hey all, Just seeing if any one has driven about with a 2 speed powerflite auto and how you think they go in a daily driver? I have one in my australian desoto diplomat but am unable to drive it as yet. just thinking of other oppsitions. long way to go I know..
While the early "Torqueflite" with it's 3 speeds is "better" that old 2 speed powerflite is pretty darn tough... 2 speeds just never seem like enough! They work well in an otherwise stock car.
Cheers mate was also wondering if you know how the stock running gear goes for more highway speed. only got it recently so not even sure what the diff is yet but running a 250 ci flathead with powerflite 2 speed.
Hmm it looks more like a '54 - the Kiwi 55 De Soto's looked different to that by quite a bit. The flathead ones seemed to be prone to burning exhaust valves from memory. And we never broke a Powerflite in the V8 models - even with our driving style placing a bit of an ask of them!
Oh wow, really?? a 250 flathead 6. huh?? Well, all my experience driving these cars (mostly Dodge & Chryslers 52 - 57) has been with Hemi V-8's hooked to Torqueflites & Powerflites As for those cars, yes Hi Way speeds are fine. With the six I just do not know.
I made a business trip to Nicarauga last year and i sa one of these sitting in the city. Appeared solid but i did not have time to check it out.
Nah its all no good every last bit of it..... You should just sell it to me lol (Gorgeous I love it! If you ever want to sell the Bar Im first in Line )
Ever consider a newer Torqueflite? Less weight and will make the car accelerate quicker on the lower end. With all that weight, it could make that six a lot easier to live with.
The flathead 6 is a pretty indestructable mill, so is the 2 speed powerrflite. You can still get bits from the US for them. If your'e not lining up Commode-doors at the lights, that stock combination is plenty good for a daily driver. Just bolt that grille in real tight, someone may just swipe that pretty thing! Put it on LPG if the price of petrol worries you. The Australian Dodge/desoto/Plymouth only came out with a 6 until '57.
i drove a 59 aussie chrysler royal recently and was suprised! it was a 250 flathead 6 with pushbutton auto! cruized at 50-60mph with eez! pulled up any hills quite well 2! was compearable with my mates single spinner with a sidevalve and another mates customline with a 302 clevo was only 25 percent better! the only mod the chrysler had was a stromberg carb off a 253 holden v8 and a decent coil!
It depends on what you consider "daily driver". Around town, they're not bad. A little sluggish off the line compared to a more modern auto like a TF. On the highway, you'll be hankerin' for another gear. Personally, I'd do a 904 swap if it were my car.
My '57 Plymouth was a 230 Flathead 6 with a Powerflite. Around town was no issues. And even highway speeds she ran pretty good. The RPMs were a bit high at 60mph+. She had like 3.91 rear gears or something however. But she definitley could keep up with traffic. And yes the exhuast valves do seem to be a common failing point..in my experience the #5 cylinder is always to blame! Flatheads have a tendency to form cracks on the exhuast manifold around #5/#6 cylinders for some reason.
The Australians used the 1954 body moulds for a number of years as they transferrred their assembly operations from CKD packs ex Canada to being a fully self built operation - The Ap 1-3 series cars starting in '57 were based on the 54 body with Aussie guards and then they morfed into the Aussie based Valiants in the early 60's. The 55-56 Aussie Moopars were based on the 54 shell with lucas electrics and english brakes to allow for a higher British Isles component make up of the cars to meet the strict import regulations at the time. Your '55 DESOTO is based on the 1954 Export model Desoto Diplomat. The best hop up you can do for the car is to lift the diff ratio's. They can handle a lift to 3.23 or even 3;1 ratios's - the cars were designed to run on old country roads and were geared accordingly - with our newer roads and motorway systems its good to drop the engine revs and sdave on some gas while still staying up with the traffic flow. The Powerflytes are not the fastest box yet they are sturdy and will last a life time. The long block 6 has a great torque curve. None of it will make it a fast hot car but as an example of earlier motoring you can hold your head high and stay up with the big boys on the open road
Yeah thats the wifes. good solid little austin. only embarising when they bring out ride on mowers that have more horses.
