it would rise and push a little water out the thermostat housing on one side. I pulled that head and even though I really couldn't see where it was bad I think it must have just had a very slight leak that was letting combustion gas/pressure by the gasket and into the cooling system. I replaced the head gasket on that bank and never had the problem again.
So is it fair to say if you had re torqued all your head bolts it may have cured your problem for a while? Would you suggest BLUDICE try it? The Wizzard
I had already retorqued them a couple times previous to that, but it didn't cure it. Like I said I had fought this for a long time. Pressure test or leakdown didn't show anything either. However it certainly would be worth a shot, if he hasn't already done that.
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