Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Locate the "Poisonous Pinto" (IIRC) Hot Rod article on Joe Morgan's Pinto. It's probably in this thread already. It talks about doing it with mostly stock parts, but he added nitrous for drag racing. Figure out what turbo will work best for your conditions. I would think an air-to-water intercooler would be a sweet setup for a boat. We're talking EFI, and the last year for a TurboCoupe is '88. I'd ask on a turbo 2.3 specific forum such as turboford.org.

Here's the text of the article: http://pintopage.fordpinto.com/Poisonous Pinto.htm

 

It sure sounds like something screwy is going on and that you need to check everything related to the timing: accuracy, pointer, belt, pulleys, distributor, valve timing, etc(?). What's the off the chart timing if it's idling at 30*?

 

I set the timing back to 20 degrees...doesn't run as good and still pings under any load

 

just want to say i took my roadster to the race of gentlemen with my 2.3 and t-5 and dominated with this motor on the beach if you see the vids you will know what im talking about this motor runs awsome in this car and its pretty fast ..

 

Hey Clark, check to see if the vacuum advance is working. It could be stuck.

 

It's a Mallory mechanical advance. I can see the advance is working with the timing light. I'd be better off if thye advance was stuck. Biggest problem is it's getting too much timing at higher rpms.

I just don't understand why it runs best at Idle at 30 degrees of advance.

A friend thinks if the belt was off a tooth it would not be responcive.
Clark

 

Oh ok. I bought a pinto once that the belt had jumped on. It would run, but not very well. That would be easy to check, so maybe look at that.

 

Digging through 2.3 collection - factory dome pistons, long tube header, etc. - and have to have some help i.d. couple bellhousing - comparing to 2.3 pinto German trans bellhousing -

D12A-6394-BC - smaller center hole / no hole for shifter rod to go into bell / smaller engine locating dowels - since 1971 part # - 1.6 w/ english trans?

D12A-6394-AD - same as 2.3 except for smaller engine locating dowel - 2.0 w/ german trans?

Thanks for any help! Tony

 

Here's a video I did making my own manifold for a 2.3....enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZSbqxyUaBM

 

Got a link to specifics on the GM HEI igniter for 2.3s?

 

How to wire a duraspark distributor to a GM HEI ignitor

 

how come all this pinto stuff stays up but i post my roadster pickup with a duratec and it gets deleted. wheres the cut off ?

 

Maybe ask in the Questions & Suggestions subforum?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=6

 

Almost all of the EAO 2.0 stuff seems to start with a D1FZ and the others are D4, D5, D6 and D9 also the housing assy for 73-79 is a 6392. So maybe after 1979.


Another question:
The EAO 2.0 and the lima 2.3 flywheel will NOT interchange right?. I think something about the bolt pattern.
All the aftermarket books are showing that the flywheel I have is for a 2.3 (by ring gear size) and I matched it up to the flexplate that came off the motor. It has the same amount of teeth, same OD, crank bolt holes line up and the center hole ID is the same.

I'm still kind of shocked how the aftermarket parts books are wrong A LOT and steer you in the wrong direction for the EAO 2.0 stuff.

 

Well, since this is BTTT i'll ask a question.
My 2.0 is playing on me. It used to go rather good, with lotsa acceleration, now its a SLUG!
It feels like im driving with the handbrake on, and sometime while accelerating it would get back to normal scaring the shit outta me, but then as soon as i leave the throttle it gets back to slug status.
I repaired all vacuum leaks, re-did distribution belt, pulleys, tensioner, waterpumps, changed points, rotor, cap, pretty much anything changable has been changed, minus the plugs, that might be a little proven from when i tried to run on 4 carbs.
Any idea?

 

I'd check the timing belt, and all the timing closely.

 

Its been done really, while re-doin the distribution. Everything was put back to exact factory spcs, but problem persists.
What puzzles me really is the fact that the problem disappears sometimes on acceleration but gets back as soon as i leave the throttle...
Could carbon build up cause this?

 

bonez, what distributor/ignition system are you using? The stock Bosch distributor? Mallory? or?

 

Yep, bosh dizzy with vacuum advance and a weber duble barrel dgav 32/36.

 

The 2.0 EAO is real picky when it comes to ignition, make sure that the shaft in the distributor doesn't wobble, if you can wobble it by hand your waisting time. If you distributor is good in that respect good points, and condensor is a must. Set the points gap at .017" then set the plugs at .025". Make sure you have good plug wires, run it when it's dark out (I chased ignition problem on my 2.0, and found all the plug wires were arcing to the chrome valve cover I had while I had it running when it was dark out). They don't like cheap ignition parts.

 

Thaaank you
Will do all this and let you know.
Points n condenser, wires, carb rebuild etc... are basically new, with about 2k kilometers, but gaps are probably off from your specs, so i really hope thats the problem.

About the carbon buildup, you suggest the old water at high idle trick? Or additives in the tank?

 

When I ran a 2.0 I checked the points gap every week to keep it running good, and replace the plugs at every oil change 3,000 miles. I ran either Motorcraft, or Autolite plugs, they worked the best (use the old std plugs, not platnum, or other type). Then I put a Mallory Unilite distributor with a Mallory Hyfire ignition box, and a Mallory coil. The only problem I had with the unilite was that it kept burning through the center of the rotor to the distributor shaft (had to always keep a couple of spare rotors in the glove box).

 

Right, i checkt the gaps on points and plugs, and both were off, the spark plugs had a .031" gap while the points were .025"
I checkt the factory specs on my manual just for shits n giggles as the motor is a 205 block thats 20 years newer than the car its in. But anyway, manual says points should be .025" which equal 0.635mm and plugs 0.64mm or something.
Havent tried drivin it yet as im home sick but started right up and seems to idle better. If i feel better tomo ill take it for a spin.

Oh btw, plugs electrodes were WHITE!! Must be the timing as i tuned the carb myself, and really theres no way of fuckin up with those dgav carbs. At least not as much to cause such a bright white plug.

 

The .025" on the points, and .031" plug gap is way too much (especially on the points). Close up the points to .017", and the plugs at .025". When I used to race with the stock distributor the .017", and .025" gave the most power. The pump gas these days doesn't color the plugs like it used to 20+ years ago.

 

Used the car yesterday, theres an obvious improvment on acceleration while at speed, like in 3rd and 4th gear, but gettin there from idle is a mule, and its still not optimal
Its not the clutch if youre wondering as doesnt get the revs up.

 

Is the mechanical, and vacuum advance working properly, not stuck, sticking, or hard spots?

 

Any easy way to check it? Im not an expert engine guy

 

Question still stands, but just wanted to say that engine performance improved in the last couple days. I kno it sounds weird but it really did. Still cant smoke the tires, which was real easy when it worked properly.

Same old weird shit that only happens to me i guess..

 

I'd try the water at an high idle, that seems to work best to get any carbon out, and see how she does. This is one of those times I wish I could get to look at it in person.

 

I just "noticed" the empty 300 with C4 in the SDRA chassis, in the opposite corner of the garage from the built 2.3 next to the cut pile for the DB coupe frame. Had to think.... Why not?

What would it take to hook the 2.3 to the C4? I have a bell housing that a swap meet vendor "thought" was for this match. How do I verify? What else do I need, and where would I find it?