Millions of cars were made with 2 speed auto transmissions. In the fifties and sixties you had your choice of 4 on the floor, 3 on the tree or 2 in the glue ha ha. Chev Powerglide, Chrysler Powerflite, Fordomatic, Buick Dynaflow, Packard Ultramatic, every car maker offered one. The secret to getting by with only 2 speeds: the torque converter multiplies torque and in effect, acts as an extra gear ratio. That, and using a detuned engine with a broad powerband, one that pulls strong from 1000 RPMS up to 4500 or so. They were meant as a luxury feature, not a performance feature. When set up properly you couldn't hear the engine and you couldn't feel the transmission shift. It gave the effect of floating, or driving an electric car. If the engine and trans are working right you will have ample power for all normal driving, top speed about 85, cruising speed 60. The Powerflite is one of the last of its type to be introduced, and one of the best. Normally very reliable. The engine too is a workhorse. But it can fool you. Those old flathead sixes will seem to be running fine, decent oil pressure, no knocks or bangs, even though they are in an advanced state of wear. If the car seems excessively sluggish check the compression and do a tuneup. Normal compression, 110 to 120 PSI. Normal oil pressure 40 PSI @ 30 MPH. Will continue to run ok with compression as low as 80 or 90 but with reduced power as long as all cylinders are more or less the same. If performance and economy are down, compression and oil pressure are low, it is time to think about a rebuild. The engine is simple, not difficult or expensive to rebuild. Given the number used down under in cars, trucks, utes, and no doubt as stationary power plants and marine engines, and possibly in farm machinery (Massey used them in tractors and combines) not to mention military vehicles, there is a good chance you can still buy parts for them locally. What I am saying is, if the engine and trans are in good shape the car will turn in a fine performance and reasonable fuel economy (on the cheapest regular petrol) and have no trouble dealing with normal traffic. I could also point out, the car is already a bit of a hot rod. It combines the smaller, lighter body normally used for the American Plymouth, with the big engine normally used in the American Chrysler.
Cheers for the advice, I think I'll give her a red hot go at burstin into life and take her for a spin. I love the sound of the flathead 6's so I think I might just look at some twin exhaust and intake set ups. should make a nice family car.. keep the advice coming if you've gone down this path..
Didn't these engines have a sort of perforated tube inserted in the block behind the water pump? The intent was to distribute coolant more evenly throughout the block but with age they would corrode or plug up and the engine could develop hot-spots. The other tip I'd heard years ago was to adjust the valve lash a few thousandths looser than the factory specs. The idea was that if the engine did run a bit too hot it would help keep it from losing all the lash and trying to hold the valves a couple thousandths from fully closing.
Yes they have what is known as a water distribution tube that runs inside the block behind the water pump. They can be a pain in the butt to remove however its one of those necessities in a flat head Mopar - pull it and replace it and make sure you have anti corrosive additive and they last a long time. Some guys make them out of brass and repop stuff is out of steel. The steel ones are cheaper but do not last as long. The theory on them is that the water is directed onto the base of the valve guide to keep the engine cooler - if you run without it the engine never runs right - always having cooling issues etc.
The water distribution tube is absolutely necessary. Without it, all the cooling water goes from the water pump straight to the rad without circulating thru the engine. To tell if it is intact use a digital thermometer to read the temp of the engine. Or, touch the head as the engine warms up. If the front of the engine is cool and the back is hot, you have a problem with circulation. The temp of the front of the engine should be the same as the back. I wouldn't try to take the tube out unless you have to. They get stuck and are hard to remove without damage after they have been in there a few years. Some tubes were made of galvanized steel but some were made of brass. The brass ones seem to last forever. I have seen the brass ones in Canadian made car and truck engines, they are standard in marine engines. The water jackets can get full of mud and scale too. Flushing the cooling system helps. In severe cases you can remove the core plugs from the side of the engine, hose it out and put in new plugs.
[ Cheers rusty, was just wondering if any one has dimentions for these tubes?? are they longers in the 250's. probably.. if any one has one out of the block can you please let me know thier sizes. inlet circle size, boxed tube size and distance between holes, ect... jus in case I have to make one.
Thanks for that bit of Information on the Aussie DeSoto These all intrest me alot. I like Mopars and try to learn all I can about this era. MoParfinman
There's also a supplier here in SA who has got mechanical bits for these- Antique auto supplies in Wingfield. When you start scratching around you will find a lot of these Diplomats \ Kingsways \ Cranbrooks . Also, the first Chrysler Royals (up to 1960) used the same engines and trans. and various other parts are the same. I used to drive a Clark tug at the airport years ago and - you guessed it - it ran a Dodge flathead with a preselect auto box.
The tubes are still available if you need one. You don't need to replace it if the engine cools normally.
Found this recently still on the back of the car carrier that was transporting it, full of blackberry thorns. Been sitting along time. Cool just the same. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
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